1x10 converts

[Steven Knoetze (sk27)]

They are going to be available in black but any colour is available for an added fee of R50 - this will just be in the meantime until the business gets going and we can expand the anodising side.

 

40T and 42T rear cogs will be in production before the end of the year so we will be supplying them too for a really affordable price.

 

Whose design will you working off of for the NW and more specifically the cassette ring?

[peds]

Any feedback on the Rapide NW?

 

I have a Rapide 36T on my bike, no issues ever. No chain drop either. Highly recommend it for the price I didn't see anything better.

[Kitted]

https://www.bikehub.co.za/classifieds/105487-kitted-wonderring-nw-chanrings/

[dalem44]

 

'dalem44', on 26 Aug 2014 - 5:07 PM, said:

They are going to be available in black but any colour is available for an added fee of R50 - this will just be in the meantime until the business gets going and we can expand the anodising side.

 

40T and 42T rear cogs will be in production before the end of the year so we will be supplying them too for a really affordable price.

Whose design will you working off of for the NW and more specifically the cassette ring? 

 

Hi Steven,

 

We have had our own designs done. 

The 40T and 42T will be both Sram and Shimano compatible so we have taken a page out of Oneup's book on that one. Besides that, we have our own designs and prefer to have a unique item as opposed to a "copy"

[Steven Knoetze (sk27)]

Not if you run the Rapide ones, that base is thicker to allow you to use standard bolts

It is because of the use of the normal bolts that I decided against the Rapide ring, it weights nearly double any of the other NW rings.

The new Kitted Wonderring is looking tempting though..........

BTW this is the chain guide I made as I am using a Lee Daisy ring which utilizes longer teeth as oppsed to the NW teeth. With a standard derailleur it was jumping off when even seeing a bump in the trail.

Now I have no problems, I can actually hear the chain being saved from numerous drops while riding.

[NotSoBigBen]

In my experience if you use a guide you might as well use a 'normal' chainring.

[Hairy]

In my experience if you use a guide you might as well use a 'normal' chainring.

Yip, or at least a std ss chain ring

[Brian Fantana]

In my experience if you use a guide you might as well use a 'normal' chainring.

 

+1.  In my opinion the biggest advantage of 1X drivetrain (when using NW chainring and clutch RD), is the silence that comes with it.  No guides or an FD that can cause irritating sounds while your are going over rocks and roots.

[Thermophage]

So I just converted to 1x9 (soon to be 1x10) with the RaceFace NW 32T up front.

By bike (Spez Enduro) was running 2x9 and I replaced both up front with the 32T in the outer chainring posi (because thats where it fits...).

Anyhoo, I don't really like how offset the chainline is when in the largest sprocket on the cassette. 

Now I have Googled my butt of and figure i could maybe do two things to assist in straightening it (well...in this case centering it more on the cassette as I realise it has to be offset to some degree).

1: Spacers on BB (although I'm pretty sure I have none to remove at this point); or

2: spacers between the crank arms and chainring...a little harder to find info about but seems it's been done.

 

So my question...has anyone ever experienced a similar problem and found a solution for it?

I see chainring spacers sold overseas but on no RSA websites (although the correct size washer from Builders may do the same?).

 

Anyway, any comment would be appreciated

[Motard660]

Also converted my one bike to a 1x10 setup and used initially the standard 32 XT chain ring with a chain guard. What a lot of hogwash as the chain still jump off and get tangled into the chain guard act. Eventually with one ride the chain guard broke and I decided to use a proper chain ring (think it is called narrow wide or something). No more chain coming of, no more chain guard and that on a normal XT derailer (without clutch) at the back.

 

So yes, in my opinion the chain guard is a lot crap! Rather invest in a proper chain ring in the front and you will not have problems with a lot more fun!! 

[Kitted]

It is because of the use of the normal bolts that I decided against the Rapide ring, it weights nearly double any of the other NW rings.

The new Kitted Wonderring is looking tempting though..........

BTW this is the chain guide I made as I am using a Lee Daisy ring which utilizes longer teeth as oppsed to the NW teeth. With a standard derailleur it was jumping off when even seeing a bump in the trail.

Now I have no problems, I can actually hear the chain being saved from numerous drops while riding.

DSC_0098.JPG

DSC_0099.JPG

DSC_0100.JPG

HI Steven

 

We have had no issues with dropped chains. We have tested our chainrings on all types of terrains.

The nice thing about the NW tooth profile is no need for a chain guide. Obviously chain length is very important and making sure the setup is 100%

[Steven Knoetze (sk27)]

Also converted my one bike to a 1x10 setup and used initially the standard 32 XT chain ring with a chain guard. What a lot of hogwash as the chain still jump off and get tangled into the chain guard act. Eventually with one ride the chain guard broke and I decided to use a proper chain ring (think it is called narrow wide or something). No more chain coming of, no more chain guard and that on a normal XT derailer (without clutch) at the back.

 

So yes, in my opinion the chain guard is a lot crap! Rather invest in a proper chain ring in the front and you will not have problems with a lot more fun!!

Funnily enough Greg Minnar and Sam Hill, as the pictures show, have no guide related issues.

Might just be a setup issue. My home-made guide runs smooth and silent only ever hear it when the chain rattles up against it and that is not all that often.

[Kitted]

So I just converted to 1x9 (soon to be 1x10) with the RaceFace NW 32T up front.

By bike (Spez Enduro) was running 2x9 and I replaced both up front with the 32T in the outer chainring posi (because thats where it fits...).

Anyhoo, I don't really like how offset the chainline is when in the largest sprocket on the cassette. 

Now I have Googled my butt of and figure i could maybe do two things to assist in straightening it (well...in this case centering it more on the cassette as I realise it has to be offset to some degree).

1: Spacers on BB (although I'm pretty sure I have none to remove at this point); or

2: spacers between the crank arms and chainring...a little harder to find info about but seems it's been done.

 

So my question...has anyone ever experienced a similar problem and found a solution for it?

I see chainring spacers sold overseas but on no RSA websites (although the correct size washer from Builders may do the same?).

 

Anyway, any comment would be appreciated

We completely understand this issue that you are having and yes what you said is correct. On some of the crank arms you will have to use a spacer (washer from builders (which are available))

 

We have used these spacers on the new Shimano SLX/XT cranks with a 32t chainring just to assist with the line on the chain.

[Hairy]

Also converted my one bike to a 1x10 setup and used initially the standard 32 XT chain ring with a chain guard. What a lot of hogwash as the chain still jump off and get tangled into the chain guard act. Eventually with one ride the chain guard broke and I decided to use a proper chain ring (think it is called narrow wide or something). No more chain coming of, no more chain guard and that on a normal XT derailer (without clutch) at the back.

 

So yes, in my opinion the chain guard is a lot crap! Rather invest in a proper chain ring in the front and you will not have problems with a lot more fun!! 

was your chain length correct?

[Erroli8a8]

hi have just installed the 32t from Dalem, the unit looks good.

 

I have just one question, I have a 10 sprocket on the rear, were should the chain line be? gear 5 or 6? were would you put or remove the spacers? I have a 2.5mm spacer on the BB making the line on 5.

[Kitted]

hi have just installed the 32t from Dalem, the unit looks good.

 

I have just one question, I have a 10 sprocket on the rear, were should the chain line be? gear 5 or 6? were would you put or remove the spacers? I have a 2.5mm spacer on the BB making the line on 5.

5 is a good line as this will give you enough chain flex to accommodate changing up to 1st & 2nd and the same on 9 & 10