Will this conversion work? Another 1x10 question....

[Raydek]

I've been toying with the idea of going 1x10 on my 29er FS, so have now sat down and tried to figure our how/what can be done, I would like to make as few changes as possible to the bike..

 

My current set up is below, what I was thinking was removing the 13T from the cassette and adding one of these, http://www.wolftoothcycling.com/products/giant-cog-for-shimano or something similar. Then removing the smallest and biggest chainring (24T & 42T) and the front derailleur etc.. Will the standard chainring work?

 

From what I have read while searching, my long cage rear derailleur wont need to be changed, but would I need to do anything to the length of the chain? Or anything else that I have not thought of?

 

 

Rear Derailleur: SHIMANO XT LONG CAGE 10-SPEED

Crankset: SHIMANO M552 42-32-24T

BB: SHIMANO

Cassette: SHIMANO SLX 11,13,15,17,19,21,24,28,32,36T

Chain: SHIMANO HG74 10 SPEED

 

Thanks..

[Wolfie1]

Hi Raydek

 

There are a few 1x10 conversion threads on the hub at the moment that would be able to assist but,

 

You need to run a narrow and wide chain ring up front and on the cassette you need to remove the 17 tooth and add the 42 cassette adapter from wolf tooth.

 

But if you want to do it properly then you need to remove the 15  and 17 tooth as well and add in a 16 tooth from a road bike cassette and then add you 42 or 40 if you like i the back of the range.

 

I've changed mine to that configuration and been riding like that now for 2 months. Ratio's are evenly spread with no issues with shifting but i do have the 40 tooth in the back and not the 42 

 

Hope this helps

[Fisan]

Take a look at the Ultra Poormans XX1 thread. They discuss how to add the 42 T (and optional 16T) sprocket. In short, you will have to do some handy work with cheaper cassettes - you want to fix the the 42 T sprocket to the cassette to prevent it from torque-damaging the freehub.

 

And lastly, chain length: your long cage derailleur would be fine for a 11- 42 T setup, but you will need to shorten the chain as specified on Absolute black's website.

 

For further reading:

http://www.thehubsa....ersion-options/

http://www.thehubsa....1-alternatives/

http://www.thehubsa....al-lee-adapter/

http://www.thehubsa....a-poormans-xx1/ 

 

Good luck!

[The MTBer]

You will have te get a Narrow wide chainring or a chain guide.

 

Check out http://www.kitted.co.za they are a local company.

 

My other question that I can not answer is the story about the clutch Rear Derailleur and the 1x10 setups, everyone(most) say you must use a clutch and the other 5 say you don't need it.

[Rick Sanchez]

Get a narrow/wide ring. I have one from Kitted and they work great. A lot cheaper than a Wolftooth chainring (which I have owned in the past) and just as good in my opinion. You can run this without a clutch rear derailleur. Also, I never made any alterations to my cassette, so I'm not sure if It's exactly necessary to do so.

[Raydek]

Thanks all for the info, it very much summarizes all the threads I've been reading..

 

Theoretically I can just swop out the current chain rings for a NW and leave the cassette as is?? Assuming my legs can handle the climbs...

 

Is the point of a NW just to stop the chain from coming off?

[Thermophage]

Yep...i put on a RaceFace NW 32t with my old 9 speed 11-32 cassette and x9 NON-clutch derailleur...Rode it about a month.

You need to ensure the chain is tensioned correctly (largest back+front ring without going through the derailleur + 2 links worked).

SO like that I rode for a few weeks while waiting for my clutch and new cassette. You can do it. You may need to fiddle with spacers on your BB to get the chainline correct...It is always going to be skew, but i prefer it to be "straight" closer to the larger cogs on the cassette, where you tend to add more torque....

You'll also need single speed chainring bolts, or a way to grind them shorter..

But aside from that...BEST decision I've ever made.

Currently riding 32T up front with a 11-36 at the back and easily ride anything in Tokai, even the St up. I did struggle a little in Jonkershoek a little though.

But am still waiting for my OneUp components 42+16T rings for the back which will assist wuite a lot! Damn SAPO strike FFS(@^@$)&!(**!

 

Cheers ,

Cuan

[Trackmonster]

Thanks all for the info, it very much summarizes all the threads I've been reading..

 

Theoretically I can just swop out the current chain rings for a NW and leave the cassette as is?? Assuming my legs can handle the climbs...

 

Is the point of a NW just to stop the chain from coming off?

Mine was simple. Bought a Narrow Wide chainring from Rapide for about R550. Took all my normal chainrings off and front derailer.  Shorten the chain by about 3 links. Job done. Best to at least have a 11-36 cassette on the back. I have never looked back and love the 1 x 10 set up. The chain sticks to the Rapide ring like glue and I have never needed anymore gears. If you want you can add a 42T or 40T cassette adaptor by removing the 17T sprocket on an 11-36 cassette.  

[Raydek]

Mine was simple. Bought a Narrow Wide chainring from Rapide for about R550. Took all my normal chainrings off and front derailer.  Shorten the chain by about 3 links. Job done. Best to at least have a 11-36 cassette on the back. I have never looked back and love the 1 x 10 set up. The chain sticks to the Rapide ring like glue and I have never needed anymore gears. If you want you can add a 42T or 40T cassette adaptor by removing the 17T sprocket on an 11-36 cassette.  

 

This seems simple enough and I have a 11-36 cassette, all the trails I rode this weekend I rode in my middle chainring and coped... So maybe this way is the answer.....

[Fisan]

You may need to fiddle with spacers on your BB to get the chainline correct...It is always going to be skew, but i prefer it to be "straight" closer to the larger cogs on the cassette, where you tend to add more torque....

 

I would not advise to change the spacers on your BB. Using the incorrect amount of spacers could damage your crankset, BB or BB shell.

 

Rather try to correct your chain line by using spacers on your crankset.

[shaper]

I would not advise to change the spacers on your BB. Using the incorrect amount of spacers could damage your crankset, BB or BB shell.

 

Rather try to correct your chain line by using spacers on your crankset.

he has a 3x crankset, so should be able to fit the NW chainring in the place of the existing middle chainring, so should not need to mess with the BB spacers.

[Thermophage]

I would not advise to change the spacers on your BB. Using the incorrect amount of spacers could damage your crankset, BB or BB shell.

 

Rather try to correct your chain line by using spacers on your crankset.

Not changing spacers, but moving it from the drive to non-drive side gave me a much better chainline for the larger cogs in the cassette where I spend most of my time  going uphill...so less chain wear IMHO

[CdT85]

You will have te get a Narrow wide chainring or a chain guide.

 

Check out http://www.kitted.co.za they are a local company.

 

My other question that I can not answer is the story about the clutch Rear Derailleur and the 1x10 setups, everyone(most) say you must use a clutch and the other 5 say you don't need it.

 

Just my 2c. I have converted my 26" FS to 1 x 10. My setup is as follow:

Shimano Deore XT rear derailleur (non-clutch)

Shimano Deore 11 - 36 Cassette 

Shimano Deore XT x10 shifter

Shimano Deore 10 Speed chain (used the length supplied, did not remove any links)

Dartmoor Raider Trail 32T Narrow Wide Chainring. (from dialldbikes)

 

All and all, the setup was just about 2K.

 

I bought a chainguide for in case this setup does not work, but I had no issues so far. The derailleur puts enough tension on the chain. and the Narrow Wide chainring keep the chain in check.

 

I took my new setup for a spin the weekend, in some very rocky, rough terrain. I had no issue with the chain coming off, in fact, I don't think I had any chain slap against my frame.

 

So not sure if you really need a clutch derailleur, or if it is the fact that my current setup is still new, and if issues will creep in as soon as wear and tear sets in. All I know is that I have never had such a smooth gear setup before, and it allows me to climb a lot better

[Raydek]

Thanks again all, really helped make up my mind..

[Hairy]

Yep...i put on a RaceFace NW 32t with my old 9 speed 11-32 cassette and x9 NON-clutch derailleur...Rode it about a month.

You need to ensure the chain is tensioned correctly (largest back+front ring without going through the derailleur + 2 links worked).

SO like that I rode for a few weeks while waiting for my clutch and new cassette. You can do it. You may need to fiddle with spacers on your BB to get the chainline correct...It is always going to be skew, but i prefer it to be "straight" closer to the larger cogs on the cassette, where you tend to add more torque....

You'll also need single speed chainring bolts, or a way to grind them shorter..

But aside from that...BEST decision I've ever made.

Currently riding 32T up front with a 11-26 at the back and easily ride anything in Tokai, even the St up. I did struggle a little in Jonkershoek a little though.

But am still waiting for my OneUp components 42+16T rings for the back which will assist wuite a lot! Damn SAPO strike FFS(@^@$)&!(**!

 

Cheers ,

Cuan

Have you dropped the chain at all yet?

 

11-26t cassette .... lekker tough rider you are, or was this a typo and you meant 11-36t?

[Thermophage]

Have you dropped the chain at all yet?

 

11-26t cassette .... lekker tough rider you are, or was this a typo and you meant 11-36t?

oopps...36 now .. damn typo!

I dropped the chain on the DH track in Tokai a few times before switching to clutch mech.

After clutch mech...nothing, not even chain slap. 

Have ridden Hoogekraal, Tokai (ST and DH track) and Jonkershoek (although not the BD run) and no chain drop yet.

So all-in-all very impressed with it hey.