Building a Cyclo Cross bike

[NotSoBigBen]

Kief ek se [emoji41]

 

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[RSR]

Hi guys, a little advice and help required pls. Currently have an Aluminium GT zaskar HT. Running 2 x 10 setup and looking at purchasing an full suspension early next year. Would like to convert the GT to a “monster cross”? Drop bars etc... any thoughts?

Thanks

[WernerLouwBosman]

Selling a Cyclo Cross bike:

 

https://www.bikehub.co.za/classifieds/283178-cotic-escapade/

 

This thread is the reason I built this bike, so it is a full circle.

[samson99]

Selling my cross wheels 

 

https://www.bikehub.co.za/classifieds/283378-vittoria-reaxcion-29er-wheels/

 

And also selling brand new continental cyclocross tyres.

PM if keen as i need to check which ones i have. 

[Underachiever]

Just fitted a set of 40c Kenda Flintridge gravel tyres on the Niner for my Dec Karoo adventures.  Looks sooo much more capable vs. the Maxxis Larsen Mimo's that I used for the past 2 years.

 

The Maxxis is a 35c Cx tyre that is just way too flimsy for sharp rocks, and also does not have enough volume for the rough stuff. 

 

Will publish my impressions in the new year.

[Sepia]

Just fitted a set of 40c Kenda Flintridge gravel tyres on the Niner for my Dec Karoo adventures.  Looks sooo much more capable vs. the Maxxis Larsen Mimo's that I used for the past 2 years.

 

The Maxxis is a 35c Cx tyre that is just way too flimsy for sharp rocks, and also does not have enough volume for the rough stuff. 

 

Will publish my impressions in the new year.

 

Will watch this with interest as I will be needing a new set of tyres by then to replace my On One's.

Not sure what to get for GG only.  Have a Mud King and Cycloking for trails.

[milky4130]

Just fitted a set of 40c Kenda Flintridge gravel tyres on the Niner for my Dec Karoo adventures. Looks sooo much more capable vs. the Maxxis Larsen Mimo's that I used for the past 2 years.

 

The Maxxis is a 35c Cx tyre that is just way too flimsy for sharp rocks, and also does not have enough volume for the rough stuff.

 

Will publish my impressions in the new year.

also got the Kenda's when Cwc ran a promotion on them not too long ago. Still need to do a ride on them, previously had Specialized 33c's, punctured the rear back in 2016 & never rode with the bike ever since.

[milky4130]

For the folk in the western cape, who would be keen to ride or race these cyclocross/monstercross bikes in gravel grinder type event?

[the nerd]

Im looking for some cx wheels

 

QR Front and rear

Rim Brake

Road spaced

 

Cheap... 

[NotSoBigBen]

Not sure if this is the place to post this but anyway ... A previous attempt to make the 'ChangYong' slicks tubeless was aborted due to the tyres being so loose on the rim. Tried the now standard tape/valve stuff but no go. Went with tubes and have had a few punctures [emoji19]

 

Decided that as DirtRider says with enough effort any wheel/tyre combo it is possible so ... Settled on the old 'ghetto' conversion of four score and seven years ago [emoji6]

 

Used 24" inch tubes but removed the valves carefully as they were car type and used new tubeless valves with removable core as I wanted to still be able to fill and top up the sealant this way.

 

Besides the fact that as the tyres are used, meaning there were a few 'unsealed' punctures and one even need to be plugged, it worked pretty well. Inflated with the compressor the first time, after then popping some sealant in they now pump up with a floor pump no problem.

 

I'll perhaps still carry a tube for a ride or 2 just in case but otherwise hoping that's the end of tubes and stuff [emoji3]

 

Some useless info perhaps ...

 

Sent from my HUAWEI VNS-L31 using Tapatalk

[Underachiever]

Just fitted a set of 40c Kenda Flintridge gravel tyres on the Niner for my Dec Karoo adventures.  Looks sooo much more capable vs. the Maxxis Larsen Mimo's that I used for the past 2 years.

 

The Maxxis is a 35c Cx tyre that is just way too flimsy for sharp rocks, and also does not have enough volume for the rough stuff. 

 

Will publish my impressions in the new year.

Ok, initial comparison and thoughts.

 

Maxxis were a pain to get to run tubeless, and eventually I gave up.  Kenda's were a breeze.

 

Maxxis measure 33mm wide, and the Kenda's a whopping 42mm.  They are huge!!  Cannot wait to get them on the rough stuff!!!

 

For tar riding:

- I ran the Maxxis at about 2.8-3.0 Bar pressure, which gives a harsh ride (Niner is Alu) - bike is on the heavy side at 10.2kg and behaves like....a heavy roadbike.  (Maxxis = 300g each).

- I ran the Kenda's at about 2.6 Bar, and the ride is plush in comparison. (Kenda's = 520g each). The extra weight is a killer.  The bike now feels like a HT MTB, but a tad more nimble.  Bear in mind I'm still on a 26er HT (Alu)!!

-Rolling resistance similar, Kenda's have the edge.

[samson99]

https://www.bikehub.co.za/classifieds/284199-continental-cycle-cross-tyres/

 

I am selling cyclocross tyres I have no use for anymore.

[Karate Monkey]

So I have been following this thread a bit and thought I would post by little project and join the conversation.

 

I bought an old Trek 730 Multitrack (somewhere in the 90's model) for R900.  Bike was in good condition but I was after the frame mostly.

 

Have done so far:

 

1.  I stripped the bike and got rid of the old, close to in it's chops square tapered BB.  I was planning on running V or Cantilever brakes until I saw that the one brake post was broken off. 

 

2.  Stripped all the paint off and brushed it by hand.  Will be going for the raw steel look showing off the welds and brazing.

 

3.  Bought a used quil to 1 1/8th converter, used ritchey stem and drop bars.  Bought a used seat, drop bar brake levers and bar tape.

 

To be done:

 

1.  Remove old brake posts and weld on disc brake posts.

 

2.  Clear coat the frame to stop it from oxidizing.

 

3.  Buy a used old 104bcd crankset and BB to run 1x front ring.

 

4.  Buy a used 10speed MTB rear deraileur.

 

5.  Buy a used friction shifter, either downtube or thumb and mod it to fit by the right brake lever.

 

6.  Buy a used 27.2mm seatpost.

 

7.  Buy a used or new disc and QR combo wheelset.

 

8.  Buy some fresh rubber.

 

9.  Buy used mechanical disc calipers(preferably road calipers so the cable ratio works out)

 

10.  Ride as much as I can.

 

11.  Enter the Karoobaix 2018.

 

Here is a picture of the state of my frame currently.

 

 

[samson99]

Looking smart Karate Monkey.

Give me a shout if you need rubber and wheels.

[Mongoose!]

Not sure if this is the place to post this but anyway ... A previous attempt to make the 'ChangYong' slicks tubeless was aborted due to the tyres being so loose on the rim. Tried the now standard tape/valve stuff but no go. Went with tubes and have had a few punctures [emoji19]

 

Decided that as DirtRider says with enough effort any wheel/tyre combo it is possible so ... Settled on the old 'ghetto' conversion of four score and seven years ago [emoji6]

 

Used 24" inch tubes but removed the valves carefully as they were car type and used new tubeless valves with removable core as I wanted to still be able to fill and top up the sealant this way.

 

Besides the fact that as the tyres are used, meaning there were a few 'unsealed' punctures and one even need to be plugged, it worked pretty well. Inflated with the compressor the first time, after then popping some sealant in they now pump up with a floor pump no problem.

 

I'll perhaps still carry a tube for a ride or 2 just in case but otherwise hoping that's the end of tubes and stuff [emoji3]

 

Some useless info perhaps ...

 

Sent from my HUAWEI VNS-L31 using Tapatalk

 

foldable  tyres?

[missioner]

So I have been following this thread a bit and thought I would post by little project and join the conversation.

 

I bought an old Trek 730 Multitrack (somewhere in the 90's model) for R900. Bike was in good condition but I was after the frame mostly.

 

Have done so far:

 

1. I stripped the bike and got rid of the old, close to in it's chops square tapered BB. I was planning on running V or Cantilever brakes until I saw that the one brake post was broken off.

 

2. Stripped all the paint off and brushed it by hand. Will be going for the raw steel look showing off the welds and brazing.

 

3. Bought a used quil to 1 1/8th converter, used ritchey stem and drop bars. Bought a used seat, drop bar brake levers and bar tape.

 

To be done:

 

1. Remove old brake posts and weld on disc brake posts.

 

2. Clear coat the frame to stop it from oxidizing.

 

3. Buy a used old 104bcd crankset and BB to run 1x front ring.

 

4. Buy a used 10speed MTB rear deraileur.

 

5. Buy a used friction shifter, either downtube or thumb and mod it to fit by the right brake lever.

 

6. Buy a used 27.2mm seatpost.

 

7. Buy a used or new disc and QR combo wheelset.

 

8. Buy some fresh rubber.

 

9. Buy used mechanical disc calipers(preferably road calipers so the cable ratio works out)

 

10. Ride as much as I can.

 

11. Enter the Karoobaix 2018.

 

Here is a picture of the state of my frame currently.

Since it's a 1 1/8 inch steerer on that frame, why don't you toss the old heavy fork out in favour of a 29er/CX carbon rigid.

 

It will drop the weight of the bike some and also let you use more modern (read easily available) parts for the headset and stem assembly. If you look around you may even get one with disc mounts that should help reduce the complexity of your build.