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Disc Brakes - Opinions, Advice, Suggestions


Dikc

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Posted

Woah, Iv only heard people rave about Avid, please explain!

Their taperbore technology was a bit... inconsistent. When it worked, it worked beautifully, but certain brake sets were plagued by air pockets and dodgy internals. The discs that they made during that time were also the ones responsible for the dreaded turkey-warble and squeal, which gave them a bad name. 

 

They were also very finicky when it came to time to bleed them. Not difficult, just time consuming. You had to take care of them, like a bi-polar girlfriend... But when they worked - oh my. 

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Posted

Thank you, very interesting opinions and information here. Can someone kindly explain some of the lingo. In terms of modulation for example. Is the how hard one needs to pull on the lever in relation to the amount of pressure the calipers force on the rotor? So more modulation meaning less sensitive?!

Posted

correct.

 

Thank you, very interesting opinions and information here. Can someone kindly explain some of the lingo. In terms of modulation for example. Is the how hard one needs to pull on the lever in relation to the amount of pressure the calipers force on the rotor? So more modulation meaning less sensitive?!

Posted

Thank you, very interesting opinions and information here. Can someone kindly explain some of the lingo. In terms of modulation for example. Is the how hard one needs to pull on the lever in relation to the amount of pressure the calipers force on the rotor? So more modulation meaning less sensitive?!

Yes, more/'better' modulation means there is a greater range of finger pressure/movement required to progress from just touching the disc to fully locked brakes. This makes it a little easier to apply the desired degree of braking when you are bouncing along on a trail.

 

Most modern MTB brakes have some kind of variable leverage or camming action in their lever linkages. This makes the brake piston take up slack quickly and then move progressively less but with more clamping power as you continue to squeeze the lever. Shimano calls theirs 'Servo-wave'. SRAM call it 'swing link' etc.

Posted

Jip your fine motor skills would need to be pretty deficient if you can't get anything between a lock up and nothing with XT brakes.

 

The best lever control was on the Magura MTS brakes that came with my bike though. I had great control over the pitch of the noise they made but unfortunately they couldn't slow the bike down.

any comparisons on magura mts and shimano xt?

Posted

Yes, more/'better' modulation means there is a greater range of finger pressure/movement required to progress from just touching the disc to fully locked brakes. This makes it a little easier to apply the desired degree of braking when you are bouncing along on a trail.

 

Most modern MTB brakes have some kind of variable leverage or camming action in their lever linkages. This makes the brake piston take up slack quickly and then move progressively less but with more clamping power as you continue to squeeze the lever. Shimano calls theirs 'Servo-wave'. SRAM call it 'swing link' etc.

Thx ;)

Posted

Horses for courses.  I've found the cable discs easy to maintain and adjust....

 

I'm currently using Avid BB7 MTNs, and have found them to work really well, no matter the conditions. Easy to adjust and service. No fuss and good modulation - for me, an average trail/AM rider.

Posted

any comparisons on magura mts and shimano xt?

No comparison, the MTS were rubbish. It could have been a batch of OEM pads but at the cost of new Magura pads I wasn't going to risk throwing money at them.

 

My hand would actually get tired on a long descent where the XT just needs one finger.

Posted

Shimano for the win. Mineral oil based and they just keep on trucking.

SRAMAVID - only the Guides - up until the Guides Avid made crap. I dont like the DOT fluid. I don't like the "spongy" feel of SRAMAVIDs which some people call modulation.

Hope are awesome. Flippin expensive but totally serviceable and damn fine.

Bang for buck, bleed ease, stopping lower, value it's gotta be the Shimanos.

 

Edit: Mechanicals are way better than people give them credit for. I've run a few mechanical sets because I like to build weird roadcycloxmtbs and I reckon most people would fail to identify mechanical or hydraulic in a double blind test. Super easy to set up (especially the SRAMAVID BB7) and no need for bleeding.

Posted

I have had a few different brakes setups on my mountain bikes so far. My dirt jumer, came out with Hayes mechanical disc brakes, the worked well, no matter what terrain I rode.

I later upgraded them to Avid Elixir 5's (which gave me issues untill I had them serviced) and Later to Avid Elixir CR's (Best brakes I ever owned)

 

I also had Tektro Auriga Comp on one of my rides, which in my opinion I should never have "upgraded" to Shimano Deore brakes. The latter having crappy modulation, binds up with use, and depending on the weather, does not stop my back wheel at all when seated (Had it bled twice already)

 

Below is a list of brakes I had so far:

Hayes MX2 Mechanical

Avid Elixir 5 (on two of my MTB's)

Avid Elixer CR

Tecktro Aurigo Comp

Shimano Deore

Magura Julie

 

In my own experience, the Avids just control and brake better. And the fact that you can merely buy a kit to rebuild them if they get "sick" ( I must confess, struggled to find a rebuild kit for my Elixir 5's recently) is a big plus in the maintenance department.

My opinion is biased looking at the brake set I owned thus far, as are most of everyone else's opinion.

 

To the OP, I would suggest try XT's, easy to sell if you are not happy with it. Then do yourself a favor and get SRAM brakes. If I had the spare cash, all three my current rides would be runnig SRAM guides.

 

http://www.pinkbike.com/news/What-folks-are-riding-and-using-in-the-Whistler-Bike-Park-2012.html

 

Take a look at the article on pink bike..might shed some light on your choice going forward

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