Wheel building

[madmarc]

So I recently kitted out my workshop with most of the wheel building tools i need

 

PARK PRO Truing Stand

Spoke Tension Meter

Spoke spanners

Dishing tool still to be procured

 

Who, where is the best place to get a proper wheel building course

[FDP]

With the guy who started this topic....

[nick_the_wheelbuilder]

With the guy who started this topic....

 

Yup.

Full day (6-8 hours)

Use my tools

Must start with a new rim and spokes, any hub.

 

R1995 includes a "textbook"

 

I can help source any parts.

[NotSoBigBen]

I am of the opinion that like many things not just anyone can build a wheel even with all the books and youtjoob videos available (that is safe and reliable) ..... like playing a musical instrument for example you need some inclination for it and there is some 'feel' involved?

 

yes yes yes my #flamesuit is on and zipped up

So since I have lots of time I had a go at building these, lots of help and advice from mates at bike shops.

 

As usual not something 'standard' since that's not my way [emoji6]

 

Used 28h carbon rims with a slight problem on one's braking surface that I had repaired, since they're road disc wheels it would be fine my carbon fibre mate tells me, new 32h Novatec hubs, just happened that these were available free of charge from my son

 

Skipped a few holes here and there and a bit of a challenge with spoke lengths ... They are pretty round and true, I have ridden about 150k's on them now including my usual hill climb route that'll test any wheels with my weight!

 

What I will say is that whatever you pay a wheel builder to build your wheels it more than likely doesn't cover his time and expertise that's for sure! It takes time and mega patience, for me anyway.

 

Will I do it again? No chance!

[David Marshall]

Skipped a few holes....... bit of a challenge with spoke length........I would like to inspect before pass judgement ..... no I will pass judgement - I would never buy them from you but lets leave it at "I would not like to descend Hekpoort over the speed bumps at 80+ km ph". 

 

Skipping holes on a hub is a no no - unless you lace radially in alternate holes - which is a no no in my book anyway.

[NotSoBigBen]

Skipped a few holes....... bit of a challenge with spoke length........I would like to inspect before pass judgement ..... no I will pass judgement - I would never buy them from you but lets leave it at "I would not like to descend Hekpoort over the speed bumps at 80+ km ph".

 

Skipping holes on a hub is a no no - unless you lace radially in alternate holes - which is a no no in my book anyway.

Would never sell them, only my teeth to worry about. Missed 4 holes (2 each side) I'll take the risk ....

[NotSoBigBen]

Skipped a few holes....... bit of a challenge with spoke length........I would like to inspect before pass judgement ..... no I will pass judgement - I would never buy them from you but lets leave it at "I would not like to descend Hekpoort over the speed bumps at 80+ km ph".

 

Skipping holes on a hub is a no no - unless you lace radially in alternate holes - which is a no no in my book anyway.

David, having given this a bit of thought I'm wondering ... Since I have built the wheels using all 28 possible spokes on the rim i.e missing only the 2 holes on each flange of the 32 hole hub (diagonally across on each side if that makes sense) would you still consider the wheel to not be of sufficient strength for normal riding?

 

Yes you have made me think about my teeth ????

 

Would appreciate your expert opinion ...

[MariusC]

I am thinking of getting a new rear hub as I want it to go krrrrrrrrrrrrr

Nothing wrong with my current one I just want a new one.

first question what is a good loud rear hub that doesn't completely break the bank

second how much would it cost to rebuild the wheel?

 

Current wheels is a set of Easton EA70 non boost TA

[Jewbacca]

I am thinking of getting a new rear hub as I want it to go krrrrrrrrrrrrr

Nothing wrong with my current one I just want a new one.

first question what is a good loud rear hub that doesn't completely break the bank

second how much would it cost to rebuild the wheel?

 

Current wheels is a set of Easton EA70 non boost TA

I have never understood the loud and proud hub...

 

My Chris King hub hardly makes any noise and I love it. Conversely I have a steel freehub Hope pro2evo which is deafening!

 

I prefer silence when free wheeling sections of really fun trails or flat fire roads trying to chat to my mates. 

 

My advice would be Hope. They are not hugely expensive, a great product and reliable. Otherwise the ECC hubs are less expensive but also a great product.

 

Not sure how much people charge to strip and rebuild wheels. I build all my own.

 

Make sure the replacement hub has similar flange heights to your current model though. Buying 28/32 new spokes as well as all the above starts getting pricey

[MariusC]

I have never understood the loud and proud hub...

 

My Chris King hub hardly makes any noise and I love it. Conversely I have a steel freehub Hope pro2evo which is deafening!

 

I prefer silence when free wheeling sections of really fun trails or flat fire roads trying to chat to my mates. 

 

My advice would be Hope. They are not hugely expensive, a great product and reliable. Otherwise the ECC hubs are less expensive but also a great product.

 

Not sure how much people charge to strip and rebuild wheels. I build all my own.

 

Make sure the replacement hub has similar flange heights to your current model though. Buying 28/32 new spokes as well as all the above starts getting pricey

Thanks for the info

I also don't know what it is about the noise, I just like it

But if it gets too much I can just swap back to the Eastons as I have 2 identical wheel sets

[Chavo]

Question for the experienced wheel builders - what spoke keys do you use that are available locally? Is Park Tool the only worthwhile option or are there others?

[Martin PJ]

David, having given this a bit of thought I'm wondering ... Since I have built the wheels using all 28 possible spokes on the rim i.e missing only the 2 holes on each flange of the 32 hole hub (diagonally across on each side if that makes sense) would you still consider the wheel to not be of sufficient strength for normal riding?

 

Yes you have made me think about my teeth

 

Would appreciate your expert opinion ...

 

I would worry about spoke tension on a carbon wheel if you skipped a few holes. Uneven tensions would make some spokes break sooner, also too tight and a spoke could pull through the rim when you are riding. Not a catastrophe, but expensive to repair.

 

You can buy Novatex hubs on Aliexpress for less than R1000, repairing the carbon rim is going to cost a lot more than that. Rather don't chance it.

[David Marshall]

David, having given this a bit of thought I'm wondering ... Since I have built the wheels using all 28 possible spokes on the rim i.e missing only the 2 holes on each flange of the 32 hole hub (diagonally across on each side if that makes sense) would you still consider the wheel to not be of sufficient strength for normal riding?

 

Yes you have made me think about my teeth

 

Would appreciate your expert opinion ...

Sorry for the late reply.  Just looked at the thread now.  I doubt that you will have a problem riding them - just with the odd spacing the tensions and spoke lengths are off and therefore more likely to fatigue.  

[David Marshall]

Question for the experienced wheel builders - what spoke keys do you use that are available locally? Is Park Tool the only worthwhile option or are there others?

The best ones are the "Spokey" brand.  Ideally the red and the yellow.  (Red 3.2 mm and yellow 3.4 mm).  They have a plastic base and don't scratch the rims like metal ones do.  The large tabs allow for easy turning and measuring the amount of turn is pretty simple.  That said there are so many spoke and nipple combinations that if you build more than the odd wheel you will end up with a drawer full of wrenches.  

[Chavo]

The best ones are the "Spokey" brand.  Ideally the red and the yellow.  (Red 3.2 mm and yellow 3.4 mm).  They have a plastic base and don't scratch the rims like metal ones do.  The large tabs allow for easy turning and measuring the amount of turn is pretty simple.  That said there are so many spoke and nipple combinations that if you build more than the odd wheel you will end up with a drawer full of wrenches.  

Thanks David. I've been looking at the Spokey brand mostly but from what I can see they don't seem to be locally available. Do you perhaps know where to get hold of them?

[NotSoBigBen]

Sorry for the late reply. Just looked at the thread now. I doubt that you will have a problem riding them - just with the odd spacing the tensions and spoke lengths are off and therefore more likely to fatigue.

Thanks for the reply David. Have done a bit of riding on them and will just keep an eye on the spokes and rims going forward. Not an every day bike luckily [emoji41]