Is Boost the new thing?

[Underachiever]

Cool story, bro!

The thing is that I am actually not that much of a (old) race snake, especially on a MTB!!

 

Wish I could drop that kind of money on a bike. Mind you, I could probably, but there are better things to invest my money in. 

[peds]

I had a look at a couple of online stores. Where could one get these boost hubs? Or wheels?

I also read somewhere that you need a different crank because chainstay is shorter? Can anyone with a tallboy 3 verify this?

[Captain Fastbastard Mayhem]

I had a look at a couple of online stores. Where could one get these boost hubs? Or wheels?

I also read somewhere that you need a different crank because chainstay is shorter? Can anyone with a tallboy 3 verify this?

Boost hubs are readily available through almost all reputable outlets. They may have to order them in for you, but that's the same as normal hubs.

 

Hope / i9 / shimano etc all have boost hubs.

 

And no, you don't need a different crank. It's just the chainline that changes, not the BB width / spindle length. It's only a 3mm change (3mm either side) and using a standard crank / chainring could give you a better chainline for the upper gears as the chain would be more inboard. 

 

The only difference between boost & non boost cranks afaik is the offset of the RINGS or SPIDER, not the crank. IE if you buy a boost SLX 2x11 crankset, the spider or chainrings will have an offset towards the drive side of 3mm more than normal. You MAY come into clearance problems if you run a normal chainring, but I don't see the issue cropping up unless you want to go above a 36t ring.

 

Read this From Wolftooth:

 

http://www.wolftoothcomponents.com/pages/boost-chainline-and-chainrings 

[peds]

Boost hubs are readily available through almost all reputable outlets. They may have to order them in for you, but that's the same as normal hubs.

 

Hope / i9 / shimano etc all have boost hubs.

 

And no, you don't need a different crank. It's just the chainline that changes, not the BB width / spindle length. It's only a 3mm change (3mm either side) and using a standard crank / chainring could give you a better chainline for the upper gears as the chain would be more inboard. 

 

The only difference between boost & non boost cranks afaik is the offset of the RINGS or SPIDER, not the crank. IE if you buy a boost SLX 2x11 crankset, the spider or chainrings will have an offset towards the drive side of 3mm more than normal. You MAY come into clearance problems if you run a normal chainring, but I don't see the issue cropping up unless you want to go above a 36t ring.

 

Read this From Wolftooth:

 

http://www.wolftoothcomponents.com/pages/boost-chainline-and-chainrings 

Awesome thanks will read through that. I just read in a couple of forums that you need to change the crank which I'm glad I don't. Just need to find hubs or wheels then. Thanks for the info.

[JXV]

Hi, do anybody know if there is a way if and how one can still use old (new) wheelset in new SC Tallboy 3?

I just went through this a few months back with a Hightower....

 

For the front, if you fit a normal 15x100mm thru axle fork (or a QR fork if that's what wheels you have) it will be OK but you'll be limited to 29er wheels

 

At rear, depending what hubs you have it may be possible to buy adapters or get them lathed up. This has been done by my LBS for certain hubs. DTSwiss 350 or 240 can be done this way. You also need a 3mm spacer under the rear disc and preferably longer bolts to suit.

 

The downside of converting 12x142 hubs is that the freehub body will retain its standard 50mm chainline instead of the 'boost' 53mm chainline. This reduces chain-tire clearance and may limit your ability to run 27.5+ wheels. You also need to be careful which cranks you fit. Normal non-boost 1x cranks may not permit enough chainstay clearance to run a chainring bigger than 32t. Some oval chainrings may also snag on the chainstay.

 

If you are running standard Shimano 2x cranks converted to 1x the good news is you can get enough clearance to run a 34t round ring if you mount the ring direct to crank without spacers. I did this for a while.

 

Ultimately its best to convert to a boost hub....at least for the rear and then couple this with a boost compatible crank. I'm running a XT M8000-B1 crank with 34t Wolftooth chainring on Hope boost axles and it only just clears the chainstay. 34t oval won't fit. If you run normal cranks on boost rear the front chainline will be inboard of the cassette midpoint. this can cause the chain to 'click' because it angles inwards from the cassette and may contact the shift ramps on the topside of the next biggest gear. This can't be fixed by adjusting the RD.

 

If you get the Hope boost rear hub it comes with a longer freehub designed for 11spd cassettes and important not to lose the little freehub spacer ring that's in the box.....you will need it if you want to run a 10 spd cassette and also to finetune your chainline.

 

If you don't get the chainline just right the wear rate on chain and gears will rocket and your 'savings' will evaporate eventually.

 

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[peds]

I bought one of those Lyne boost cranks, unfortunately the frame didnt arrive and I am in the process of buying another frame without boost. Can the boost crank be used on non boost bikes? I tried to mail Lynne twice but they might be on leave at the moment.

 

If you have some knowledge around this that you would like to share I would appreciate it.

[Nick]

I bought one of those Lyne boost cranks, unfortunately the frame didnt arrive and I am in the process of buying another frame without boost. Can the boost crank be used on non boost bikes? I tried to mail Lyne twice but they might be on leave at the moment.

 

If you have some knowledge around this that you would like to share I would appreciate it.

 

My understanding is that the cranks are the same but that the chainrings determine the chain line, so you'd just need to get a non-Boost chainring from them.

[popcorn_skollie]

I bought one of those Lyne boost cranks, unfortunately the frame didnt arrive and I am in the process of buying another frame without boost. Can the boost crank be used on non boost bikes? I tried to mail Lyne twice but they might be on leave at the moment.

 

If you have some knowledge around this that you would like to share I would appreciate it.

 

Nothing to worry about. If anything it will be a 3mm chainline shift but that's it.

 

Remember. People have been using cranks with 73mm spindle widths inside 68mm bb shelled frames for years. Which should unsettle the chainline by 5mm. But really nothing a spacer or 2 can't address. 

[peds]

Nothing to worry about. If anything it will be a 3mm chainline shift but that's it.

Remember. People have been using cranks with 73mm spindle widths inside 68mm bb shelled frames for years. Which should unsettle the chainline by 5mm. But really nothing a spacer or 2 can't address. 

 

My understanding is that the cranks are the same but that the chainrings determine the chain line, so you'd just need to get a non-Boost chainring from them.

 

Thanks for this.

[JXV]

My understanding is that the cranks are the same but that the chainrings determine the chain line, so you'd just need to get a non-Boost chainring from them.

The Shimano B1 boost cranks have the spider 3mm further out and use standard Shimano chainrings. Q factor is unaffected. Some other brands offer chainrings with varying thickness of the integral moulded spacer to allow the ring to be placed further inboard/outboard.

 

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[dev null]

If you get the Hope boost rear hub it comes with a longer freehub designed for 11spd cassettes and important not to lose the little freehub spacer ring that's in the box.....you will need it if you want to run a 10 spd cassette and also to finetune your chainline.

 

If you don't get the chainline just right the wear rate on chain and gears will rocket and your 'savings' will evaporate eventually.

 

Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk

 

AFAIK the Shimano 11-speed cassettes are actually narrower than their 10-speed cassettes. I had to put the Hope spacer on when I converted my one son's bike from Deore 10 speed to XT 11 speed.

[JXV]

AFAIK the Shimano 11-speed cassettes are actually narrower than their 10-speed cassettes. I had to put the Hope spacer on when I converted my one son's bike from Deore 10 speed to XT 11 speed.

Yes so did I in the end. For 11 speed cassettes it seems Shimano 'dishes' the cassette spider to place the big cog inboard of the base of the freehub and the spacing of the other cogs is also closer.

 

Hope now has freehubs with 2 different lengths. You can tell them apart by the machining on the base of the splines. There is a page on Hope's website that shows the difference. The long one came standard on my Pro4 boost hub so I had to use the included spacer ring which is 1mm thick.

 

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[BaGearA]

Oi , recently bought a spez stumpjumper 

 

came with  

Custom SRAM GX-1000, PF30 spindle, 28T, direct mount  crank

 

 

Bike is boost , so can I put on any other bb30 crank as long as I still use A 3mm offset chainring ?

[2bliss]

Apologies for resurrecting a very old thread but I need some Bikehub help, please.

 

All Boost/Shimano discussions on the Web seem to focus on 1x11 drivetrain setups.  Well, I just prefer 2x.  So, with correct hubs and fork, will one have issues with a non-Boost 2x11 crankset (26T/36T) on a Boost frame? 

[TheJ]

Apologies for resurrecting a very old thread but I need some Bikehub help, please.

 

All Boost/Shimano discussions on the Web seem to focus on 1x11 drivetrain setups. Well, I just prefer 2x. So, with correct hubs and fork, will one have issues with a non-Boost 2x11 crankset (26T/36T) on a Boost frame?

BB Axle might be too short I'd guess.

[Captain Fastbastard Mayhem]

BB Axle might be too short I'd guess.

Nope. Even on boost bikes, BB shell remains 68/73mm - which is standard. Only DH bikes really have the 83mm BB shell.

 

And no, there shouldn't be a problem, as long as the larger chainring clears the chainstays. 

 

BTW - your fork standard doesn't matter except to your front wheel's hub.