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Slowbee

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My apology upfront as I am looking for a solution not " directly " related to woodwork . I need to clad a wooden frame with corrugated sheets ( not IBR ). Question.....how do I neatly and accurately cut the said sheets with an angle grinder. The tops of the sheets needs to by cut at a slight angle.Scrapped 2 sheets already.

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My apology upfront as I am looking for a solution not " directly " related to woodwork . I need to clad a wooden frame with corrugated sheets ( not IBR ). Question.....how do I neatly and accurately cut the said sheets with an angle grinder. The tops of the sheets needs to by cut at a slight angle.Scrapped 2 sheets already.

build a saw guide for your angle grinder so that it looks like a portable circular saw- you can just clamp a piece of wood to the line and run the blade against it - but hang on to the grinder if it gets away from you it's a very dangerous thing.

 

You will also find the thinner the grinder blade the faster and easier it cuts - So a 1mm 115 blade is easier to manage than a 4mm 355 blade.

 

Don't forget goggles and gloves too.

 

Pinterest and YouTube have good examples of how to build the bits for the grinder

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Thank you! I started making them as wedding, Christmas, and birthday gifts for family and special friends only. Soon started getting a lot of requests to sell some. I do sell them now, but on a limited scale. I am a farmer by profession, and if and when I get some time away from the farm activities and cycling I love to turn some grinders out on the lathe. Excuse the pun! Depending on the size, the type of wood, the difficulty of the design, whether it is a matching set or not, or a single mill I sell them from R450.00 for a single small ( about 180 mm tall) Kiaat mill to R1600.00 for a set of large (300 mm) Leadwood or American Walnut

Very nice, I have been wanting to turn some of those for a while now. I just need to find some nice wood which is not very easy where I live.

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build a saw guide for your angle grinder so that it looks like a portable circular saw- you can just clamp a piece of wood to the line and run the blade against it - but hang on to the grinder if it gets away from you it's a very dangerous thing.

 

You will also find the thinner the grinder blade the faster and easier it cuts - So a 1mm 115 blade is easier to manage than a 4mm 355 blade.

 

Don't forget goggles and gloves too.

 

Pinterest and YouTube have good examples of how to build the bits for the grinder

Great advice, jigs/guides are always the way to go with these types of jobs.

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Great advice, jigs/guides are always the way to go with these types of jobs.

They are indeed worth the effort to make sometimes - I am in progress with building a welding table top for myself (well - I have bought most of the material) - but other things keep getting in the way.

 

But I have at least drawn up what I am going to build.

 

post-29797-0-25981700-1516863856_thumb.jpg

 

post-29797-0-52456500-1516863864_thumb.jpg

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They are indeed worth the effort to make sometimes - I am in progress with building a welding table top for myself (well - I have bought most of the material) - but other things keep getting in the way.

 

But I have at least drawn up what I am going to build.

 

attachicon.gifIMG-20170630-WA0011.jpg

 

attachicon.gifIMG-20170630-WA0013.jpg

so now...are you going to dim that drawing in SketchUp or export to dwg and dim from there in AutoCAD or some other software?

 

SK sucks when it comes to doing dims!

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They are indeed worth the effort to make sometimes - I am in progress with building a welding table top for myself (well - I have bought most of the material) - but other things keep getting in the way.

 

But I have at least drawn up what I am going to build.

 

attachicon.gifIMG-20170630-WA0011.jpg

 

attachicon.gifIMG-20170630-WA0013.jpg

If you do the short sides as full length members with the mid section cut shorter to slot within  you will have less cuts and welding ... maybe even a stiffer overall structure.....and less chance of the main frame being out of alignment.

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If you do the short sides as full length members with the mid section cut shorter to slot within  you will have less cuts and welding ... maybe even a stiffer overall structure.....and less chance of the main frame being out of alignment.

Yup - I could do that but I want the open long members identical with the end of the open member as female pieces for attachments - it's also easier to align and drill the holes on identical members.... (somehow that all sounds wrong :) )

 

I got lazy on drawing the connections but there is a way to make the slats perfecty flat without worrying to much about the frame's accuracy.

 

So as to not keep you in suspense... here are the instructions.... have fun,.. but I don't need his level of accuracy... 0.1mm is fine for me.

 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kjaSy_SmYsQ

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so now...are you going to dim that drawing in SketchUp or export to dwg and dim from there in AutoCAD or some other software?

 

SK sucks when it comes to doing dims!

It is dimensioned in SK - but not presented on screen - I am not going to bother with that seeing as I am building it myself - and I am not paying for the bits that allow me to print it either - being strictly an amateur.

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It is dimensioned in SK - but not presented on screen - I am not going to bother with that seeing as I am building it myself - and I am not paying for the bits that allow me to print it either - being strictly an amateur.

if you do need anything exported and dimmed in CAD just drop me a PM Tchjina!

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if you do need anything exported and dimmed in CAD just drop me a PM Tchjina!

Luckily my best mate is an architect - and I have a copy of some other tools too - been playing with autodesk fusion 360 a bit

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They are indeed worth the effort to make sometimes - I am in progress with building a welding table top for myself (well - I have bought most of the material) - but other things keep getting in the way.

 

But I have at least drawn up what I am going to build.

 

attachicon.gifIMG-20170630-WA0011.jpg

 

attachicon.gifIMG-20170630-WA0013.jpg

I need to get better at sketchup, I always draw a basic design which I use for some measurements but can never really get the joints etc right. I really have to set aside some time and watch some tutorials on it.

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Anyone tried out the Luban planes that toolcraft is selling?

I bought a spokeshave from them which is sitting in a box on my desk.

Apparently they are the same as Woodriver but go by the name Luban for Europe and SA.

Pricing looks pretty good, especially on the block planes.

 

As an aside the owner of toolcraft seems like a really nice and helpful guy. Bought a few things from their online store and he popped me a mail afterwards to say thanks for the support and gave me some advice on tools. Im pretty sure I will be supporting them a lot more in future.

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