Post your woodwork here

[Pants Boy]

You should try danish oil..... then you will see shine...

Do you know Furnigloss? I've used it a couple of times, but not sure what's in it. Buffs up to a brilliant shine.

[dev null]

For inside stuff I just love Danish Oil, then rubbed with wax. It gives the wood such a silky touch.

 

BTW, on a side note. I rode Eden, G-Spot and Coetzenburg yesterday afternoon. Was getting quite chilly though by 6 in the afternoon, but it was lekker.

Edited September 2, 2016 by Moridin

[Captain Fastbastard Mayhem]

Where u riding the weekend?

Some place with lots of wood?

Tomorrow, somewhere.... Not sure where, yet. 

[Long Wheel Base]

I'm going to weigh in with a very,very small contribution regarding the threatening bitchfight here ...

 

Only 1% of a tree (By mass OR volume) is alive at any point in time (the Cambium IIRC)

 

And if varnish was so crap, why do us professionals still use it?

 

Each and every type of timber treatment has its place and application - even steel wool and vinegar. 

 

To paraphrase the Beetles - "A closed mouth gathers no foot"

So obviously we should use different products depending on what we going to be coating(inside vs outside. climate. and so on). What would you recommend for a garage door? Gets full sun in the winter afternoon but should get a bit less afternoon sun in summer. The door was fitted 3 weeks ago and they told me to oil it after 2 weeks but the floor epoxy was done last weekend so I haven't been able to go inside the garage. They recommended linseed oil or a suitable oil based sealer.

[AlanD]

Nothing like having multiple opinions to make the decision easy on what to go for... .

[Pants Boy]

RAW Linseed oil (it takes longer to dry than BLO, and creates a better coat) Otherwise Woodoc 30 or 35 (if you want to darken the wood a bit) - it's polywax, so a mixture of polyurethane and wax, essentially, and gives 'the same' effect as BLO and turps.

 

First choice, RLO, repeat in 3 months, then repeat every 6 months.

[Sniffie]

Thought I should post some of my home made lathe tools to defuse the Friday free for all! From the left, this was supposed to be the mother of all round nose scrapers, 22 mm thick by 100 mm wide leaf spring from a lorry cut in half with acetylene torch. Something went wrong with my heat treatment and annealing and the point snapped off after 5 mins of use. Scary! Next two scrapers made from Radex about 15 mm x 25 mm. Then some chisels and scrapers from old files. Next is a bedan made from square key steel, and then 2 bowl gouges, still to get handles, made from an old gorilla type steering wheel lock. At the bottom some bead cutting as well as cove cutting scrapers made from anything like an old 6 mm chisel, old files, and old screwdrivers.

[Pants Boy]

Those bowl gouges ... 

[alleyne]

I think it depends on what you are trying to do - 30/70 mix does not do very well as a first fix finish - but adding varnish to it should help a lot - especially in the uv stabilisation of it.

 

Mostly outdoor wooden furniture etc

[Captain Fastbastard Mayhem]

Mostly outdoor wooden furniture etc

also depends what wood it is. If it's balau / indo teak, you mustn't use varnish at all. 

[Bobbo_SA]

Thought I should post some of my home made lathe tools to defuse the Friday free for all! From the left, this was supposed to be the mother of all round nose scrapers, 22 mm thick by 100 mm wide leaf spring from a lorry cut in half with acetylene torch. Something went wrong with my heat treatment and annealing and the point snapped off after 5 mins of use. Scary! Next two scrapers made from Radex about 15 mm x 25 mm. Then some chisels and scrapers from old files. Next is a bedan made from square key steel, and then 2 bowl gouges, still to get handles, made from an old gorilla type steering wheel lock. At the bottom some bead cutting as well as cove cutting scrapers made from anything like an old 6 mm chisel, old files, and old screwdrivers.

 

Happen to watch Forged in Fire last night? 

 

They had to do a Scottish Claymore and the first guy's heat treatment sucked that his one bent on the first blow, he had given up when the second one was tested and although it penetrated as soon as it hit the solid stuff (a pig spine which was being used to test on) it shattered.

 

They gave the first guy a chance to straighten his blade for the second test but would not trust the left over part of the over-heated one.

[Sniffie]

Those bowl gouges ...

Hopefully they work OK. Not prepared to shell out 1500 to 2000 bucks for a Robert Sorby. My Lathe is not even worth that much! I spended about an hour on each grinding out the flute and bevel, carefull not to overheat the steel. Will give some feedback once I started using them. Edited September 2, 2016 by Sniffie

[Wannabe]

I use a 1:1 ration of Raw Linseed Oil and a decent Turps to treat my Deck. Do it twice a year, just before and after Winter (our rainy season). Before my first treatment I scrubbed the deck with Sugar Soap to get rid of the old oil (previous owner also oiled it)

After treatment it shines like new for a long time.

[AlanD]

RAW Linseed oil (it takes longer to dry than BLO, and creates a better coat) Otherwise Woodoc 30 or 35 (if you want to darken the wood a bit) - it's polywax, so a mixture of polyurethane and wax, essentially, and gives 'the same' effect as BLO and turps.

 

First choice, RLO, repeat in 3 months, then repeat every 6 months.

Just doing some googling and cam across some negatives of Linseed Oil:

1) Sometimes linseed oil can take forever to dry... or stays sticky or doesn't dry at all!!

2) No UV (ultraviolet) light resistance...

3) Linseed oil is mildew food...

4) Linseed oil does not harden sufficiently

5) Difficult to remove from wood...

 

Is this a concern? Worried about the UV protection it's the lapa poles which is obviously outside. The Woodoc 30 looks like a good option

[Long Wheel Base]

RAW Linseed oil (it takes longer to dry than BLO, and creates a better coat) Otherwise Woodoc 30 or 35 (if you want to darken the wood a bit) - it's polywax, so a mixture of polyurethane and wax, essentially, and gives 'the same' effect as BLO and turps.

 

First choice, RLO, repeat in 3 months, then repeat every 6 months.

A buddy of mine bought a product called Totim. Its made by woodoc. Any good?

[alleyne]

also depends what wood it is. If it's balau / indo teak, you mustn't use varnish at all. 

 

That's asking a lot, no idea! Next visit you can let me know or buy it cause i'll be selling it for some much need dosh