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Posted

yes to the twitchiness, takes some getting use to, even more so on a tri bike which has an aero fork

 

As for placement of clip ons, try a few different and see what works... if you are considering a bike set up for a TT position then the pads and bars will be set correctly for stack and reach.

 

I had my tri bike set up at SBR Sports http://sbrsport.co.za/, think was cheaper than R1.5k and fairly happy with.

 

My road bike was set up by cyclefit http://www.cyclefit.co.za/, think they will also do a set up for TT/Tri

 

Edit: I see cyclefit are doing a winter special with 25% off http://cyclefit1.createsend.com/t/ViewEmailArchive/d/CDFC49B712117C8F/C67FD2F38AC4859C/

Thanks for the tips.

 

I will continue to trial different setups of the elbow cups and the overall forward/aft setup.

 

If I am not totally confident I'll definitely try Cyclefit with their discount special. I thus have until end of June to try to get it right myself.

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Posted

Is it worth getting a tri bike over just using a road bike with tri bars and the correct setup?

As travisza said it is basically a compromise, if you got the money get a tri bike, if not, you can modify your road bike with clip on bars and forward seat post to get a similar position and as aero as possible on a road bike.

 

So if you have the bucks have both, else you will have to keep adjusting the geometry and bars on the bike when you change from road races, to tri's and back to road racing. Whereas if you got both you just jump on either depending on event, no messing around with your setups.

 

There is also logic and some science that a tri/TT bike with the forward position makes you more aero, therefore quicker, but also opens up your riding position so that you use other muscles more than your quads... which in theory means you are fresher/stronger for the run.  Something you try to replicate on a road bike by adjusting the geometry and set up.

 

Plenty of articles online, here one http://www.trinewbies.com/tno_cycling/tno_cyclearticle_02.asp

Posted

Regarding an Aero position on a road bike:

 

I got a road bike in the start of the year. I had a proper Retul bikefit and I must say I am very comfortable in the drops and on the hoods. Probably worth the R1.5k spent on comfort alone. I rode the Emperors race almost exclusively in the Drops and were comfortable all the way.

 

Meanwhile I got myself some Clip-on Aero Bars, a Fast Forward seatpost and an additional Saddle. This way I can set up the bike for aero and mark the position and only swap out the seat assembly and remove the clip-ons when I want to do normal road riding as opposed to Aero riding.

 

I went out for a ride with the aero setup for the first time this past weekend. I had only done a setup on the IDT beforehand based on feel and somewhat on what I saw from a side-on reflection of where I sit on the bike.

 

What I noticed immediately once I was on the road, was that the bike is incredibly twitchy in the Aero Position. So much so that I don't feel confident riding alongside cars on the road, I only got into Aero when I knew there were no cars around.

 

There was a noticeable speed difference in the Aero position, at least 5km/h, so I am sure the Aero position is worth the effort.

 

Now the questions:

 

-Will a forward/aero position on a normal road bike always feel relatively twitchy?

 

-The elbow-cups were place relatively close to each other, will it help the twitchyness(if that is a word?) if I move them to a position furthest away from the centreline? So instead of having the forearms parallel they will be making a pizza slice.

 

-The seat is slammed as far forward as the setup allows, will this contribute to the twitchyness?

 

-Can someone suggest a bike fitter in the Pretoria/Gauteng area which might be able to help me with my setup that is a bit cheaper that R1.5k?

 

common problem when getting onto aero bars, you will get better the more you ride in the aero position. I'd give it a few more rides and concentrate on keeping your upper body as still as possible, use those abs :)  i'd take a little twitching for 5 km/h :)

Posted

As travisza said it is basically a compromise, if you got the money get a tri bike, if not, you can modify your road bike with clip on bars and forward seat post to get a similar position and as aero as possible on a road bike.

 

So if you have the bucks have both, else you will have to keep adjusting the geometry and bars on the bike when you change from road races, to tri's and back to road racing. Whereas if you got both you just jump on either depending on event, no messing around with your setups.

 

There is also logic and some science that a tri/TT bike with the forward position makes you more aero, therefore quicker, but also opens up your riding position so that you use other muscles more than your quads... which in theory means you are fresher/stronger for the run.  Something you try to replicate on a road bike by adjusting the geometry and set up.

 

Plenty of articles online, here one http://www.trinewbies.com/tno_cycling/tno_cyclearticle_02.asp

Thanks interesting read, especially how it affects different bodily functions and muscle groups so will have to start looking at getting a TT bike once I have done a few more short tri's to make sure I want to spend the money.

 

I have read that the size difference between road and TT is that the TT bike is 1 to 2 sizes (50 - 52 cm) smaller then the road bike (54 cm).

 

Currently I have a Small (Merida Scultura 4000) road bike, not sure about cm. What size should I look for a TT bike?

Posted (edited)

Thanks interesting read, especially how it affects different bodily functions and muscle groups so will have to start looking at getting a TT bike once I have done a few more short tri's to make sure I want to spend the money.

 

I have read that the size difference between road and TT is that the TT bike is 1 to 2 sizes (50 - 52 cm) smaller then the road bike (54 cm).

 

Currently I have a Small (Merida Scultura 4000) road bike, not sure about cm. What size should I look for a TT bike?

More interesting reading for you which sorts of debunks that theory, but is always open to interpretation http://www.hodska.com/tribikemyths.html

 

Better to get measuring and base the bike size on what fits you depending on the manufacturers geometry of their frame.

 

As a good starting point download the spreadsheet from felt bikes http://www.feltbicycles.com/International/Single-Nav/Inside-Felt/Resources/Bike-Sizing.aspx

 

I ride a 55cm road bike, my TT is 54cm, and because am more flexible now being use to riding TT am considering a 56cm if I ever change it to get flatter and more aero, but that is just specific to me. Even my bike set up highlighted could go bigger. Or maybe will just change the stem length.

Edited by shaper
Posted

Thanks interesting read, especially how it affects different bodily functions and muscle groups so will have to start looking at getting a TT bike once I have done a few more short tri's to make sure I want to spend the money.

 

I have read that the size difference between road and TT is that the TT bike is 1 to 2 sizes (50 - 52 cm) smaller then the road bike (54 cm).

 

Currently I have a Small (Merida Scultura 4000) road bike, not sure about cm. What size should I look for a TT bike?

 

PLEASE listen to shaper here. There is no rule to say a XXcm road bike means that you are a XXcm tri bike.

 

The mistake alot of people make is looking at a picture of a tribike, thinking that one looks fast, and then buying it without knowing that it will fit them. The geometry can vary greatly from manufacturer to manufacturer and even between their models.

 

You need to get a fit, an idea of your stack and reach and then go from there. The fastest tri bike is often the one that fits you the best = you are most comfortable in the aero position = you dont consistently sit up to stretch out.

 

Some more good reading: http://www.slowtwitch.com/Bike_Fit/Choosing_a_Tri_Bike_via_Stack_and_Reach/index.html

Posted

PLEASE listen to shaper here. There is no rule to say a XXcm road bike means that you are a XXcm tri bike.

 

The mistake alot of people make is looking at a picture of a tribike, thinking that one looks fast, and then buying it without knowing that it will fit them. The geometry can vary greatly from manufacturer to manufacturer and even between their models.

 

You need to get a fit, an idea of your stack and reach and then go from there. The fastest tri bike is often the one that fits you the best = you are most comfortable in the aero position = you dont consistently sit up to stretch out.

 

Some more good reading: http://www.slowtwitch.com/Bike_Fit/Choosing_a_Tri_Bike_via_Stack_and_Reach/index.html

Thanks Guys.

 

Will be doing a lot more research and trying different bikes and sizes till I find one that suits me best, but you guys have helped with the just of what I need.

 

Now its time for training to make sure tris are the future.

Posted (edited)

Thanks Guys.

 

Will be doing a lot more research and trying different bikes and sizes till I find one that suits me best, but you guys have helped with the just of what I need.

 

Now its time for training to make sure tris are the future.

Training and gaining the most benefit

 

If you swim at your gym pool, speak to the swim instructor/coach there and consider asking for stroke correction and lessons to improve your technique.  Better technique; quicker and easier to swim.  There may also be swim squads which you can join (usually an hour session), will improve stamina, strength, speed and distance you swim.  Will also make the swim less boring than just pounding out lengths.  

 

You already bike, if possible try to do a brick run session after a cycle, get off the bike and immediately go for a 2-5km run.  Will help train your body, even if is just a 1km run.

 

When cycling practice the 4th discipline (nutrition), it is the only time you have to fuel your body for both the cycle and run, some eat and drink based on time, I eat and drink based on calories burned and my garmin beeps at me constantly to remind me I need to eat/drink to replace and fuel my body.  When I road race, I hardly eat and drink, when I tri I stuff my face with both as still have to run.  Plenty of reading online with regard to nutrition, required intake etc.

 

If you do get a tri bike or buy aero bars to alter your road bike, have a bike setup done so that you are comfortable spending hours in the aero position.  Expect neck and shoulder ache when you start as you try to look forward when in the aero position.

 

Become a runner.  Personally I find this the hardest and takes the most out of my body. Build distance slowly. Going too far too quickly is where you pick up injury and especially an ITB injury that can put training on hold for a long time.

 

Do strength and core exercises as well as train for swim, cycle and run.

 

Finally whatever race you do, whether a sprint, olympic, ultra or full ... enjoy and be proud that firstly to got the start line (it takes time, discipline and training to get there), enjoy the race and the challenge (you are pushing yourself whether fast or slow).  Enjoy crossing the finish line (you have achieved)

Edited by shaper
Posted

Get a coach. Seriously, swimming is so much about technique, and my guess is that if you are swimming slower than 1:40ish then technique is likely the limiting factor.

 

A little better technique can go along way vs just fighting the water with more effort.

 

So most people here do a sub 27 mile?! I still have a lot of minutes to shave off  :eek:

 

BUT I'm biting the bullet and sinking some cash into our super-special pool(???) - I had a whole thread dedicated to it - by increasing training frequency: swimming 3 times a week (instead of 1)... for 2 weeks now showed some "instant" improvement. Kind of common sense seeing I only swam once a week.

 

I can get start to get the sense of glide - but more on one side than the other. Dunno if it's a OTB-shoulder-ACL injury still nagging. But the point being: improvement!

Posted (edited)

So most people here do a sub 27 mile?! I still have a lot of minutes to shave off  :eek:

 

BUT I'm biting the bullet and sinking some cash into our super-special pool(???) - I had a whole thread dedicated to it - by increasing training frequency: swimming 3 times a week (instead of 1)... for 2 weeks now showed some "instant" improvement. Kind of common sense seeing I only swam once a week.

 

I can get start to get the sense of glide - but more on one side than the other. Dunno if it's a OTB-shoulder-ACL injury still nagging. But the point being: improvement!

Or most people could do with some coaching????? I think my point was really that if you have an ok technique you should be swimming 1:40s pretty easily. (1:40s is just the number I picked....I'm sure there are people who will disagree with me)

 

Edited: This is the internet, people will defintitely disagree with me!

Edited by travisza
Posted

Or most people could do with some coaching????? I think my point was really that if you have an ok technique you should be swimming 1:40s pretty easily. (1:40s is just the number I picked....I'm sure there are people who will disagree with me)

 

Edited: This is the internet, people will defintitely disagree with me!

 

Yes, I totally agree with you on the coaching part. Especially with swimming. But the bike maintenence (offorad), running shoe costs (trail and road), race costs and swimming costs count up :( I had single coaching session not too long ago just to get the basic pointers. Too expensive to do weekly.

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