Onza tires leaking

[_im_from_earth]

I have put Onza tires on Rapide rims using Ryder sealant at recommended amount of 125ml per wheel - 29er. After 2 rides noticed Canis on rear is losing pressure overnight (run at 1.6 and drops to 1) Ibex on front is fine. Both are 120tpi as per label although the Canis sidewall feels thinner. Did a test and saw leakage is through sidewall, very slight and in many places.

So...do I add more sealant or try get a replacement?

 

Issue is combination of sealant and tyre. You need a latex based sealant, the thicker sealant will not work effectively to line the tyre DM me if you need any advise or have any issues further, but we will get you sorted.

[_im_from_earth]

i have fitted a brand new ONZA tyre and the first 1 had a packaging tear in the sidewall, which the bike shop swapped out as i noticed it immediately. the replacement however is leaking as per the comments, i think is BS that a brand new tyre can leak air through the side wall.

 

I hear you, and I'm glad the store replaced the first set for you. As far as leaking through the sidewall from new, remember almost all tyres on the market these days are "tubeless ready", the days of UST tyres are done. Tubeless ready essentially means a tubeless bead to seal up against the rim, with a lightweight casing that requires sealant in order to seal any porous holes. Due to variation in the rubber penetration / adhesion to the casing / carcass in manufacture this can vary from one tyre to the next, even out of the same production run. Another thing to take into consideration is sealant, now while a thicker sealant "may" work more effectively to seal larger sidewall cuts, generally its consistency is too thick to seal these small porous holes within the casing that are easily sealed by thinner latex sealants. One of the biggest difficulties we have in pinpointing these "problems" is the huge variety of sealants prevalent in the SA market, not to mention the "home made" styles, and "value" products that are often purchased in huge volumes for the workshop.

 

Sealant itself is also a complicated issue... as I mentioned, too thick and it doesn't seal small holes, but too thin, or not with sufficient binding agents / latex etc and it doesn't work either. As a sealant supplier ourselves, we insist on not producing or offering sealant in QTY larger than 2.5l as anything larger than this is simply impossible to shake adequately in order to properly distribute and mix the particles contained within the sealant. Additionally, we outright refuse to compromise the performance of our sealant by manipulating the recipe and reducing some of the costly ingredients.

 

Bottom line: ensure rim and rim tape are in good condition and clean prior to mounting. Use a good quality latex sealant. Pump to the MFG suggest pressure. Ensure the tyre is correctly and evenly seated. Shake and rotate the tyre to distribute the sealant. After all this you may experience a drop in pressure for the first day or two, and in-between long periods of inactivity, but this is completely normal.

[MphatiPyga]

Had the same issue when I replaced my rear tyre with a Canis, but it came right after the stans settled.

 

My one issue is this seems to be one squishy tyre, anything under 1.9 and it feels like it wants to come off the rim in a corner. Seems to me that the side wall must be very soft, and my experience with them are contra to the reviews I have read on them. It is a decent grippy tyre, kinda noisy somehow, but low pressure nah! Oh and this is on wide rims?

[Theunissa]

I hear you, and I'm glad the store replaced the first set for you. As far as leaking through the sidewall from new, remember almost all tyres on the market these days are "tubeless ready", the days of UST tyres are done. Tubeless ready essentially means a tubeless bead to seal up against the rim, with a lightweight casing that requires sealant in order to seal any porous holes. Due to variation in the rubber penetration / adhesion to the casing / carcass in manufacture this can vary from one tyre to the next, even out of the same production run. Another thing to take into consideration is sealant, now while a thicker sealant "may" work more effectively to seal larger sidewall cuts, generally its consistency is too thick to seal these small porous holes within the casing that are easily sealed by thinner latex sealants. One of the biggest difficulties we have in pinpointing these "problems" is the huge variety of sealants prevalent in the SA market, not to mention the "home made" styles, and "value" products that are often purchased in huge volumes for the workshop.

 

Sealant itself is also a complicated issue... as I mentioned, too thick and it doesn't seal small holes, but too thin, or not with sufficient binding agents / latex etc and it doesn't work either. As a sealant supplier ourselves, we insist on not producing or offering sealant in QTY larger than 2.5l as anything larger than this is simply impossible to shake adequately in order to properly distribute and mix the particles contained within the sealant. Additionally, we outright refuse to compromise the performance of our sealant by manipulating the recipe and reducing some of the costly ingredients.

 

Bottom line: ensure rim and rim tape are in good condition and clean prior to mounting. Use a good quality latex sealant. Pump to the MFG suggest pressure. Ensure the tyre is correctly and evenly seated. Shake and rotate the tyre to distribute the sealant. After all this you may experience a drop in pressure for the first day or two, and in-between long periods of inactivity, but this is completely normal.

i don't agree that latex is the "BE ALL" sealant. Granted im new to cycling and not a expert but I've been running water based slime and it jas lasted me since october. I have some vicious thorns where i stay and it seals up. It took a few days to seal microscopic holes on side wall but it sealed

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[_im_from_earth]

^^ Latex definitely isn't the "be all", its just far superior at sealing small holes within the tyre casing.

[Sepia]

What I am using now is Survival (as BAGear said)and then topping up with Stans once the Survival has coated the inside of the tire. Used this on a non tubeless tire which bled badly and lost air. It is now 100's.

[_im_from_earth]

What I am using now is Survival (as BAGear said)and then topping up with Stans once the Survival has coated the inside of the tire. Used this on a non tubeless tire which bled badly and lost air. It is now 100's.

 

I don't even know what Survival is... But at least you're sorted

[Captain Fastbastard Mayhem]

Had the same issue when I replaced my rear tyre with a Canis, but it came right after the stans settled.

 

My one issue is this seems to be one squishy tyre, anything under 1.9 and it feels like it wants to come off the rim in a corner. Seems to me that the side wall must be very soft, and my experience with them are contra to the reviews I have read on them. It is a decent grippy tyre, kinda noisy somehow, but low pressure nah! Oh and this is on wide rims?

Yeah the canis we get here is the soft one. Needs at least a FRC casing to prevent excessive roll.

[_im_from_earth]

Yeah the canis we get here is the soft one. Needs at least a FRC casing to prevent excessive roll.

 

Actually, all of the Canis since late last year (When the FRC was launched as an option on the Canis) have been FRC Much more durable and supportive casing.

[MphatiPyga]

Actually, all of the Canis since late last year (When the FRC was launched as an option on the Canis) have been FRC Much more durable and supportive casing.

Where do I see if it is FRC?

[Captain Fastbastard Mayhem]

Actually, all of the Canis since late last year (When the FRC was launched as an option on the Canis) have been FRC Much more durable and supportive casing.

Brilliant. Thanks for the correction!

[Captain Fastbastard Mayhem]

Where do I see if it is FRC?

Says it on the sidewall. Also remember that you may have bought some old stock...

Edited February 15, 2017 by Myles Mayhew

[MphatiPyga]

Says it on the sidewall. Also remember that you may have bought some old stock...

It's a lot of money for a tyre I'm not totally happy with

[Oldtmr]

I did a tubeless conversion this weekend with maxxis chronicle tyres on stans hugo 52 rims sealed up 100% without any sealant only added sealant the next day

[Frank.Hutt]

Issue is combination of sealant and tyre. You need a latex based sealant, the thicker sealant will not work effectively to line the tyre DM me if you need any advise or have any issues further, but we will get you sorted.

 

Thanks been going well with the water based sealant for a good few months now - no leakage. Only thing I found is to run slightly higher pressure and have not needed a top up.

[Captain Fastbastard Mayhem]

It's a lot of money for a tyre I'm not totally happy with

oh, absolutely. I'm done with thin sidewalls. Even snakeskin / grid / FRC casings aren't gonna make the grade when I get a new set of tyres.