Is it tubeless?

[leeubok]

A sidewall cut has forced me to dig out all my spare tyres. I've got an oldish set of schwalbe rocket rons that wasn't used much. How do I tell if they're tubeless ready, other than putting them on and see if it leaks? It doesn't say tubeless on the tyres..

 

Other choices I have are taking off the maxxis crossmark lust from my ht, one continental x king and a spez fast trak. The continental is new, others been used but tread still good

[Captain Fastbastard Mayhem]

If it says EVO TLR on it, it's tubeless ready. If it's got EVO TLE on it, it's the newer Tubeless Easy version.

 

If its a Performance version, it's not. But it can be set up tubeless with loads of sealant to seal all the pores in the sidewalls. 

[s14phoenix]

so what does it say??? Performance line? Evo? Snakeskin?

 

If it just says Rocket Ron and Schwalbe and nothing else... they probably OEM non tubeless.

 

If they "EVO" they can be made tubeless but not very puncture friendly and they may bleed a lot of sealant.

 

Performance is non tubeless - Snakeskin is tubeless like Myles said...

[leeubok]

It says performance line. So that means it's not actually tubeless but you could make it? Eish, I don't have a lot of stans left so will have to go with one of the others. Doing hill2hill this weekend and I'll only get to a shop on Friday.

 

Thanks for the advice. You guys sure are clever

[Capricorn]

hmm, when Schwalbe says TLR/TLE, its referring to only the tyre bead being compliant with the tubeless standard, not the sidewall or the rest of the carcass. So no matter which version you use, you still going to need to dope that thing full of sealant. The side wall variations only alter the amount of sealant needed.

 

But in general, almost any tyre and rim combo can be converted to tubeless.

[Captain Fastbastard Mayhem]

hmm, when Schwalbe says TLR/TLE, its referring to only the tyre bead being compliant with the tubeless standard, not the sidewall or the rest of the carcass. So no matter which version you use, you still going to need to dope that thing full of sealant. The side wall variations only alter the amount of sealant needed.

 

But in general, almost any tyre and rim combo can be converted to tubeless.

Did not know that, thanks Cap. 

[CASSIE1975]

hmm, when Schwalbe says TLR/TLE, its referring to only the tyre bead being compliant with the tubeless standard, not the sidewall or the rest of the carcass. So no matter which version you use, you still going to need to dope that thing full of sealant. The side wall variations only alter the amount of sealant needed.

 

But in general, almost any tyre and rim combo can be converted to tubeless.

 

Interesting thanx Cap

[NotSoBigBen]

Some bright lads here, you never to old to learn 

[Allrounder]

what advantages are there to tubeless?? 

[Odinson]

what advantages are there to tubeless?? 

 

The lack of tjoops.

[Captain Fastbastard Mayhem]

what advantages are there to tubeless?? 

Puncture protection (through proper use of sealant) 

Lower pressures = better grip & better rolling resistance (the air uses the whole tyre & rim profile vs a cylindrical bladder therefore there's a higher volume of air in the tyre which means you can run it at lower pressures)

No more snakebites (unless you get it REALLY wrong)

 

It's just BETTER. 

[mtbride]

Puncture protection (through proper use of sealant) 

Lower pressures = better grip & better rolling resistance (the air uses the whole tyre & rim profile vs a cylindrical bladder therefore there's a higher volume of air in the tyre which means you can run it at lower pressures)

No more snakebites (unless you get it REALLY wrong)

 

It's just BETTER. 

 

And much quicker repairs if a plug is needed for big holes, instead of patch and solution etc.

[bikebloke]

 

If its a Performance version, it's not. But it can be set up tubeless with loads of sealant to seal all the pores in the sidewalls. 

 

so how much sealant would you say is loads and once it works is it reliable

 

reason I ask is I have a set of racing ralphs and id also really like to use then rather than buy new tyres this summer but they are performance line so....(see above )

[Capricorn]

so how much sealant would you say is loads and once it works is it reliable

 

reason I ask is I have a set of racing ralphs and id also really like to use then rather than buy new tyres this summer but they are performance line so....(see above )

 

I have some schwalbe slicks that were definitely not intended for tubeless applications, and that was pretty evident once the sealant started popping through the whole carcass as little white bubbles. It took three days of sealant top-ups and reinflation before it sealed. Then it stayed sealed until i broke the bead seal which was almost a year later. It would still deflate very slowly if left standing, or once the sealant had been consumed, but one top-up and it was good to go for another few months or weeks, depending on much riding I did.

 

So don't give up too easily.

[Christofison]

so how much sealant would you say is loads and once it works is it reliable

 

reason I ask is I have a set of racing ralphs and id also really like to use then rather than buy new tyres this summer but they are performance line so....(see above )

I use the performance Racing Ralph's on a tubeless setup, even though they're not tubeless ready. Used the standard two scoops of sealant and have never had any seepage through the sidewalls.

 

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[JXV]

so how much sealant would you say is loads and once it works is it reliable

 

reason I ask is I have a set of racing ralphs and id also really like to use then rather than buy new tyres this summer but they are performance line so....(see above )

The Stans website says 120ml per tyre for a 29er but you can get away with about 60ml per tyre.

 

The sealant gradually dries/leaks out so you need topups every 3 to 6 months.

 

Big advantage is that punctures from thorns seal up as you ride and you'll never know until you take the tyre off one day and shred your fingertips on all the old thorns poking through on the inside. Snake bites don't happen unless you hit a sharp edge very hard.

 

All round better. I carry a spare tube in my camelbak just in case...but haven't needed it in 2 years..

 

Big issue is that you need to tape your rims and they need to be airtight at the joint and able to accept a tubeless valve.

 

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