AdamA Posted October 20, 2016 Posted October 20, 2016 They'll warp. The discs, that is. Thanks for the reply Myles, excuse my ignorance, but why would they Warp?
Captain Fastbastard Mayhem Posted October 20, 2016 Posted October 20, 2016 Thanks for the reply Myles, excuse my ignorance, but why would they Warp?because the metal sintered pads operate at a higher temperature than the resin pads would.
AdamA Posted October 20, 2016 Posted October 20, 2016 because the metal sintered pads operate at a higher temperature than the resin pads would. Thanks Myles I have been running Avid Elixir R brakes with metal sintered pads against Shimano Resin Only discs for 18 months. maybe i haven't got the temperature high enough but.... No Warping Bike: Giant Anthem 29 X3Rider weight: 100KgAve Speed: 15km/h I only do about 200km a month and don't do that much down hill - Spruit, Cradle, Northern farms, with the odd Race in Magaliesberg I did experience brake fade once coming down Northcliff hill on the tar
mudda Posted October 20, 2016 Posted October 20, 2016 like the guys said .. if you using 160mm change to 180mm disks semi-metalic vs resin is for brake fade - you should know if you getting fade by the amount of "bite" you getting from pressure on the brake lever after long breaking ... like on steep downhill .. you will know if you get brake fade on a downhill ... Also - if you just washed your bike with soap - or degreased and re-lubed your chain, you may get some residue on your disk - which will increase braking distance on the first stop ..
MTBeer Posted October 20, 2016 Posted October 20, 2016 http://scontent.cdninstagram.com/t51.2885-15/e35/11428178_612463908895210_411170303_n.jpg?ig_cache_key=MTAzMzQzNDUxMTY1MDE1MTA5MQ%3D%3D.2
porqui Posted October 20, 2016 Posted October 20, 2016 All up weight of 140kg at 65km/h down to 20km/h in 30 to 40m I would say that is not bad at all. That's a reduction of 45km/h over 30 to 40m. I have to pedal my m.... off to get 65/70 downhill on my road bike.
s14phoenix Posted October 20, 2016 Posted October 20, 2016 http://scontent.cdninstagram.com/t51.2885-15/e35/11428178_612463908895210_411170303_n.jpg?ig_cache_key=MTAzMzQzNDUxMTY1MDE1MTA5MQ%3D%3D.2 theres always one... maybe that's why I haven't replaced my metal pads in 2 years...
V12man Posted October 20, 2016 Posted October 20, 2016 theres always one... maybe that's why I haven't replaced my metal pads in 2 years... It would help if you rode the bike more than once a year....
rudi-h Posted October 20, 2016 Posted October 20, 2016 That problem isn't weight or pad related.. something wrong with your brake setup and you might need more brake fluid in those tubes. Any well setup hydraulic disc brake will instantly lock up your rear wheel and will very likely be able to throw you over the bars upfront. The brake pad material shouldn't do too much to instantaneous stopping power in good weather condtions. The difference comes in with different weather conditions, durability and ability to absorb / conduct heat which changes how long it takes for brake fade to set in.
Paul Ruinaard Posted October 20, 2016 Posted October 20, 2016 180 on the front and 203 on the back would help I think you mean the other way around? 70 to 80 % of your power is in the front disc. Unless you are doing DH or are on a tandem you cant possibly use 203 on the back. I am a big guy and easily lock the back with 180's....
100Tours Posted October 20, 2016 Posted October 20, 2016 Try find a 180mm disk and the appropriate disk adapter off the hub. You might even get a swap. It is worth it for the front. Hell if you find the disk I'll dig out an adapter for you. And keep your weight back
Paul Ruinaard Posted October 20, 2016 Posted October 20, 2016 THink everyone has said it already, but just some observations: 1.) Resin pads bite harder and consequently heat up more and fade more than sintered metal. The heat doesnt dissipate as well so they dont work for continued heavy braking efforts, like DH. Sintered metal are much better for this. They bite less but fade less.2.) Resin gets destroyed in mud or rain. They crumble.3.) Its expensive but brakes for me are non negotiable. Ice Tec rotors with sintered metal pads, possibly with heat sinks if you can get them, 203 mm front and 180mm back discs as a start will likely fix your problems.4.) Then you can make a call as to whether you need to go new brakes overall. If you still can't stop it (you aren't a small guy) maybe a dual piston caliper like a Saint on the front would be a good investment. After resin pads cost me and my partner dearly in 2 x stage races I always throw resin pads away and replace with sintered metal. THey will destroy your day if you get into mud and rain. Truly not worth the risks.
JXV Posted October 20, 2016 Posted October 20, 2016 Ok so on a recent semi-down hill section on a road I reached a speed of around 65km/h and pulled the breaks....Took me around 30-40m to slow down to around 20km/h which I thought was a bit dangerous, especially if I would need to stop to avoid a collision or avoid something in an emergency (swerving aside)!While pulling the breaks I had that horrible feeling you usually get when dreaming and trying to stop and nothing happens :/. It felt as though I was gong to snap the brake lever off I was pulling so hard! Taking into account that I am around 125kg's (140kg's with bike and gear) and using resin pads, am I expecting too much of the bike and components to slow me down effectively given my inertia and weight? I have been looking on quite a few Internet forums, most of which are based overseas, and it seems normale for bikes to come out with resin pads as they are cheaper, but I have also discovered that my rotors are resin only as well! The general consensus for changing to metal brake pads would be if you were running in wet and muddy conditions or if you are a heavy rider and wanted a pad that lasts longer. The downside being that the metal is noisier and takes longer to bed in. I have also read on here and have been told that should I sldecide to partake in various events in SA that it is advisable to change to metal pads as the resin variants may only last for half the race! Am I over thinking this or will I actually get by with resin pads (as long as I carry a spare set). It would have been great if I could just drop in a set of metal pads but I would unfortunately have to upgrade the rotor too which I would like to try and avoid due to tight and non-existent funds after buying a new bike.The breaks I have are the shimano m506 with m447 calipers. The disk says resin only and part number looks to be m51cl.Resin pads actually bite better than metal in my experience Given your weight you would benefit from the largest discs you can fit on your frame and fork. This is usually 203mm front and 180 rear for mountain bikes. This your cheapest fix. And BTW, a lot of MTB frames cannot mount a 203mm rotor on the rear because either the seat/chainstays are not rated for the extra leverage and/or the caliper position can foul the frame depending on the location of the mounts. Next cheapest fix is to upgrade the discs to Ice-tech (RT81 for centrelock or RT86 for 6-bolt)... these have much better heat dissipation and they do not fade as quickly because they run cooler. The brakes you have do not offer the strongest stopping power in the Shimano range. Deore/SLX/XT will bite a bit harder and they offer the option of metal pads and/or finned pads for better heat dissipation. Saint/Zee will probably give you the best stopping power in Shimano range because these have four-piston calipers....but they are pricey. All these other brakes are superior to the M506 because they use stiffer hydraulic hose, have bigger pad surface area and have better camming (servo-wave) on the brake levers. If you plan to upgrade and budget is tight, Deore calipers will give you almost all the braking power of SLX and XT and the same pad choices - just less options for adjustment. Before buying any new kit though, check your existing brakes are in top working order : discs/pads in good condition and not contaminated, calipers aligned to discs, no air bubbles in the hydraulic system ( this causes spongy lever, fade and poor braking power. Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk
ShanRam Posted October 20, 2016 Posted October 20, 2016 "It felt as though I was gong to snap the brake lever off I was pulling so hard!" this sentence caught my attention - if you pulled so hard at that speed going downhill, your tires should have locked up throwing you over the handle bars. Could it be that you need a proper brake service? BTW, bigger rotors always helps but will not make a difference if your brakes are not set up properly
JXV Posted October 20, 2016 Posted October 20, 2016 "It felt as though I was gong to snap the brake lever off I was pulling so hard!" this sentence caught my attention - if you pulled so hard at that speed going downhill, your tires should have locked up throwing you over the handle bars. Could it be that you need a proper brake service? BTW, bigger rotors always helps but will not make a difference if your brakes are not set up properlyIf you pulling so hard on the levers and getting no bite on the pads then the most likely culprit is contamination of the discs and pads. Second most likely is brake fade but this only kicks in after the pads have over-heated so it happens some way into a long descent but not from the outset. Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk
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