Captain Fastbastard Mayhem Posted February 20, 2017 Share sheesh, dude. Sounds like you're having a right 'mare getting it to seal properly. FWIW some valves are extremely sensitive wrt the tightness of the seal. Too loose and they leak, too tight and they distort and leak, and it can take a while for the right tightness to be attained. I've never had a problem with gorilla / duck tape before. It's always been the valve that's been at fault, and it's been HELLUVA frustrating getting it the right tightness. There may also be a tiny burr on the valve hole, preventing a perfect seal. There may be a sliiight air pocket somewhere, or an improper seal on the tape at a single point. If air gets under the tape (regardless of where) it'll go wherever it wants to and may come out of a spoke hole / valve hole depending on where the least resistance is. So don't trust the under the water route for diagnosing the source, unless it actually comes from the valve itself which will mean a duff valve core. Have you checked that, yet? I've also seen brand new valves not having the valve core tightened up enough. THAT one was a bitch to diagnose.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BaGearA Posted February 20, 2017 Share sheesh, dude. Sounds like you're having a right 'mare getting it to seal properly. FWIW some valves are extremely sensitive wrt the tightness of the seal. Too loose and they leak, too tight and they distort and leak, and it can take a while for the right tightness to be attained. I've never had a problem with gorilla / duck tape before. It's always been the valve that's been at fault, and it's been HELLUVA frustrating getting it the right tightness. There may also be a tiny burr on the valve hole, preventing a perfect seal. There may be a sliiight air pocket somewhere, or an improper seal on the tape at a single point. If air gets under the tape (regardless of where) it'll go wherever it wants to and may come out of a spoke hole / valve hole depending on where the least resistance is. So don't trust the under the water route for diagnosing the source, unless it actually comes from the valve itself which will mean a duff valve core. Have you checked that, yet? I've also seen brand new valves not having the valve core tightened up enough. THAT one was a bitch to diagnose. ... I Always retighten the valve core even if its new , right now I'm just running a thin strip of thick vinyl like tape just in the centre (literally just to cover the holes and its holding ( for now ) checked the valve hole and its perfect. New valve is fairly tight but not too much. Does the gorilla tape not absorb everything and just get mush and heavy ? This has always been the case for me which is why I tend to stay away. I really like the stans tape ( even with the stupid price tag ) but 5 of my local shops don't have it , will try again tomorrow. we'll see if the wheel holds till morning I might just leave it as is. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spock Posted February 20, 2017 Share I always put some puncture glue where the valve goes through the rimtape. Seals the inevitable leak at the valve stem when i over tighten it Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Captain Fastbastard Mayhem Posted February 20, 2017 Share I Always retighten the valve core even if its new , right now I'm just running a thin strip of thick vinyl like tape just in the centre (literally just to cover the holes and its holding ( for now ) checked the valve hole and its perfect. New valve is fairly tight but not too much. Does the gorilla tape not absorb everything and just get mush and heavy ? This has always been the case for me which is why I tend to stay away. I really like the stans tape ( even with the stupid price tag ) but 5 of my local shops don't have it , will try again tomorrow. we'll see if the wheel holds till morning I might just leave it as is.Cool. And not that I've found. There is another option which I saw the other day. Squares of gorilla over the spoke holes, a strip of tube at the valve hole with gorilla tape over that and then clear packing tape around the rim end to end. You know how packing tape sticks.... Haven't tried it myself but I may do that next time. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
the nerd Posted February 20, 2017 Share On my 45's im literally running tape just wide enough to cover the spoke holes... so width isnt the issue here! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sparki 1 Posted February 20, 2017 Share This fred is making me feel like I'm lucky to get me rims on both my mtb's to seal with 2 layers of insulation tape and one layer of checkers brand duct tape cut down the middle. Oh....I use the round tapered valves and stans sealant. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
popcorn_skollie Posted February 20, 2017 Share you may have an odd shaped hole I'm leaning towards this or a similar problem. Coincidentally, earlier on a friend paid me a surprise visit. I was in the shower and my wife was yelling through the door about whatever but I just carried on. I get dressed and noticed a few missed calls. Ooh. Guess its urgent. Your friend is outside, she said. I make my way downstairs and he greets me with with a smile.Probably one of the most polite people I know. Its not long before I see how frantic he is though. In the back of his car was his arch ex's with one tire half open and a pool of sealant swirling inside it like a bowl of soup. I need some rim tape and your compressor! I told him the same thing I keep telling everyone else. Tubeless...is the Devil. For some reason his valve adapter didn't want the compressor to let air pass through. Couldn't figure out why. Then we tried the floor pump. It worked. Somewhat. Even heard the tyres pop. But after about 10 psi air just started wooshing out the valve hole. Tried a few times with a different valve, same thing. I noticed something and brought it to his attention.The lock nut on the valve would not tighten. I mean it made its way along the thread up to the rim but it kept turning. Even while it was against the rim. I was pretty sure the valve was rotating inside while I tightened the locknut. I'm not sure what tape he had in there but it looked like the yellow stans.I prefer gorilla tape though. Not just because its super sticky. But its thick.Even thicker when you gooi another round. I think the thick tape really helps the seal because it acts like a soft washer between the rim and valve when you tighten it.It helps especially if the rims valve hole is not perfectly round. Anyways I'll have to struggle with him again at a later stage to figure out what the hell is going on. So you're not alone. We feel your pain. There are only two things in this world that will bring good men to their knees. Beautiful women...and seating tubeless rims. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mazambaan Posted February 21, 2017 Share The black art of tubeless. Plenty good advice given so I can only add two small things. Be careful not to move the valve and break its seal when you fit the pump head and pump up the tyre and,if it is the spoke holes, seal each one individually - there is a Sika product that works well for this and remains flexible. and the best of Briteesh luck to you Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BigTom Posted February 21, 2017 Share internal , 35 external. Ended up hot gluing the valve into the rim and seems to be holding. Will report back tomorrow morning Will search for quality 30mm proper tubeless tape and redo everything and see what happens thenStill holding air? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lechatnoir Posted February 21, 2017 Share Not sure if this has been mentioned, but dump the whole wheel in the pool and check for leaks... Takes away the guesswork This sure is frustrating... Once I got mine sorted, I left well alone. Good luck Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dev null Posted February 21, 2017 Share This was exactly why I bought Easton EA90XC rims for my previous 26er MTB. Would buy it again if I had the funds for my 29er. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BigTom Posted February 21, 2017 Share Not sure if this has been mentioned, but dump the whole wheel in the pool and check for leaks... Takes away the guesswork This sure is frustrating... Once I got mine sorted, I left well alone. Good luckIt has Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NotSoBigBen Posted February 21, 2017 Share Not sure if this has been mentioned, but dump the whole wheel in the pool and check for leaks... Takes away the guesswork This sure is frustrating... Once I got mine sorted, I left well alone. Good luck That is cool if it is leaking on the actual tyre or bead ... should it be coming out a spoke hole then you have no idea where it is actually leaking Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BigTom Posted February 21, 2017 Share This was exactly why I bought Easton EA90XC rims for my previous 26er MTB. Would buy it again if I had the funds for my 29er.Got a set of Easton EA70XCT 29er wheels if you are interested. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Captain Fastbastard Mayhem Posted February 21, 2017 Share Not sure if this has been mentioned, but dump the whole wheel in the pool and check for leaks... Takes away the guesswork This sure is frustrating... Once I got mine sorted, I left well alone. Good luckwon't work. There's no way of identifying where the leak is if it's seeping between the tape and rim, as there's a whole body of space between the 2 walls of the rim. Only way that works is in identifying the source of a leak on the tyre itself. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BaGearA Posted February 21, 2017 Share Checked this morning , tyre has not dropped a single PSI . The hunt for proper rim tape will continue ....maybe i'll just leave it as is Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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