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Schwalbe Tyres


cathmtb

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Posted

Hi there

 

Are all Schwalbe tyres tubeless? It doesnt say tubeless ready on it, how do I know for sure?

I think you get both versions. Typically the non tubeless version would be on a new bike in a and up to a certain price range. Then the bike shop can sell you a tubeless conversion on top of the fortune that you have just spent on a new bike.I presume that if it doesnt say tubeless ready, it isnt.
Posted

I have done a few tubeless setups on a mates bike mostly Schwalbe and all sorts.. nics, Hans damf, magic marys even a dirty Dan or something and all seem to hold pressure. On a side note Schwalbe tyres are a mother flufa to get on and off the rim!!! Figured out a nifty trick with three tyres levers a mate and a six pack of your choosing.

Posted

all schwalbes even the ordinary rocket ron pacestars ( the ordinary ones that come with a new bike as mentioned above )can be made to work tubeless in my humble experience

 

the sidewalls weep a bit but they seal up and work 

 

the casings on the basic ones are thinner and more likely to get cut whereas the tubeless ready tyres have a more robust casing

Posted

Tubeless Easy (TLE) or Tubeless Ready (TLR) is the term they use.

The normal performance tyres can probably be converted to tubeless, although the sidewall will seep a lot. The LiteSkin is probably not the best option for tubeless.

Posted

My wife's new bike came with Racing Ralph Evolve PaceStar LiteSkin tyres, and there was just no bloody way I was gonna convince them to seat and seal on the rim, no matter how many air I was pumping into them with the compressor on high and the valve core removed.

 

So, don't even bother. If you somehow by miracle and all the planets aligned get it to seat with a compressor, you are going to be up the creek without a paddle when it burps and comes off the rim in the bush. Not worth tempting fate.

 

BTW, I have both tyres here, 50 km on each, for pasella if someone wants them.

Posted

I have done a few tubeless setups on a mates bike mostly Schwalbe and all sorts.. nics, Hans damf, magic marys even a dirty Dan or something and all seem to hold pressure. On a side note Schwalbe tyres are a mother flufa to get on and off the rim!!! Figured out a nifty trick with three tyres levers a mate and a six pack of your choosing.

 

Just removed a set that came with my Merida .... would not hold pressure ....  and under the slightest pressure drop the rear would swable-wobble around corners !!!  WORST feeling when you are half way through the corner and the rear wheel starts acting up ......  :eek:

 

 

set has not done 1 000km.  anybody looking for a set of 27,5 is welcome to come pick it up at my house in Bellville.   It is "Schwable Rocket Ron Performance Line Dual Compound"

 

BUT - I am not supplying clean undies when that tire wobbles around a corner !  :devil:

Posted

I have done a few tubeless setups on a mates bike mostly Schwalbe and all sorts.. nics, Hans damf, magic marys even a dirty Dan or something and all seem to hold pressure. On a side note Schwalbe tyres are a mother flufa to get on and off the rim!!! Figured out a nifty trick with three tyres levers a mate and a six pack of your choosing.

Were you trying to mount a tubeless tyre onto a non-tubeless specific rim?

I couldn't get them on to my non-tubeless Mavics but it's am absolute breeze on a set of American Classic Victory 30's

Posted

My wife's new bike came with Racing Ralph Evolve PaceStar LiteSkin tyres, and there was just no bloody way I was gonna convince them to seat and seal on the rim, no matter how many air I was pumping into them with the compressor on high and the valve core removed.

 

So, don't even bother. If you somehow by miracle and all the planets aligned get it to seat with a compressor, you are going to be up the creek without a paddle when it burps and comes off the rim in the bush. Not worth tempting fate.

 

BTW, I have both tyres here, 50 km on each, for pasella if someone wants them.

what rims are those? I run these tires fine on my SS - never had an issue - your compressor regulator might need adjustmen to deliver more air in a hurry - set it to about 6 bar and it should work better
Posted

Were you trying to mount a tubeless tyre onto a non-tubeless specific rim?

I couldn't get them on to my non-tubeless Mavics but it's am absolute breeze on a set of American Classic Victory 30's

I'm pretty sure they're tubeless rims... inferno29 26'... maybe some rims are just easier than others on a side note the last time we changed his tyres I vaguely remember saying something like we're never doing this again!(I'm a biiiig maxxis fan)

Posted

what rims are those? I run these tires fine on my SS - never had an issue - your compressor regulator might need adjustmen to deliver more air in a hurry - set it to about 6 bar and it should work better

 

I was running the compressor on 8 bar. No luck. It was Giant P-XCR rims.

 

With proper tubeless ready tyres I got the familiar pop within 2 seconds and it seated properly, so the problem is not with the rims. The rims is marked as tubeless ready also and already had the proper tubeless rim tape fitted from the factory.

Posted

I was running the compressor on 8 bar. No luck. It was Giant P-XCR rims.

 

With proper tubeless ready tyres I got the familiar pop within 2 seconds and it seated properly, so the problem is not with the rims. The rims is marked as tubeless ready also and already had the proper tubeless rim tape fitted from the factory.

Tank pressure or outlet pressure at 8 bar? I can run my outlet pressure at 2 bar and seat my wtb rims - My carbon rims with new tires are an entirely different story - they need a strap and at least 6 bar outlet pressure to seat - and sometimes a few retries too... those have caused plenty cursing to get both sides on and seated - one side is a breeze to seat.

 

I suspect there are some combinations that are more difficult to seat than others too - higher outlet pressure does make it easier to a point - go too high and you can get a faceful of sealant in combination with a minor heart attack when the tire blows off the rim - watched my race partner do that... luckily I was about 20 feet away.... but I still got a fright.

Posted

Tank pressure or outlet pressure at 8 bar? I can run my outlet pressure at 2 bar and seat my wtb rims - My carbon rims with new tires are an entirely different story - they need a strap and at least 6 bar outlet pressure to seat - and sometimes a few retries too... those have caused plenty cursing to get both sides on and seated - one side is a breeze to seat.

 

I suspect there are some combinations that are more difficult to seat than others too - higher outlet pressure does make it easier to a point - go too high and you can get a faceful of sealant in combination with a minor heart attack when the tire blows off the rim - watched my race partner do that... luckily I was about 20 feet away.... but I still got a fright.

 

The regulator was set to 8 bar. I assume that means tank pressure. The compressor motor switches off when it gets to that point.

 

I am too lazy to struggle. I know myself. When I get to that point when I start throwing spanners and screwdrivers. I have broken stuff when I get to the point. It is the point where the French and Anglo-Dutch kitchen dialect don't help to calm my frustration.

 

So I rather take the wallet pain and get the proper tyres. Better for my own sanity and I will probably live longer.  :blush:

Posted

The regulator was set to 8 bar. I assume that means tank pressure. The compressor motor switches off when it gets to that point.

 

I am too lazy to struggle. I know myself. When I get to that point when I start throwing spanners and screwdrivers. I have broken stuff when I get to the point. It is the point where the French and Anglo-Dutch kitchen dialect don't help to calm my frustration.

 

So I rather take the wallet pain and get the proper tyres. Better for my own sanity and I will probably live longer.  :blush:

Usually a decent compressor will have 2 gauges - one is the tank pressure guage and measures the internal pressure of the tank only - the on/off switching of the pump is managed by a pressure switch, and not by the regulator - the regulator may or may not have it's own pressure gauge (cheaper one's often do not have a gauge) , and you can only really accurately set it when air is flowing out of the tank - so you have to blow air out of an air duster or something to set it (assuming it has a gauge) - if you post a photo of that area of your compressor then I should be able to see what your setup is.

Posted

Usually a decent compressor will have 2 gauges - one is the tank pressure guage and measures the internal pressure of the tank only - the on/off switching of the pump is managed by a pressure switch, and not by the regulator - the regulator may or may not have it's own pressure gauge (cheaper one's often do not have a gauge) , and you can only really accurately set it when air is flowing out of the tank - so you have to blow air out of an air duster or something to set it (assuming it has a gauge) - if you post a photo of that area of your compressor then I should be able to see what your setup is.

 

and this is typically set to 3bar - to limit the output for spray guns.  This also limits the flowrate of the air out of the compressor.

Posted

Stick to the snakeskin and super gravity versions of Schwalbe tyres and they work very well tubeless.

 

As far as the set up and performance on the trail is concerned, the type of rim you run plays a massive role. I have never burped a Schwalbe tyre off my Stans Flow rims and they are usually easy to seat with a pump although I have to resort to co2 sometimes. 

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