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Drivetrain problems - FED UP!!


DoomedUser

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Posted

Hi,

 

I recently took my bike in for a service. (It's a stock standard Giant Reign 2 with Deore / SLX setup - 2x10).

 

The service was around R2400. It was a major service + the following had to be replaced: 

  • Chain
  • Cassette
  • Front chain ring (small one)
  • Cables
  • Jockey pulleys

Now, 150km in (one ride in that 150km was a shuttle day where minimum pedalling was required) after the service I snapped the chain. After "Gwinning" back to the start of the trail the local bike shop tells me the chain is worn out and the cassette shows signs of wear, also the jockey pulleys needs replacing because it's shifting the chain off the cassette / crank.  

 

R340 later (new chain fitted /labour/shifting checked) I am able  ride home. 

 

 

  1. Do I need to get a better (more expensive) drivetrain?
  2. Is the way I am shifting gears the problem?
  3. Do I need to have a bike check after each ride? 
  4. Would a "simpler" setup like a 1x11 sort out the issue?
  5. How the hell do you enjoy your hobby if have to haemorrhage money the whole time?

 

 

 

Posted

 

Hi,

 

I recently took my bike in for a service. (It's a stock standard Giant Reign 2 with Deore / SLX setup - 2x10).

 

The service was around R2400. It was a major service + the following had to be replaced: 

  • Chain
  • Cassette
  • Front chain ring (small one)
  • Cables
  • Jockey pulleys

Now, 150km in (one ride in that 150km was a shuttle day where minimum pedalling was required) after the service I snapped the chain. After "Gwinning" back to the start of the trail the local bike shop tells me the chain is worn out and the cassette shows signs of wear, also the jockey pulleys needs replacing because it's shifting the chain off the cassette / crank.  

 

R340 later (new chain fitted /labour/shifting checked) I am able  ride home. 

 

 

  1. Do I need to get a better (more expensive) drivetrain?
  2. Is the way I am shifting gears the problem?
  3. Do I need to have a bike check after each ride? 
  4. Would a "simpler" setup like a 1x11 sort out the issue?
  5. How the hell do you enjoy your hobby if have to haemorrhage money the whole time?

 

 

 

Your issue is your LBS if after 150km your "new" components are worn out... 

Posted

 

 

  1. How the hell do you enjoy your hobby if have to haemorrhage money the whole time?

 

 

you learn how to do it yourself - because you are being taken for a ride somewhere me thinks (pun intended)

Posted

 

Hi,

 

I recently took my bike in for a service. (It's a stock standard Giant Reign 2 with Deore / SLX setup - 2x10).

 

The service was around R2400. It was a major service + the following had to be replaced: 

  • Chain
  • Cassette
  • Front chain ring (small one)
  • Cables
  • Jockey pulleys

Now, 150km in (one ride in that 150km was a shuttle day where minimum pedalling was required) after the service I snapped the chain. After "Gwinning" back to the start of the trail the local bike shop tells me the chain is worn out and the cassette shows signs of wear, also the jockey pulleys needs replacing because it's shifting the chain off the cassette / crank.  

 

R340 later (new chain fitted /labour/shifting checked) I am able  ride home. 

 

 

  1. Do I need to get a better (more expensive) drivetrain?
  2. Is the way I am shifting gears the problem?
  3. Do I need to have a bike check after each ride? 
  4. Would a "simpler" setup like a 1x11 sort out the issue?
  5. How the hell do you enjoy your hobby if have to haemorrhage money the whole time?

 

 

Learn to service your own bike. All of the things you mentioned are very easy to do yourself. Then you know things are done to your satisfaction, and you can only blame yourself if they are not.

 

Also, something does not sound right. Even SLX should last you at least a year. My son is a very active MTBer, and he easily gets 1 year on his XT drivetrain. 1 X 11 will only mean that your single chainring will wear faster than if you have 2.

 

And no drivetrain, even SRAM XX1 Eagle, wears out in 150 km of riding.

 

One last thing: always insist that the LBS give you the old parts if they needed replacing. Did the LBS give you the old parts?

Posted

If you're happy with the range go for 1x11 , much less things to go wrong.

 

and try to start learning to do your own stuff , start by learning to identify if the components are really worn or is LBS just trying to get more money out of you.

Posted

How long did it take for your original parts to wear out?

 

The answer is "no" to each of the questions above. You shouldn't be haemoraging money like this. There is something more sinister and I think it may have something to do with one or both of the bike shops.

 

Either incorrect advice, incorrect fitting, incorrect parts.

 

It could all or a combination of the above. I'm willing to bet when your new chain was fitted, they didn't use a quick link and the pin wasn't inserted correctly. This is why the chain snapped

Posted

Ive got 2x11 xt, 2500 km, no wear, no issues. Friend does about 10-15k km on drive train(2x10, his trick to never was it, just keep it well lubed).

 

So 150km and already worn, they screwed you over unless you do 1500w average, maybe then worn out abit

Posted

Thanks for the advice. This just confirmed to me that no LBS can be trusted. NONE!

 

Will klap this on my own from now on, screw bike shops.

I think most of us who do our own repairs etc have been bitten by a LBS at some stage....

 

 

 

Posted

Buy yourself a chain wear tool so that you know when it's time to replace your chain. That will mean other components should last longer:

"If you put an old worn out chain on  a new cassette, you can wear out that cassette in just a few rides," says Nick Murdick, hard goods product line manager at Shimano America. "The chain is very efficient at making the gears match the pitch of the chain. So if you replace a chain before it’s worn out, the gears on the cassette and chainring last much longer.”
Posted

With this kind of problem you really need to take a step back and give it some thought.

 

Lets assume that the parts were replaced as per the LBS.

 

Then you need to ask yourself how did the chain break?  It's usually from chain suck or a chain jam.  If suck then which ring?  If the small ring then did they replace the old one with the correct new one?  Correct speed new one, material and number of teeth?  Or did they just use what they had in stock?  If from a jam how did it jam?

 

My eyesight is not great but I have glasses and a magnifying glass.  Even with those I cannot tell if a cassette is worn to the point of needing replacement by looking at it.  When the new chain slips on a gear replace the cassette.  As simple as that.  Chains are much simpler to assess as when a 12 links on a chain wear to 12 and 1/16 inch replace it.  Did the new chain wear to this extent?  A number of threads on measuring chain length.

 

As for the new (or old) jockey wheels pulling the chain off the ring - pull the other one!  If the hanger is straight, the pulleys correctly fitted, moving freely and the limits correctly adjusted they are not going to budge the chain off a ring.  If the chain falls from the large ring when cross chained then replace the large ring as well.

 

Before spending money on a new drive train (unless you want one of course) get a second -or should I say third - opinion on this one.  

Posted

Bike shops often don’t have the time and skill to properly diagnose issues. There are assumptions made and fixes suggested that are generally common fixes that are quick to do and will be with items that are carried as stock spares. It is therefore important to build a relationship with a bike shop as they will have better insight to the bike’s recent history ito maintenance and parts replaced. While I am capable to do most maintenance items on my bikes, I prefer to have an expert do the work. Maybe because I have a good LBS that generally do not miss things on my bike.

 

 

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