GrahamS2 Posted October 2, 2018 Share Depends how much of a weight weenie you are :- 64 brass nipples = +- 64 grams64 alloy nipples = +- 18 gramsYep, and this is rotational weight, in the worst place possible. I've never had an issue with alloy nipples in my 40 years of riding bikes. Maybe I'm just lucky? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThePubSA Posted October 2, 2018 Share alu fine in jhb .. havent corroded in over 5 years . coast is a problem . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThePubSA Posted October 2, 2018 Share Crash caused by what, a spoke nipple oxidising? It's called maintenance. I have several sets of wheels that I built up whith alloy nipples and 3 - 4 years later no sign of oxidisation. A bit of oil also goes a long way.xacto what he said . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fanievb Posted October 2, 2018 Share Satan didn’t stop there though, continuous improvement kinda guy. He then got factory wheels to add a drop of loctite to the alloy nipple when building the wheels. Then when you try and true the wheel the friggin alloy nipple breaks and you have to remove the wheel tape too so you can replace it. not satan, just a *** wheel builder Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PeterF Posted October 2, 2018 Share alu fine in jhb .. havent corroded in over 5 years . coast is a problem .It' not actually a coastal thing, it's actually bi-metallic corrosion. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThePubSA Posted October 2, 2018 Share It' not actually a coastal thing, it's actually bi-metallic corrosion.well they go way faster at the coast for whatever reason .. sewing machine oil 2x in 5 years 0 problems . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jewbacca Posted October 2, 2018 Share hahahahahahahahahahahahaha If you are not in the top 10 at every race you do and are talking about rotational weight and a difference of 23 grams per wheel, then jog on. I really hope you are being ironic and I missed the memo Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
droo Posted October 2, 2018 Share It' not actually a coastal thing, it's actually bi-metallic corrosion. Galvanic corrosion still needs an electrolyte. As for the oil stopping corrosion - it will to a point. But try truing that wheel after a year or two. If you're the type that never has to true your wheels, alu is fine. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Quagga Posted October 2, 2018 Share According to Luescher Teknik who put some spokes and nipple in Sealant for 2 years, only the alu nipples that we NOT anodised had corrosion. But when those nipples are on carbon wheels it seems to be 20X worse. So Alu on Alu if anodised is OK-ish. Alu on Carbon - NO NO Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nick_the_wheelbuilder Posted October 2, 2018 Share Yap, after breaking 5 nipples, I looked at the dings in my old rim ang gave Nick some business. Btw Nick, the wheel has now had some proper riding and is still rolling awesome.Happy to hear that! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hairy Posted October 2, 2018 Share After an alu nipple has corroded, does it damage the spoke to the point one has to replace the spokes, or can one just clean it up and slap on some decent brass nipples? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
droo Posted October 2, 2018 Share After an alu nipple has corroded, does it damage the spoke to the point one has to replace the spokes, or can one just clean it up and slap on some decent brass nipples? Alu is lower than stainless on the galvanic scale, so the nipple will corrode. The spoke will be fine if you can get the nipple off. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David Marshall Posted October 2, 2018 Share After an alu nipple has corroded, does it damage the spoke to the point one has to replace the spokes, or can one just clean it up and slap on some decent brass nipples?When they really corrode you just cut the spokes and start again. Yep, and this is rotational weight, in the worst place possible. I've never had an issue with alloy nipples in my 40 years of riding bikes. Maybe I'm just lucky?Save 40 gm on nipples and have 150 ml sealant sloshing around - no alu nipples for me. It says something that on all the wheels where I have replaced aluminium nipples no one has requested that I redo with aluminium. At R640 for spokes and nipples and R450 for labour plus redoing the tubeless it does not make sense to make the same mistake twice. If your nipples are Loctited on to loosen you just need to heat them with a gas lighter, let stand for half a min and undo. Problem is with the tapered super lock nipples that the manufacturers use that enable them to sell wheels with too few spokes - usually straight pull radial so that you can't rebuild with a stronger lacing pattern! Oh no, I am repeating my rant - (again?) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grease_Monkey Posted October 2, 2018 Share alu fine in jhb .. havent corroded in over 5 years . coast is a problem .Too true. Had my wheels built in Pta before I even knew about alu or brass nipples - just chose hubs and rims. Anyway, shop went with alu, no corosion at all. Moved to Somerset West at the beginning of this year and the nipples are not looking so good - may need a rebuild soon with brass (may get some carbon rims while I'm at it). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SwissVan Posted October 2, 2018 Share Galvanic corrosion still needs an electrolyte. As for the oil stopping corrosion - it will to a point. But try truing that wheel after a year or two. If you're the type that never has to true your wheels, alu is fine.Which type of rider is that?Asking for a friend (who thinks he has brass nipples) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kranswurm Posted October 2, 2018 Share .Galvanic_Table.pdf Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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