herrowpreeze Posted October 5, 2018 Posted October 5, 2018 Whats is the difference in Sintered vs Organic pads Which are you guys running, I do a lot of trail riding? I have metallic pads in but the keep glazing the rotor and then I have to clean and sand the pads and rotor again
DieselnDust Posted October 5, 2018 Posted October 5, 2018 Sintered metal in WinterResin /metal compound in summer For a bicycle you won;t see much performance difference between the two types but Metal will last a lot longer and will wear your disc rotor more quickly but are also more consistent when wet. see here for some info:https://www.worldwidecyclery.com/blogs/worldwide-cyclery-blog/mountain-bike-brake-pads-sintered-vs-organic
Grease_Monkey Posted October 5, 2018 Posted October 5, 2018 Sintered/Metalic for me. They last long and give me consistent braking performance on long descents. But noisier and more expensive initially, but with how much longer they last it works out cheaper in the long run. Also much better when wet - I've gone through a set of new organic pads in one muddy weekend at Cascades, Karkloof, and Sani Pass.
Dexter-morgan Posted October 5, 2018 Posted October 5, 2018 Slight Highjack, is the Pads with fins worth while?
Grease_Monkey Posted October 5, 2018 Posted October 5, 2018 Slight Highjack, is the Pads with fins worth while?I assume Shimano? Recently replaced the finned pads with non finned pads on My Shimano XT M8000 setup. Can't say I notice any difference, even on long descents.
splat Posted October 5, 2018 Posted October 5, 2018 I assume Shimano? Recently replaced the finned pads with non finned pads on My Shimano XT M8000 setup. Can't say I notice any difference, even on long descents. Same for me
geomark Posted October 5, 2018 Posted October 5, 2018 I found sintered and metallic pads last longer under basic riding BUT if you really start pushing long mountain descents then they heat up and sinter and fade and you start to really destroy your discs. Took it up with Magura mechs in Germany when riding there and they just said stick to organic and change pads more frequently and have mostly done so ever since. A few times I haven't and have regretted it on big descents. If you not doing big descents then better cost savings for metallic.
dirtypot Posted October 5, 2018 Posted October 5, 2018 I prefer the resin/organic pads. They're quieter, have more of a bite and a nicer 'feel'. I've not got a problem with the metallic pads, just prefer the resin. As for the fins - I've noticed my regular pads start to complain a bit if I'm doing a really fast descent from the Tokai mast (still have to gain six places to be top of the leader board, dammit!), but only right at the bottom of the tar section. The finned pads don't do that. Apart from that there's no difference at all.
GrahamS2 Posted October 5, 2018 Posted October 5, 2018 I assume Shimano? Recently replaced the finned pads with non finned pads on My Shimano XT M8000 setup. Can't say I notice any difference, even on long descents.Did you replace with Shimano ones? Some of the aftermarket options look interesting but I'm hesitant to try without feedback on them.
Grease_Monkey Posted October 5, 2018 Posted October 5, 2018 Did you replace with Shimano ones? Some of the aftermarket options look interesting but I'm hesitant to try without feedback on them.Yes, I replaced with Shimano, just without fins. I have used after market pads before with no issues, guys like Galfer make really good products.
love2fly Posted October 5, 2018 Posted October 5, 2018 I weigh 102 kg and love caning it on downhills which necessitates hard braking for cornering and have not appreciably worn a disc rotor in the 5000km plus I have done on my latest MTB - Using sintered pads.I have just switched to resin and had to adjust the throw on my levers to max out and the lever still touchers mt grip finger under hard breaking.Will NEVER buy resin/organic again, the sintered are well worth the Shekels...
DieselnDust Posted October 5, 2018 Posted October 5, 2018 I weigh 102 kg and love caning it on downhills which necessitates hard braking for cornering and have not appreciably worn a disc rotor in the 5000km plus I have done on my latest MTB - Using sintered pads.I have just switched to resin and had to adjust the throw on my levers to max out and the lever still touchers mt grip finger under hard breaking.Will NEVER buy resin/organic again, the sintered are well worth the Shekels...Huh? Sounds like post brake pad swap you didn’t Bleed the brakes. 5000km without wear on the disc rotors....Me thinks you need get those checked out.I wear significant grooves into my Rotors within 3000km .I’m 70kg and don’t use the brakes too often
Sepia Posted October 5, 2018 Posted October 5, 2018 Wore out a new set of resin pads in the Winterberg.I went for metal with fins up front. Never looked back and they do no squeal at all. This is with a heavy load down mountain passes so I guess I am a bit off topic here.
dirtypot Posted October 5, 2018 Posted October 5, 2018 I have just switched to resin and had to adjust the throw on my levers to max out and the lever still touchers mt grip finger under hard breaking.Will NEVER buy resin/organic again, the sintered are well worth the Shekels... This will have nothing at all to do with the pad material. This is a fluid issue.
love2fly Posted October 11, 2018 Posted October 11, 2018 When I installed the pads the throw was fine, wore quite quickly and had to adjust throw. Have just gone back to new sintered and problem solved.
love2fly Posted October 11, 2018 Posted October 11, 2018 Huh? Sounds like post brake pad swap you didn’t Bleed the brakes. 5000km without wear on the disc rotors....Me thinks you need get those checked out.I wear significant grooves into my Rotors within 3000km .I’m 70kg and don’t use the brakes too oftenWear after just 3000km? Are you using OEM rotors or cheap lightweight?I ride with 2 family members and we all bought new bikes around the same time (this time last year). NONE of us has any noticeable rotor wear and have changed pads around 3 - 4 times.......
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