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New Riders - Tubeless Opinions


Darko

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Posted

I'm the WORST at any sort of DIY. But I'll attempt it at least one of them myself! Ha ha

To be honest, it's an easy job, but not something I'd recommend doing off the bat. It's messy and can be time consuming and frustrating to get a tyre to seat if you don't have an air compressor.

 

Get a shop to do it, it will seal propperly, you will enjoy your first ride without first dealing with the frustration of converting to tubeless.

 

Then... once you are hooked, and when the sealent needs to be topped up do it yourself. Then when the tyres need replacing do it yourself, and then eventually you will be able to do it with your eyes closed.

 

But before you have even had tyres on dirt I would not recommend it - might just put you off more than anything especially seeing as you are not a DIYer...

Posted

Another question, do I still need a pump once the conversion has been done? 

 

I assume there's nothing else that needs pumping up? 

Posted

Another question, do I still need a pump once the conversion has been done?

 

I assume there's nothing else that needs pumping up?

Yup, you still need a pump. It loses air the same as a tube, so you will need to check pressure before you go for a ride. Do a search here on the hub about tyre pressure - it's been discussed at length.

 

One of the advantages of a tubeless conversion is that you can run lower pressures (more grip, more comfort). Consensus is to start at 2.0 bar (28psi) and adjust up and down from there as needed.

Posted

Oh I see! Thanks for that. 

 

So, there is a paste that gets put inside the tyre, right? 

 

If there is a puncture, the paste fills the hole? 

 

Then whatever air is let out, you need to pump back up? 

Posted

But when a slime tube does puncture --- what a mess... only thing worse than changing a tube on the side of the trail with sweaty fingers and blind as bat cos you're not wearing your close work spectacles is doing that when the slime tube has disgorged it's slime all over the rim and the tyre and your hands .....

 

Immediately go tubeless

 

 

I have two mates that started riding last week and they had exactly the same question. Against my advice they decided to postpone getting tubeless conversions because they have already spent so much just getting all the necessities to get started. On their first ride, still on the 2km tar stretch before we get to the mountain..first flat. Lucky for him his bike came standard with slime tubes without him even knowing. They worked quite well for sorting out a little thorn. So if you say you're not going to do to extreme riding at first, consider the slime tubes.. Cheaper alternative to going tubeless. But slime tubes aren't going to save you if you hit something worse than a thorn. In a month or two when you realize you are going to keep on riding and get more serious, then go tubeless for sure.

Posted

Oh I see! Thanks for that.

 

So, there is a paste that gets put inside the tyre, right?

 

If there is a puncture, the paste fills the hole?

 

Then whatever air is let out, you need to pump back up?

Spot on... tubeless sealent in the tyres to be exact. Some air does escape naturally, even without punctures. And sealant does have a useful lifetime, so you will have to top up a 2 or 3 times a year, and replace completely at least once a year - very dependant on how hard/where/how often you ride.

 

Tubeless is one of the best things to happen to mtb in a long time! I've had maybe 2 punctures in the last 3 years.

Posted

When I got my current bike it was a very quick sale late on a Saturday more than a 100km from where we live .... no time for tubeless conversion ....

 

They fitted tubes with slime.

 

I KNOW I have gone through MANY thorns !!  FIVE on my last ride !!!  Each one made a green bubble as I pulled out the thorn .... sludge sealed the holes and tires are still fully inflated.

 

 

YES, I have bought the parts and will go tubeless soon enough ... for now I am testing how long and how well the tubes with slime lasts.

 

 

 

Either way, tubes with slime, or tubeless .... just make SURE you have some sealant system in place before even riding on the pavement !!  Even on my commute bike (tubeless) I encounter lots of thorns enroute to work, on tar roads and pavements

 

 

 

Should add - our FIRST ride at Meerendal (previous bikes).  We did our first short stint, had a milkshake, and when wanted to head out Maritz's tire was FLAT !!  NOT how you want to end a ride ....

Posted

Gracias. Really appreciate it. 

 

Looking forward to just getting on the damn thing! 

 

 

Spot on... tubeless sealent in the tyres to be exact. Some air does escape naturally, even without punctures. And sealant does have a useful lifetime, so you will have to top up a 2 or 3 times a year, and replace completely at least once a year - very dependant on how hard/where/how often you ride.

Tubeless is one of the best things to happen to mtb in a long time! I've had maybe 2 punctures in the last 3 years.

Posted

My 2c:

 

Usually standard tyres are rubbish. If yours is tubeless ready then great, if not you can still do a tubeless conversion but you are more likely to experience side wall cuts etc. I tore my standard Maxxis Ikon 2.2 side wall after about 100km on the odo and had to replace it.

 

It's an easy job for anyone to do. All you need is tubeless valves, rim tape (usually equal to the outer diameter of your rim), the sealant of your choice and a syringe which holds about 50ml.

 

If your rim is dirty, clean it with syrgical spirits which you can buy at dis chem for next to nothing.

 

Then tape the rim (check youtube video tutorials).

 

Then make a small x shape cut over the valve hole and insert the valve.

 

After that you put the tyre on. Usually goes on easily. You can use a little bit of soapy water if you wish. Just rub it on lightly with you're hand so you don't get litres of soapy water in the tyre. This will help seat the tyre to the rim.

 

Once the tyre is over the rim, you need quite a lot of air pressure. You can blow up the tyre until it makes popping sounds and is hard enough. Inspect to make sure it is seated.

 

Remove the valve stem and draw up 50ml of the sealant into the syringe. Now put the syringe nipple into the open valve and insert the sealant. I usually do about 80ml into a 29er tyre.

 

Replace the valve stem and pump up the tyre. Once again you'll need a lot of air pressure. You will hear popping sounds again. Inspect to make sure the tyre is evenly seated to the rim.

 

If you are satisfied then rotate and shake the rim so the sealant goes all over inside and seals any tiny holes.

 

Now you are tubeless and good to go.

 

Take a tubeless repair kit with you when you go out with a few co2 bombs and an adaptor just incase you need it.

 

Enjoy!

Posted

My 2c:

 

Usually standard tyres are rubbish. If yours is tubeless ready then great, if not you can still do a tubeless conversion but you are more likely to experience side wall cuts etc. I tore my standard Maxxis Ikon 2.2 side wall after about 100km on the odo and had to replace it.

 

It's an easy job for anyone to do. All you need is tubeless valves, rim tape (usually equal to the outer diameter of your rim), the sealant of your choice and a syringe which holds about 50ml.

 

If your rim is dirty, clean it with syrgical spirits which you can buy at dis chem for next to nothing.

 

Then tape the rim (check youtube video tutorials).

 

Then make a small x shape cut over the valve hole and insert the valve.

 

After that you put the tyre on. Usually goes on easily. You can use a little bit of soapy water if you wish. Just rub it on lightly with you're hand so you don't get litres of soapy water in the tyre. This will help seat the tyre to the rim.

 

Once the tyre is over the rim, you need quite a lot of air pressure. You can blow up the tyre until it makes popping sounds and is hard enough. Inspect to make sure it is seated.

 

Remove the valve stem and draw up 50ml of the sealant into the syringe. Now put the syringe nipple into the open valve and insert the sealant. I usually do about 80ml into a 29er tyre.

 

Replace the valve stem and pump up the tyre. Once again you'll need a lot of air pressure. You will hear popping sounds again. Inspect to make sure the tyre is evenly seated to the rim.

 

If you are satisfied then rotate and shake the rim so the sealant goes all over inside and seals any tiny holes.

 

Now you are tubeless and good to go.

 

Take a tubeless repair kit with you when you go out with a few co2 bombs and an adaptor just incase you need it.

 

Enjoy!

Nice description! In my case it works as 'quick' as that maybe half the time, the rest of the time it's a 'gespook' to get it inflated, especially if the tyre goes on too 'easy'
Posted

Just do it, and learn how to do it yourself.

 

Sealant dries up pretty quickly so before every important race it should be checked. I used to battle without a compressor, then I got one. Makes it much easier to check and seat tires. CO2 does work, but many sealants are wrecked by CO2, so check with the bike shop when you buy sealant that the brand is compatible with CO2, if you plan to use CO2 to seat new tires. Its a waste of money using CO2 with a sealant that does not like CO2.

Posted

My 2c:

 

Usually standard tyres are rubbish. If yours is tubeless ready then great, if not you can still do a tubeless conversion but you are more likely to experience side wall cuts etc. I tore my standard Maxxis Ikon 2.2 side wall after about 100km on the odo and had to replace it.

 

It's an easy job for anyone to do. All you need is tubeless valves, rim tape (usually equal to the outer diameter of your rim), the sealant of your choice and a syringe which holds about 50ml.

 

If your rim is dirty, clean it with syrgical spirits which you can buy at dis chem for next to nothing.

 

Then tape the rim (check youtube video tutorials).

 

Then make a small x shape cut over the valve hole and insert the valve.

 

After that you put the tyre on. Usually goes on easily. You can use a little bit of soapy water if you wish. Just rub it on lightly with you're hand so you don't get litres of soapy water in the tyre. This will help seat the tyre to the rim.

 

Once the tyre is over the rim, you need quite a lot of air pressure. You can blow up the tyre until it makes popping sounds and is hard enough. Inspect to make sure it is seated.

 

Remove the valve stem and draw up 50ml of the sealant into the syringe. Now put the syringe nipple into the open valve and insert the sealant. I usually do about 80ml into a 29er tyre.

 

Replace the valve stem and pump up the tyre. Once again you'll need a lot of air pressure. You will hear popping sounds again. Inspect to make sure the tyre is evenly seated to the rim.

 

If you are satisfied then rotate and shake the rim so the sealant goes all over inside and seals any tiny holes.

 

Now you are tubeless and good to go.

 

Take a tubeless repair kit with you when you go out with a few co2 bombs and an adaptor just incase you need it.

 

Enjoy!

 

1 thing I'd do differently for simplicity - seat the tyre without sealant then pop a short section of one bead off and just pour some sealant in and then reseat it. Much faster than dealing with syringes and valve stems.

 

For the OP - ask the shop to show you how to deal with punctures in the tubeless tyres. You will need to understand how the plugs work and using co2 bombs etc. Not something you want to be guessing when you're hot and tired on the side of a trail. It's not complicated at all so should take them 5 minutes max to explain everything.

Posted

1 thing I'd do differently for simplicity - seat the tyre without sealant then pop a short section of one bead off and just pour some sealant in and then reseat it. Much faster than dealing with syringes and valve stems.

 

For the OP - ask the shop to show you how to deal with punctures in the tubeless tyres. You will need to understand how the plugs work and using co2 bombs etc. Not something you want to be guessing when you're hot and tired on the side of a trail. It's not complicated at all so should take them 5 minutes max to explain everything.

 

Yes, agree with this. I fixed a puncture with a plug on a group ride. Group was milling around expecting a long wait, after 2 minutes it was done. People were like... what kind of sorcery is this? Next time your car gets a puncture watch what they do, more or less the same thing with the bike.

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