MTB Chains: To De-grease or Not-to-Degrease

[ChrisF]

what do you think about the ParkTool type chain cleaners ?

 

 

My chain cleaning consists of three "stages" -

 

1)  wipe it down after rides

 

2) when wiping no longer works I spray a bit of chain cleaner onto a rag, then wipe down the outside of the chain, and put on Smoove dry lube

 

3) when the crud collects inside the links it is time for cleaning it with the ParkTool cleaner.  Followed by over-lubing it with Smoove - knowing that the cleaner have removed some lube from inside the links.  I make sure to put sufficient lube on the "inside" and the "outside" of the chain, then make sure it is spread evenly over the whole length of the chain.  After a few minutes I use a rag around the chain, turn the crank and remove the excess lube

 

Step 3 is only done when needed ....

 

 

I am open to feedback on how to improve on this routine.

[Skylark]

The parktool cleaner works but it potentially makes quite a mess, also degreaser is normally water based or you rinse the chain off afterwards with water, which isn't ideal. I see putting some gloves on, removing a master link and chain then dunking the whole lot in paraffin as a better clean and less messy, the chain is also left with a light coat of oily paraffin which helps lube wick in to all the rollers and protects from rust.

[arendoog]

I use WD40 to spray on and wipe off when there is a lot of wax build up .Cleans and lubricates .Then back to Smoove in small quantities .I used to use purple extreme that also worked well .I have no idea how long a chain lasts .I replace it when it is worn  

[ChrisF]

The parktool cleaner works but it potentially makes quite a mess, also degreaser is normally water based or you rinse the chain off afterwards with water, which isn't ideal. I see putting some gloves on, removing a master link and chain then dunking the whole lot in paraffin as a better clean and less messy, the chain is also left with a light coat of oily paraffin which helps lube wick in to all the rollers and protects from rust.

 

for SURE, the ParkTool cleaner DOES make a lekka mess !!    

 

Helps have a decent working area.  I take the real wheel off, and use a shaft and pulley, at least none of this mess gets onto the wheel.

 

Thick rags on the floor to soak up the mess.

 

Typically 2 or even 3 runs with the ParkTool cleaner -

 

1) NAM Charlie mixed with water, about 15%.  Clean as good as possible.  Wash out the ParkTool.

 

2) Sometimes I have a second run with 5 to 10 of NAM Charlie ...

 

3) Last run is just clean water, to make sure I get all the degreaser out of the chain links

 

 

Lots of spinning the crank and using rags to dry out the water from the chain .... THIS is the step that worries my the most.  DONT want water left inside the chain links.

 

 

Then onto the Smoove lube session, still with the wheel off the bike.  Make no mistake - this step also can make a good mess on the ground, when over lubing to make sure all the links are properly lubed.

 

 

 

Again - I am open for suggestions from the experienced MTB riders as to how to do this better

[MudLark]

Parktool thing is k@k IMHO. I've stopped using Squirt. Now use a classic dry or synthetic seni-dry lube. Much less crud and things run smoother and quieter. After a few rides I just hold the chain with a rag and rotate the crank until clean and then relube. When it really does need proper cleaning, off it comes and into the Prepsol for a soak. Then proper wash off. Then into Philiips hot air cooker for drying. Then refit and lube again. Gives me a very smooth, very quiet and very happy drivetrain as well as being generally crud-free.

 

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[Mojoman]

Mickle method....

[MudLark]

Mickle method....

Hmm... ? Never heard of it.

 

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[m-squared]

I started with paraffin but found it too harsh on my chain (maybe I was just too green back then).  Been using normal lubes ever since.

 

I have been keen to try Molten Speed Wax but it's expensive to import.  The site waxes on (sorry) about the quality of the paraffin wax but to be frank, it's the dry moly that does the trick.  It's used in all heavy machinery so it makes sense that it would find an application to bike chains too.

 

Anyone have a stash of dry moly on hand?

[Skylark]

 

 

for SURE, the ParkTool cleaner DOES make a lekka mess !! [emoji317]

 

Helps have a decent working area. I take the real wheel off, and use a shaft and pulley, at least none of this mess gets onto the wheel.

 

Thick rags on the floor to soak up the mess.

 

Typically 2 or even 3 runs with the ParkTool cleaner -

 

1) NAM Charlie mixed with water, about 15%. Clean as good as possible. Wash out the ParkTool.

 

2) Sometimes I have a second run with 5 to 10 of NAM Charlie ...

 

3) Last run is just clean water, to make sure I get all the degreaser out of the chain links

 

 

Lots of spinning the crank and using rags to dry out the water from the chain .... THIS is the step that worries my the most. DONT want water left inside the chain links.

 

 

Then onto the Smoove lube session, still with the wheel off the bike. Make no mistake - this step also can make a good mess on the ground, when over lubing to make sure all the links are properly lubed.

 

 

 

Again - I am open for suggestions from the experienced MTB riders as to how to do this better

There is no easier and more effective solution than using a masterlink, taking the chain off(no need to remove the wheel) and cleaning it in paraffin. Mudlarks technique is also good but very labour intensive.

 

You can also reuse the paraffin endlessly, just leave the container to stand, let the dirt settle on the bottom and pour off the clean into a new container. That's why I like using yogurt containers, I have one with clean and one with not so clean paraffin and when you pour off the clean paraffin you can just throw away the old yogurt container and use another one.

[intern]

Heh I have a story about Squirt. Many years ago I'd just finished a stage of the Cape Pioneer and one of the founders came blustering up to me and said he was gonna sue me over the story I'd written about Squirt lube.

Turns out he hadn't read the story. Specifically, the bit where I said in my experience Squirt doesn't last as long as other lubes, but was my favourite because you can have a clean drivetrain (I used to wash mine with sunlight and a scrubbing brush, took the wax right off).

And ja ja I know Squirt says not to clean your chain, but we're not savages, now are we. And my chains used to last plenty long enough 'back in the day'.

These days I prefer Motorex wet or dry. And avoid riding in the rain.

[SwissVan]

So my question is, what do you guys do?

 

I'm now using less, basically just a drop or 2 per roller and brushing and wiping after each ride and the post ride situation is a much cleaner drive train......

 

Thoughts?

You nailed it with this method.

 

Lube ride wipe lube ride ride wipe lube

 

The key is taking the time to apply a very little amount of lube to each roller, and then wiping off the excess after a few minutes

[slickjay007]

I use the SMOOVE method which works pretty well for me.

 

6 SIMPLE STEPS TO A SMOOVE RIDE.

Step 1 > Apply SMOOVE to a clean dry chain.
Step 2 > Apply on the inside of the chain while turning the pedals to ensure that the lube gets worked into the chain.
Step 3 > Let the lube dry for at least an hour.
Step 4 > Best results are achieved if lube is applied the night before.
Step 5 > Do not wipe chain after application.
Step 6 > Too much lube will cause residue to accumulate around the derailleur pulley wheels and cassette.

[i24]

 

2. Squirt say never to degrease the chain and to just brush with dry brush etc

 

https://www.squirtcyclingproducts.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/05/SquirtChainLube-_ApplicationInstructions.pdf

So my question is, what do you guys do?

 

 

This is a religious topic, this is my approach. I use squirt, as per the instructions:

 

Turn the bike upside down (that also oils up the fork felt rings). Brush the dust, mud and top layer of wax off the chain. Scrape the crud off the jockey wheels (don't leave the crud on the garage floor where you might walk it into your shoes). Apply squirt to the inside of the chain and turn pedals slowly backwards 'till there is a nice white stripe of squirt. Then I carefully smear it into chain with my fingers while slowly back pedaling.  The whole chain should feel slippery, if not I add some more squirt. Leave it to try overnight.

 

Net result:

 

- A black greasy chain that can leave a mark on your ankle. (If you have a problem with this, fit a chain guard.)

- More time on the bike riding and less time fiddling with chains.

- A chain that lasts > 3000km on a MTB.

 

The real lubricant is put inside the chain by the manufacturer. When this lubricant is depleted it is time to replace the chain. The squirt makes a barrier to keep the dust and mud out and the OEM lubricant in. Motor cycle chains use O-Rings for this job and they can last > 30 000 km. Soaking the chain just reduces its life.

[madmarc]

This subject has been debated and beaten to death - "To dry Lube or Not to Dry Lube"

Here is the link to an old thread

 

https://community.bikehub.co.za/topic/109516-the-great-chaincassettegears-thread/page-1

 

And here is the white paper written by the great Johan Bormman.

 

 

Everything you need to know about Bicycle Chains.pdf

[Puncture Kid]

I used to use prepsol, but recently started using a water based degreaser that works so much better in getting gunk off the chain pretty quickly. Then rinse with water. Repeat with degreaser until degreaser remains clean.

 

Also check if the chain is properly clean by taking an end and each hand and twisting it and moving your hands up/down to move the links. It should not feel gritty.

 

Then I put chain in the sun to dry and warm up. Then while chain is warm, I apply Smoove to each roller and plate interface. The warm chain helps with getting the wax flowing into all the little spaces (this is also why you lube your motorcycle chain after a ride and not before - chain is warm). Once the chain has cooled down you will feel how smooth it is. Feels just like a new chain. Then after putting it back on the bike, another drop on each pin. The reason I like Smoove is partly because the bottle has a very small spout that makes it easy to dispense a single drop on the chain.

[Firozfx]

This subject has been debated and beaten to death - "To dry Lube or Not to Dry Lube"

Here is the link to an old thread

 

https://community.bikehub.co.za/topic/109516-the-great-chaincassettegears-thread/page-1

 

And here is the white paper written by the great Johan Bormman.

After reading this many years ago. I use engine oil on my chains. The theory is sound. Wax just falls off and clogs the jockey wheels.

 

Of course there will be counter arguments but a liquid that flows can get to places a sticky wax can't.

 

New leftover oil from an engine oil service is what I use. I jetwash the chain and drivetrain at most after 2 rides. Even after a dusty mtb ride, the chain has lube on the inside.

 

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