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Posted

This is starting to annoy me !

 

Had a fsa BB in, after riding through a puddle it starts creaking, a strip and clean and its okay until some water gets in again.

 

Changed it to a Token cermanic bb, was fine for +/- 500km and then it starts.

Definitely the BB area, if I spray some q20 it stops for a short while.

 

What can you guys recommend doing here ?

Some locktite or epoxy but then the issue comes in when it needs to be removed.

 

 

What bike are you riding?

I ask because if its a cannondale scalpel Si 2017-2020 model year you will need to get a BB386 EVO thread together BB. WheelsMfg PF30-THD-BB is too short

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Posted

The screw together type solves a lot of the issues, but it is also a very expensive solution. Since you already purchased the ceramic bearings, I would assume you would want to reuse the bearings.

 

The majority of the time, the creak develops between the nylon cup and the frame where the interface occurs. There is a very fine tolerance there and this often results in slight movement. The only way I have solved this issue with my bikes is using a trick that I learnt from my father-in-law:

 

Remove the bearings, and clean out the BB area, using thinners or similar - really scrub the area to ensure that all dirt etc. is removed. Once dried, apply a thin layer of tubby glue all around the BB shell and leave to dry for 24 hours. Repress your bearings and you will be good to go. The tubby glue remains slightly "moveable" allowing any gaps to be taken up, stopping the bearings from moving.

 

Besides epoxying the bearings into position, this is the only other solution that I have found that appears to work.

 

That sounds like a fine bodge sir. I'm gonna give it a try!

Posted

Buys tubby glue - R200

Hacks a bodge that needs redoing - time - invaluable

Eventually drops it off at shop to replace - Labour 500 bucks New PFBB 500 bucks

 

 

New Screw together BB - R600 to R800 fitted and forgotten

 

Sometimes a bigger initial outlay will cost less than trying to solve a problem that has already been solved using lots of cheaper 'solutuons'....

Posted

Buys tubby glue - R200

Hacks a bodge that needs redoing - time - invaluable

Eventually drops it off at shop to replace - Labour 500 bucks New PFBB 500 bucks

 

 

New Screw together BB - R600 to R800 fitted and forgotten

 

Sometimes a bigger initial outlay will cost less than trying to solve a problem that has already been solved using lots of cheaper 'solutuons'....

And then you factor in the price of the bike, that people what to go cheap on.....
Posted

Buys tubby glue - R200

Hacks a bodge that needs redoing - time - invaluable

Eventually drops it off at shop to replace - Labour 500 bucks New PFBB 500 bucks

 

 

New Screw together BB - R600 to R800 fitted and forgotten

 

Sometimes a bigger initial outlay will cost less than trying to solve a problem that has already been solved using lots of cheaper 'solutuons'....

 

Cold beer for you sir.

 

You know where to find it.

Posted (edited)

Buys tubby glue - R200

Hacks a bodge that needs redoing - time - invaluable

Eventually drops it off at shop to replace - Labour 500 bucks New PFBB 500 bucks

 

 

New Screw together BB - R600 to R800 fitted and forgotten

 

Sometimes a bigger initial outlay will cost less than trying to solve a problem that has already been solved using lots of cheaper 'solutuons'....

 

Firstly, tubby glue is R50 a tube...

 

Secondly, there is no need to redo this, or take a bike anywhere near a shop (besides suspension services, my bikes don't venture anywhere near a bike shop). Between my family members, there are over 10 bikes that have used this solution and to date, not one issue.

 

My last BB got me over 35 000km and my current road bike BB is over 20 000km and is spinning perfectly.

 

Each to their own I guess, I would rather use the R800 for something else and keep the ceramic bearings that the OP paid for. OP, let me know if you go the threaded route, would be happy to buy the ceramic bearings from you for when I eventually have to replace my current BB.

 

*Edit: Yay, my 1000th post  :clap:

Edited by Schnavel
Posted

Firstly, tubby glue is R50 a tube...

 

Secondly, there is no need to redo this, or take a bike anywhere near a shop (besides suspension services, my bikes don't venture anywhere near a bike shop). Between my family members, there are over 10 bikes that have used this solution and to date, not one issue.

 

My last BB got me over 35 000km and my current road bike BB is over 20 000km and is spinning perfectly.

 

Each to their own I guess, I would rather use the R800 for something else and keep the ceramic bearings that the OP paid for. OP, let me know if you go the threaded route, would be happy to buy the ceramic bearings from you for when I eventually have to replace my current BB.

 

*Edit: Yay, my 1000th post  :clap:

 

Will do, but eager to get this sorted without spending too much more money.

Posted

Anyone know where to find the Wheels threaded pf30 locally, together with their tool and reducers ?

Can get it on Amazon, but would be easier if they are available here.

Posted (edited)

Anyone know where to find the Wheels threaded pf30 locally, together with their tool and reducers ?

Can get it on Amazon, but would be easier if they are available here.

Also been looking lately, can’t find it. I am sure you lbs or CWCycles can order it for you though.

 

Must say that I am a bit miffed that basically all of these threaded PF30 bb’s need their own damn tool. I had a KCNC one when I was still running 24mm spindle and it was awesome and didn’t need a specific tool. For some damn reason KCNC don’t make the same one for a 30mm spindle.

Edited by Knersboy

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