Boost or non-boost

[Alien Racer]

Hi there, I see lots off marketing hype about Boosted and non-Boosted Frames and components.

Please explain the technical side off it and where is it applied to.

Also on which bikes will this make the most difference?

We not all bike mechanics so for those in the industry enlighten us that do not know.

 

[Quagga]

Boost means that the rear is 6mm wider. and the front 10mm 

Rear spokes will be 3mm further apart that normal and front 5mm 

 

With the spokes further apart is "should" build a stonger wheel.

[BaGearA]

Boost widens the distance between the hub flanges, so think of your spokes making a triangle between the the point they screw into the nipples and where they connect to the hub

 

Triangles with wider bases are harder to topple and this theoretical triangle gets stronger with wider/boost hubs

 

This is a very simple explanation of it but basically all it is.

 

However you're going to start to struggle to find non boost frames and components very soon, at the same time there are bikes coming out with super boost configurations

 

So I would go for a boost bike and just keep it going for a few years, the industry changes so fast its virtually impossible to stay up to date

[Super Sywurm]

I can't comment on the technical stuff, but I prefer boost.  The reason for my decision is that boost is the newer technology and I feel that it will be easier in the future to buy boost components and less easy to get hold of non boost, I might be wrong.

 

Same with the wheels, it is way easier to get wheels and tyres for newer technology 29" wheels than 26" wheels.

[droo]

As above - if you can get Boost do it, it's newer and will therefore be easier to get spares going forward.

 

That said, if you're on a budget and not the type to upgrade individual components, non-boost stuff will probably be cheaper on the second hand market.

[Alien Racer]

Cool thanks, I see they prefer to fit boosted more to trail bike as it would make more sense.

[Super Sywurm]

Cool thanks, I see they prefer to fit boosted more to trail bike as it would make more sense.

XC / Marathon bikes as well.  For instance, the Titan Drone, Merida Big Nine Lite and more.

[DieselnDust]

Boost is one of those things that seems like a great idea but when you do the math its actually just a load of marketing bollocks.

The base of the triagle is 6mm wider but the bracing angle changes by around 2 degrees included when measured at the rim. A properly built wheel with balanced spoke tension will give a wheel that's just as stiff. Use an assymetric rim and it improves a little further.

Marginal gains. 

Super Boost well now there's a real improvement but its too wide for marathon and XC bikes where the Q factor is narrower. So now the bike manufacturers want to make the q factor higher to accomodate super boost.

You know because, light stiffer faster sells more bikes

[DieselnDust]

Cool thanks, I see they prefer to fit boosted more to trail bike as it would make more sense.

 

 

All new bikes except the current Cannondale Scalpel Si are boost. The C'Dale is 142mm but with Ai offset to get the spoke tension balanced between the drive and non drive side of the wheel

[Alien Racer]

I agree with you on that point off new tech and then every second rider wants it and nothing else. Marketing very clever. 

Boost is one of those things that seems like a great idea but when you do the math its actually just a load of marketing bollocks.

The base of the triagle is 6mm wider but the bracing angle changes by around 2 degrees included when measured at the rim. A properly built wheel with balanced spoke tension will give a wheel that's just as stiff. Use an assymetric rim and it improves a little further.

Marginal gains. 

Super Boost well now there's a real improvement but its too wide for marathon and XC bikes where the Q factor is narrower. So now the bike manufacturers want to make the q factor higher to accomodate super boost.

You know because, light stiffer faster sells more bikes

[MORNE]

they needed boost to get chains to clear 650b+ and 29+ rubber lol...the rest is all marketing BS imo

A 2.8 -3.0 wide inch tire wont clear the chain on a non boost spacing frame even if you had the chainstay clearance. Thats why fatbikes have those silly wide BB's and Q factor cranks ,  rear hub spacing too. Rubber and chain clearance for that rubber without some wacky chain line. 

 

Surly is the real MVP though...they have a standard called 'gnot Boost'. frame spacing is 145mm instead of 142 or 148. that means you can run either or depending on your wheelset. they also provide a spacer for the dropout should you want to run either of the QR standards too. one frame for any wheel axle standard you want....

 

https://singletrackworld.com/2016/07/surly-introduce-145mm-hub-standard/

Edited May 6, 2020 by morneS555

[Flippa]

they needed boost to get chains to clear 650b+ and 29+ rubber lol...the rest is all marketing BS imo

A 2.8 -3.0 wide inch tire wont clear the chain on a non boost spacing frame even if you had the chainstay clearance. Thats why fatbikes have those silly wide BB's and Q factor cranks ,  rear hub spacing too. Rubber and chain clearance for that rubber without some wacky chain line. 

 

Surly is the real MVP though...they have a standard called 'gnot Boost'. frame spacing is 145mm instead of 142 or 148. that means you can run either or depending on your wheelset. they also provide a spacer for the dropout should you want to run either of the QR standards too. one frame for any wheel axle standard you want....

 

https://singletrackworld.com/2016/07/surly-introduce-145mm-hub-standard/

 

Surly is the OG of plus tyres. Their first Krampus (29+) frames were stock 135mm rear hub spacing and 100mm front hub spacing, chain clears fine with a normal (not Boost) chainset and the 3.0" tyres. Their second generation frames had interchangeable dropout chips for 135mm QR, 142mm thru axle and SS. Only the third generation introduced the Gnot-Boost dropouts.

[MORNE]

Surly is the OG of plus tyres. Their first Krampus (29+) frames were stock 135mm rear hub spacing and 100mm front hub spacing, chain clears fine with a normal (not Boost) chainset and the 3.0" tyres. Their second generation frames had interchangeable dropout chips for 135mm QR, 142mm thru axle and SS. Only the third generation introduced the Gnot-Boost dropouts.

yes.

i meant to ad that it becomes (or can become an issue) when you cross chain a crank...past a 3"+ tire into a 50T+ rear granny gear....chainstay length dependant too. when the stars align...there is a chance your chain will catch the side knobs on a tire. Boost spacing solved this. see below.

Edited May 6, 2020 by morneS555