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Posted

My son learned the hard way on removing pedals. Just before lockdown he tried to remove his new XT pedals from his MTB to fit it on his new Gravel Bike. Did not know what he did but he damaged the allen key part of the pedal. I removed the pedal just to find that the arm is taperred, took a grinder to make two flat spots in order to fit a small pipe wrench. That thing is so tight and the steel on the pedal is much harder that the pipe wrench can not get a grip. Gave up and took it to the LBS, which in turn asked an engineering shop to remove the pedal.

 

attachicon.gifXT Pedal1.jpg

 

That's quite common on XT ad XTR pedals.  If you get the Allen key slightly off-square and it slips, it cracks the spindle at the point of the hex.  The more you try, the more the hex splays out and you wont be getting it loose from that side.  You then need to take the crank arm off and dismantle the pedal and grip the spindle in a vise and rotate the crank arm.

 

If you have XT or XTR pedals, find a friendly engineering firm and ask them to make you one each of these - the Allen key for when you travel and the socket for your workshop toolbox.  The rounded guide stops the Allen Key from slipping out and also helps locate it.

 

Or as mentioned before, use lots of copper slip, screw the pedals in by hand, and give them a slight nip with the Allen key.  No need for more than that.

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Posted

That's quite common on XT ad XTR pedals.  If you get the Allen key slightly off-square and it slips, it cracks the spindle at the point of the hex.  The more you try, the more the hex splays out and you wont be getting it loose from that side.  You then need to take the crank arm off and dismantle the pedal and grip the spindle in a vise and rotate the crank arm.

 

If you have XT or XTR pedals, find a friendly engineering firm and ask them to make you one each of these - the Allen key for when you travel and the socket for your workshop toolbox.  The rounded guide stops the Allen Key from slipping out and also helps locate it.

 

Or as mentioned before, use lots of copper slip, screw the pedals in by hand, and give them a slight nip with the Allen key.  No need for more than that.

Nice idea.

  • 2 months later...
Posted

So I'm sitting with this same issue now, on the right pedal.

 

During hard lock down I had the pedals on the old Scott, transferred them to the Giant when we were allowed out again. I did grease the threads but obviously not so well. Left pedal came off with ease, right pedal has rounded 2 allen keys and a hex socket.

 

After I rounded the first allen key I doubted myself that I was turning it in the correct direction, so I jumped onto the interwebs to confirm.

 

With the second allen key I tried impacting it with a hammer to jolt it loose.

 

Would it be ok to get use the pneumatic guns at work to try and loosen it ?

Posted

So I'm sitting with this same issue now, on the right pedal.

 

During hard lock down I had the pedals on the old Scott, transferred them to the Giant when we were allowed out again. I did grease the threads but obviously not so well. Left pedal came off with ease, right pedal has rounded 2 allen keys and a hex socket.

 

After I rounded the first allen key I doubted myself that I was turning it in the correct direction, so I jumped onto the interwebs to confirm.

 

With the second allen key I tried impacting it with a hammer to jolt it loose.

 

Would it be ok to get use the pneumatic guns at work to try and loosen it ?

A pneumatic impact wrench should get it loose.
Posted

A pneumatic impact wrench should get it loose.

just chatted to a technician in the workshop who is also a cyclist, he is hesitant to use the pneumatic drill, but he has good quality hex sockets so we are going to try that first.

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