Converting Sram force 2X to 1X

[MORNE]

thats a neat chain guide. Wonder if they have a bracket for a direct to chain stay mount like on scalpel Ai

PSSST...think i found it:

 

read S3/E type mount chain guide. when you type that a whole new world opens up on the google machine lol

 

https://absoluteblack.cc/oval-chain-guide-s3-e-type/

 

anyhow, i learnt something new today so thanks.

Edited August 11, 2020 by morneS555

[Wayne pudding Mol]

Thank you guys for all your suggestions. I think I’m gonna go with a 50T upfront and an 11-42 cassette. Gives me all my low end and top gears equal to my current setup. Probably going to miss my 16T cog though.

 

Last question from me. Would I need shorter chainring bolts? I know if I put on wolf tooth I need to change the bolts but if I put Sram Force 1 onto a Force 22 would I need to do the same?

Shorter chainring bolts or washers (ugly)

[Bub Marley]

Shorter chainring bolts or washers (ugly)

Thanks

[PeterF]

Sram actually have an 11-42 cassette that I could fit but it’s quite weighty. It would allow me to fit a 50t chainring though. How do you find the jumps with this combination?

I thought that the gaps in the gearing would be an issue but it actually is not (to me anyway).  In my opinion with a 50t up front and 11-40 or 42 at the back you have all the gears you will ever need.

[PeterF]

This is a genuine question, why would you do this ? What is the benefit.

 

The downsides are obvious: spending money to get smaller range, bigger gaps between ratios, sloppier shifting, bigger chance of dropping a chain, etc.

 

I don't get it.

The only valid point that you have is the bigger gaps between gears.  The shifting is precise and have not dropped a chain once since going 1x.

[Martin PJ]

The only valid point that you have is the bigger gaps between gears.  The shifting is precise and have not dropped a chain once since going 1x.

I had some problems on my son's 1x10, the chain was shifting up too easily, so it would try to shift up when it was not supposed to shift. Solved by going 11 speed chain. It seems that some of the big gaps in the rear cogs make the chain shift up when it is not supposed to.

[DieselnDust]

PSSST...think i found it:

 

read S3/E type mount chain guide. when you type that a whole new world opens up on the google machine lol

 

https://absoluteblack.cc/oval-chain-guide-s3-e-type/

 

 

 

 

anyhow, i learnt something new today so thanks.

 

Urgent thanks I think...

What I am hoping for is a unit that the chain has to be threaded through so it if it does derail it hangs inside the chain guide.

The std design all basically try to guide the chain but if it does derail then it’s a mess

[Spinnekop]

I've got a 48, 1x, 5 bolt, 110BCD Garbaruk chainring brand new if you want to try out?

[Bub Marley]

I've got a 48, 1x, 5 bolt, 110BCD Garbaruk chainring brand new if you want to try out?

Thanks for the offer. I’m in the UAE at the moment though. 

[Schnavel]

Thank you guys for all your suggestions. I think I’m gonna go with a 50T upfront and an 11-42 cassette. Gives me all my low end and top gears equal to my current setup. Probably going to miss my 16T cog though. 

 

Last question from me. Would I need shorter chainring bolts? I know if I put on wolf tooth I need to change the bolts but if I put Sram Force 1 onto a Force 22 would I need to do the same?

 

Do it!

 

As I mentioned earlier in the thread, I have a 46T upfront and a 10-42 cassette at the back on my gravel bike. I often ride it on the road and it works perfectly! Yes, the gaps take a bit of getting used to, but nothing cadence adjustment cannot fix