39/52 possible with gears?

[DieselnDust]

This thread is becoming seriously Higher Grade. Why do they(the OEM) make things so difficult?

We should be able to put what ever size we want on there. Sure when the jump is big you will struggle to change compared to standard but it still works. I am running a 44/56 on the race tandem and prior to the 44 I had a 42 and it was not easy changing, especially up but the 44 made it easier but I struggled to get a 44. Eventually imported it from some french track cycling website, then had to stick the chainring on the lathe and make it a bit narrower as it was flipping thick.

 

 

 

Not just that but I tried the MB and MC combo and there was a noticeable difference in front ring shifting. a few dropped chains which I never experienced. Then i checked and realised there's a difference and discovered the combos

The LBS salesman didn't know squat, Called up Darryn at Williams and he said check the ring compatibility. Ever since then I've been on a WFT Shimano tiraid. They make it impossible. The only wya out of it is to o Absolute black but they don't do round chainrings

[NotSoBigBen]

Pffftttt!

39/53 and 11/21 for me thanks.

 

I do feel old though I just changed my training wheel's cassette to a 12/25...

Just collect it from Scotty, he had it last....

[CdM123]

Appreciate the feedback thx guys...I’ve had to google some of acronyms below but also learned in the process???? thx.

I have both sets of chainrings 53/39 and 52/36(currently using) and using with 11/28. I rode 53/39 and 13-26 Campy for about 6 years did one Double Century with it and sweared that I’ll never ride those gears at DC again????????‍♂️. It was my first DC two years ago...Changed to Ultegra, bought it second hand with 53/39 but changed the chainrings to 52/36 for my second DC last year...a much fitter me enjoyed the race and improved my time....I think I have gotten used to the 39t chainring for climbing as the 36t just feels a little bit too light (maybe also psychologically)....even if I gear down* on cassette.

So just playing around to see if the 39t will work better for me... don’t really need the 53t ring as the 11 works fine with my 52t...

Don’t have the tools etc. to chop and change so I have to take it the the bike shop to have it changed...

Appreciate all the feedback????????

[DieselnDust]

Appreciate the feedback thx guys...I’ve had to google some of acronyms below but also learned in the process thx.

I have both sets of chainrings 53/39 and 52/36(currently using) and using with 11/28. I rode 53/39 and 13-26 Campy for about 6 years did one Double Century with it and sweared that I’ll never ride those gears at DC again‍♂. It was my first DC two years ago...Changed to Ultegra, bought it second hand with 53/39 but changed the chainrings to 52/36 for my second DC last year...a much fitter me enjoyed the race and improved my time....I think I have gotten used to the 39t chainring for climbing as the 36t just feels a little bit too light (maybe also psychologically)....even if I gear down* on cassette.

So just playing around to see if the 39t will work better for me... don’t really need the 53t ring as the 11 works fine with my 52t...

Don’t have the tools etc. to chop and change so I have to take it the the bike shop to have it changed...

Appreciate all the feedback

 

 

The rings are super easy to chenge. Just a 4 or 5mm allen key and torque wrench.

I'd opt for  52-38 and if you can find one a 12-28 Dura Ace cassette if you can find it

[Smartie]

Isnt the 38t harder to source in RSA versus 39t?

 

Or let me rather ask, where can one get a 38t locally?

 

I bought a SRAM 38t. Works fine, though I do have the older 5-bolt Ultegra crankset.

[Darryllk]

Mind sharing a direct web link where I can purchase a 38t please?

 

The rings are super easy to chenge. Just a 4 or 5mm allen key and torque wrench.

I'd opt for  52-38 and if you can find one a 12-28 Dura Ace cassette if you can find it

[DieselnDust]

I bought a SRAM 38t. Works fine, though I do have the older 5-bolt Ultegra crankset.

 

 

The Ultegra R6800 crank is not compatible with any SRAM chainrings. Its either OEM Shimano rings or Absolute Black elliptical rings or round rings.

 

Here is the guidance from AB:

Ramps on big rings are specially configured for combinations: 50/34, 52/36, 52/38, 53/39T.

• 34T inner chainring should be used with 50T outer ring. It has 6.5% ovality. Use a 34T to help with spinning higher cadence and hilly terrain.
• 36T inner chainring can be used with 50 or 52T outer ring. It has 11.4% ovality. Use a 36T if you’re a strong rider or for rolling terrain.
• 38T inner chainring should be used with 52T outer ring. It has 11.4% ovality. Use a 38T if you’re a very strong rider or for flat terrain.
• 39T inner chainring should be used with 53T outer ring. It has 11% ovality. Use a 39T if you’re a very strong rider or for flat terrain.
• 50T outer chainring – Choose this size if you ride for pleasure or sportive events. This is the most versatile and comfortable size.
• 52T outer chainring - if you race and feel strong, it's the classic outer chainring size and a great option for experienced riders.
• 53T outer chainring - if you race and feel very strong, it's the classic outer chainring size and a great option for powerful riders.

Remember when selecting your chainring sizes - it's not about what others use, but about ensuring YOUR ability to maintain a comfortable and effective cadence across the terrain you ride most often. If you ride chainrings that are too large (round or oval), your cadence will be lower. This can affect your performance by prematurely tiring your legs and possibly lead to stress injury in your knee joints.

[DieselnDust]

Mind sharing a direct web link where I can purchase a 38t please?

 

 

I've never ordered one from an online store so I'mnot sure which online store in SA would have them in stock.

I have ordered it on both occasions from my lbs, Williams Bike Shop and they've had it in stock within a week

[Max Headroom]

39 option IMHO is better. 52/39 (or 53/39), as you pick-up speed, the change from 39 to 52 is less aggressive on the legs and similarly, you don't have to drop down (as with 53) on every incline. But don't make it too easy with the cassette etc- you just end up using the granny gear on every hill and going slower and slower (and your buddies will have to wait for you.

We rode 52/42 and 12/21 for many years (Argus, Jock tour etc.)

New technology is making us soft - Just got to HTFU

[DieselnDust]

53-39 = 14  tooth jump

52-38 = 14 T jump.....

 

If you wanna FYKU then 52-42 

[TNT1]

 

If you wanna FYKU then 52-42 

with 12-19? I think I can dig out some old 8spd cassettes.

[DieselnDust]

with 12-19? I think I can dig out some old 8spd cassettes.

 

 

I ain't going back there again.....  although ...............could work for TT's

[Frosty]

39/53 was the standard for many years. All my 10spd Campag groupsets have that.

 

ps.

 

One bike has a "Climbing" cluster on. 11-25

I see your 11-25 and raise you 11-23 (used a few times in Suikerbosrand Nature Reserve on a 53/39 chainring).

[Long Wheel Base]

I see your 11-25 and raise you 11-23 (used a few times in Suikerbosrand Nature Reserve on a 53/39 chainring).

I have a 11-23 and 11-28 for my road bike and last time I went to suikerbos I used the 11-28 and still struggled(also 53/39 175mm cranks). So kudos to you. Was it on the richey?

[Frosty]

I have a 11-23 and 11-28 for my road bike and last time I went to suikerbos I used the 11-28 and still struggled(also 53/39 175mm cranks). So kudos to you. Was it on the richey?

Not the Ritchey, my current carbon framed bike. Was also at least 10-12 years ago when getting up the hills was much easier.