BOOM! First bike since 1999!!!

[Fillipe]

Hello Bikehub forum...

The name is Fillipe and I'm looking at buying my first bicycle since I last rode one in 1999 in school. 😆

I'm fat, making the scale sweat at 108kg's and I'm 1.83cm tall. The ladies at my yearly medical tells me I'm obese. But I tell them to bugger off. Muscle weighs more than fat....

Ok, grappies oppie stokkie, I have a slight beer belly and the beginning of the man boobs. My height masks my weight very well.

I want to get a bicycle to ride up and down my street to get my heart pumping and do some cardio. I'm not a wannabe Lance Armstrong (only pro cyclist I know of) and I am never going to do trails, hard riding, jumps or look back at my bike with a glisten in the eye when I stow it in my dusty garage. It will be a crude tool for the daily 30min of cardio before I get onto the weights. I'm no gym bunny as well.....

Nostalgia plays a role in my wanting a MTB and because I can't fathom sitting on a bike cycling my a$$ off and not going anywhere while staring at the girls doing weights....

So, with this all in mind, I'm not spending serious money on a MTB. 

Can anyone recommend something that will be fine for pavement and tar only? I'm also not going to wear lycra or spandex. PT broek, "wife beater" shirt and tekkies. Maybe a backwards cap. I'm still deciding. 

I've looked at the Huffy DS-3: https://huffyshop.co.za/shop/bikes/ds-3-dual-suspension-mtb-26/ or
the Huffy Granite: https://huffyshop.co.za/shop/bikes/huffy-granite-mountain-26-inch-bike-2/

I've also looked at the Game/Makro Raleigh bikes... All 26'ers...

Glad to meet yall!

[Headshot]

Seriously? 🙂 Those cheapies will let you down, spend more and get a real bike. 

[ChrisF]

Hi Fillipe

 

Welcome back to two wheels 

 

I also sold all things bike related in 1999, and got back on it a few years ago.  So the journey is still fresh in my mind.  Some random thoughts, in no particular order .....

 

. Get the right size frame/bike ..... SO easy to find a smaller bike comfortable when starting out .... but it hurts the knees, then the wallet when you have to upgrade

 

. back-wards cap ...   All trails no have a no helmet no ride policy .... so might as well get one that fits properly .....

 

. The market has moved on, and there are many "cycling pants" that incorporate a padding .... but that can wait a while ....

 

. pedals .... back in 1999 you used to get "to-clip" pedals.  Remember the fun pulling away at a robot .. one or two pedal strokes, roll back the pedal, slip in your shoe ... lean down and pull the strap tight ....  These "toe clips" have made way for "clip less" pedals - for the same effect you can now have a "cleat" below your shoe that "clips" in the "clip-less" pedals .... uhm jaaaa ... starting out, get "flat pedals", and ride with your tekkies.  Once you get into funny stuff on the trails you may want better shows to improve the grip and feel on the rough stuff .... or heaven forbid, jump down the rabbit hole and go "clip less", so that you can can "clip onto" the pedals.

 

. bike size ..... for many decades 26" MTB were theeeee in thing.  Then the industry moved on and today you will most certainly be buying a 29" MTB.  For somebody of your length this is a given.

 

. tubeless ..... tubes have gone the same route as dial up modems .... now MTB's ride on tubeless tires, and you laugh at thorns ..... it works very nice !!!  BUT, remember to top op the sludge in the tires .... it only takes a few minutes maybe 3 or 4 times a year.

 

. brakes .... buying on a budget you will encounter three options ... 

1. V-brakes ... really not an option for you .... you want more stopping power

2. Cable operated disc brakes .... uhm .... I dont like it .... but maybe it might sort of work for you ...

3.  Hydraulic disc brakes is a lot better .... though this is also a VERY broad term !!!  But even basic hydraulic brakes are a lot better than the previous two

 

. Rigid vs Hard tail (HT) vs Full suspension (FS)

On a budget only the Hardtail makes sense.

Ideally with an "air fork", so you have adjustability ....

 

. Gears ...... second hand you may well see many 3x7 (or 8 or 9) bikes.  These certainly will do the job perfectly while you get back into cycling.  These are also a lot cheaper.

The market went through a 2x phase (two rings up front) .... these typically are also a bit cheaper.

For the last few years 1x is the craze .... and thus also more expensive than the other two.

 

At the back the gears went from 9 to 10 to 11 and yes 1x12 is the bees knees now ....  

 

Frankly, a 1x11 costs a fraction and does the job just as well when starting out.

 

 

. Saddles ..... read up a bit about "sit bone width" .... getting the correct width saddle helps a LOT !!!

 

 

 

Last comment .... IF you decide via Bike Hub ... READ UP on "Bike Hub Pay"   Reduces your risks a LOT.

 

 

Please tell us where you are, and the Hubbers will point you to the go to places in your area

[Fillipe]

16 minutes ago, Headshot said:

Seriously? 🙂 Those cheapies will let you down, spend more and get a real bike. 

Would a cheapie like that not stand up to me riding 30min a day up and down my street or around the block? My bike journey will not evolve into me entering comps. Ever. 😁

15 minutes ago, ChrisF said:

Hi Fillipe

 

Welcome back to two wheels 

 

I also sold all things bike related in 1999, and got back on it a few years ago.  So the journey is still fresh in my mind.  Some random thoughts, in no particular order .....

 

. Get the right size frame/bike ..... SO easy to find a smaller bike comfortable when starting out .... but it hurts the knees, then the wallet when you have to upgrade

 

. back-wards cap ...   All trails no have a no helmet no ride policy .... so might as well get one that fits properly .....

 

. The market has moved on, and there are many "cycling pants" that incorporate a padding .... but that can wait a while ....

 

. pedals .... back in 1999 you used to get "to-clip" pedals.  Remember the fun pulling away at a robot .. one or two pedal strokes, roll back the pedal, slip in your shoe ... lean down and pull the strap tight ....  These "toe clips" have made way for "clip less" pedals - for the same effect you can now have a "cleat" below your shoe that "clips" in the "clip-less" pedals .... uhm jaaaa ... starting out, get "flat pedals", and ride with your tekkies.  Once you get into funny stuff on the trails you may want better shows to improve the grip and feel on the rough stuff .... or heaven forbid, jump down the rabbit hole and go "clip less", so that you can can "clip onto" the pedals.

 

. bike size ..... for many decades 26" MTB were theeeee in thing.  Then the industry moved on and today you will most certainly be buying a 29" MTB.  For somebody of your length this is a given.

 

. tubeless ..... tubes have gone the same route as dial up modems .... now MTB's ride on tubeless tires, and you laugh at thorns ..... it works very nice !!!  BUT, remember to top op the sludge in the tires .... it only takes a few minutes maybe 3 or 4 times a year.

 

. brakes .... buying on a budget you will encounter three options ... 

1. V-brakes ... really not an option for you .... you want more stopping power

2. Cable operated disc brakes .... uhm .... I dont like it .... but maybe it might sort of work for you ...

3.  Hydraulic disc brakes is a lot better .... though this is also a VERY broad term !!!  But even basic hydraulic brakes are a lot better than the previous two

 

. Rigid vs Hard tail (HT) vs Full suspension (FS)

On a budget only the Hardtail makes sense.

Ideally with an "air fork", so you have adjustability ....

 

. Gears ...... second hand you may well see many 3x7 (or 8 or 9) bikes.  These certainly will do the job perfectly while you get back into cycling.  These are also a lot cheaper.

The market went through a 2x phase (two rings up front) .... these typically are also a bit cheaper.

For the last few years 1x is the craze .... and thus also more expensive than the other two.

 

At the back the gears went from 9 to 10 to 11 and yes 1x12 is the bees knees now ....  

 

Frankly, a 1x11 costs a fraction and does the job just as well when starting out.

 

 

. Saddles ..... read up a bit about "sit bone width" .... getting the correct width saddle helps a LOT !!!

 

 

 

Last comment .... IF you decide via Bike Hub ... READ UP on "Bike Hub Pay"   Reduces your risks a LOT.

 

 

Please tell us where you are, and the Hubbers will point you to the go to places in your area

Thanks for greeting and info. 

But I feel it's a bit too technical for my needs. 

 I need pedals, steering and brakes that resemble taxi brakes. Just enough to stop, but not Bugatti brakes. 😆

Maybe I should get something like this?

 

Edited October 3, 2022 by Fillipe

[droo]

Combining what has been said above - you're looking for a hardtail, most likely with a suspension fork since that's what's out there if it's less than 15 years old. Disc brakes are nice to have but not essential (unless you want to stop in a hurry.)

At north of 100kg (for now), you'll want something with well built wheels. 32 spokes at minimum, and avoid anything that has any kind pf proprietary or fancy spokes cos you'll probably need to replace entire wheels if something goes wrong.

Avoid anything from Takealot, Game, Makro or anywhere that sells groceries or kitchen appliances. It will break, and even before then it'll ruin your experience of the sport - even if you're not going to take it seriously.

Second hand is great if you know how to identify potentially expensive repairs, new is good for warranties if something goes wrong. And find a decent shop to buy from cos there's a better chance of it being properly assembled - if you tell us where you're based there will be some suggestions pretty soon.

Happy hunting...

[Fillipe]

1 minute ago, droo said:

Combining what has been said above - you're looking for a hardtail, most likely with a suspension fork since that's what's out there if it's less than 15 years old. Disc brakes are nice to have but not essential (unless you want to stop in a hurry.)

At north of 100kg (for now), you'll want something with well built wheels. 32 spokes at minimum, and avoid anything that has any kind pf proprietary or fancy spokes cos you'll probably need to replace entire wheels if something goes wrong.

Avoid anything from Takealot, Game, Makro or anywhere that sells groceries or kitchen appliances. It will break, and even before then it'll ruin your experience of the sport - even if you're not going to take it seriously.

Second hand is great if you know how to identify potentially expensive repairs, new is good for warranties if something goes wrong. And find a decent shop to buy from cos there's a better chance of it being properly assembled - if you tell us where you're based there will be some suggestions pretty soon.

Happy hunting...

Thanks.

I'm a bit wary to walk into a bike shop. It's like me shopping for Hyundai when they only sell Ferrari's and Lambo's. 😃

So I like the idea of a hardtail then with only sus at the front. I can live with that. Cheap dual sus seems a waste then. 

I'll browse some FB market place and see what pops up there. 

 

[droo]

8 minutes ago, Fillipe said:

Would a cheapie like that not stand up to me riding 30min a day up and down my street or around the block? My bike journey will not evolve into me entering comps. Ever. 😁

 

Whatever the worst you can imagine is - it's worse than that. You'll probably taco a wheel trying to ride through a gutter.

2 minutes ago, Fillipe said:

Thanks.

I'm a bit wary to walk into a bike shop. It's like me shopping for Hyundai when they only sell Ferrari's and Lambo's. 😃

So I like the idea of a hardtail then with only sus at the front. I can live with that. Cheap dual sus seems a waste then. 

I'll browse some FB market place and see what pops up there. 

 

The right bike shop will help you out, the wrong one will make you feel like the Ferrari dealer.

Check out the classifieds on here as well for 2nd hand deals.

[ChrisF]

If you see an add ... post a link here ....

 

Some Hubbers will comment.  Quick and easy way to learn

[Fillipe]

1 minute ago, droo said:

Whatever the worst you can imagine is - it's worse than that. You'll probably taco a wheel trying to ride through a gutter.

 

Jirre...then the quality must have dropped since I last rode a Raleigh in '99. 

I abused my bicycle in school and I only had to change wheels because of balding tires... 😆

[Fillipe]

BTW, I'm from Richards Bay. 

[The Ouzo]

If you want the bike to use to get fit you want something that is at least slightly enjyoable to ride. A heavy brick like you get from the likes of game etc. will not encourage you to ride much. Riding will be a schlep and you wont do it nearly as often. 

[Fillipe]

Ok, so I looked at the classifieds. Your classifieds are really nice BTW...

Found some bikes.

https://bikehub.co.za/classifieds/item/hardtail-mountain-bikes/581253/upgraded-patriot-enduro

https://bikehub.co.za/classifieds/item/hardtail-mountain-bikes/588065/silverback-alpine-mountain-bike

https://bikehub.co.za/classifieds/item/hardtail-mountain-bikes/589323/silverback-mountain-bike - Like this one...

https://bikehub.co.za/classifieds/item/hardtail-mountain-bikes/581176/merida-mountainbike-with-slx-used - Also like this one. Looks sexy.

But would a medium bike fit me?

[TyronLab]

For some context, I'm currently helping my fifth newbie (wife, brother in law, friend, now cousin+wife) get into cycling. For our first ride together (my wife, cousin and his wife and I) went for a ride. They bring two "good" Makro bikes and I bring my normal MTB and my wife's cheapo Trek MTB. After 2.5km we swap bikes, for fun, and they go "ja nee *** this is so much better". 

Don't buy a Makro bike dude. You can spend a smidge more on a second hand proper MTB that won't fold in half, and if you don't dig it you can sell it and not lose money. Ideally you can pick up one that's the right size for you (should be a L/XL depending on brand), and seems to have been maintained. Rather buy a "shittier" well-maintained bike than a "higher-spec" poorly maintained bike.

 

More context - I also bought my first grootmens mountainbike in 2018 only wanting to get some exercise in, because I loved tootling around my neighbourhood on my BMX when I was a teenager, and because I had a small tax return burning a hole in my pocket. No plans other than that. Yet here I sit, having smooshed myself riding 512km in a weekend in one go at the Munga Grit (again). 

You don't plan an obsession, it just, kinda, happens...

[Headshot]

At 1.83 and 108 I'd say you a large kind of guy. Those older 26ers will look like a BMX under you. Go huge (L or XL) or go home 🙂 

[Yyyy]

Hi and welcome

If you not planning on any trails and purely just doing road riding but want something thats "more than just restricted to smooth tarmac road" then consider a rigid commuter/gravel bike (flat or drop bar).

No suspension fork to service or maintain. With the right tires that's set up tubeless and you can still do dirt/gravel or B roads without worrying about punctures

dont know what your budget is but have a look at Rook Cycles the Scout model or the Hubs wide range of poducts https://bikehub.co.za/classifieds/c/gravel-and-cyclocross-bikes

Im not going to tell you to buy gear because you sound like you would be comfortable in flip flops, flat pedals and a vest but please just get a decent helmet.

if later you decide you want to ride longer and further then start investing in kit and upgrades to the bike.

 

Good luck and enjoy

[Fillipe]

2 minutes ago, Headshot said:

At 1.83 and 108 I'd say you a large kind of guy. Those older 26ers will look like a BMX under you. Go huge (L or XL) or go home 🙂 

Yeah. 😁

So is there a comparison chart with inch vs M, L, XL ect ect?

Edited October 3, 2022 by Fillipe