High Service Cost

[BaGearA]

1 hour ago, Eugene said:

I have never, in 20 odd years of cycling, taken my bike to a bike shop. I have always done my own servicing. I've always had a hardtail and road bike. 

I recently built up a full suspension, using second hand parts, so I guess there are no warranties that I need to worry about. 

The shock needed to be pumped so I took it to a bike shop to be pumped. Once pumped, the mechanic noticed a creak and told me I needed a full shock service at R2, 800.

Took it home, stripped every single bush and bearing, relubed where I could..... Problem solved. No more creaks. So, did my shock really need a service? It works perfectly. 

I realise it will at some point need a service. I have been watching videos on how to service it and I am wondering how the heck do they get to R2, 800. 

 

You watch an aircan service and they estimate full rebuild.

 

The disconnect between what actually needs done and what means what between bike shops and consumers is staggering 

[ChrisF]

25 minutes ago, RobertWhitehead said:

..... I DIY until I run out of talent. 

 

Sounds SO familar 🤣

 

Walked into Mark's shop on a couple of Mondays .... "I fixed it until it broke ..."

 

 

 

Shocks and suspension ... I pay him to do this 👍  The rest I like doing myself.

[madmarc]

2 hours ago, RobertWhitehead said:

I see this statement a lot. Why does everyone say the dual is so much more than the HT? 

The major difference: 

Rear shock - R 1 100.00 +/- for service

Pivot bearings - R 40.00 each x 4 

I can't think of anything else. Ya, if you go to your lbs then the above will be way more but still, the rear shock won't need a service with every interval and the pivot bearings will only need replacing once they're worn, so I don't see it

Unless you own a TREK Top Fuel - replacing all the suspension bearings will make your eyes water.

[ChrisF]

15 minutes ago, BaGearA said:

The disconnect between what actually needs done and what means what between bike shops and consumers is staggering 

 

^^^ THIS ^^^

 

Friend paid a big brand shop "to service" the kids bike.

 

What they actually did:

- new tyres

 

What I did to that same bike a week later:

- brakes

- repack rear wheel bearings 

- BB was broken, replaced it

- repack front bearings

- replaced the grips

- fitted bar ends 

 

 

What was okay:

- chain and drive train

- pedals

 

 

Steering felt smooth, so I did not open it.

 

 

 

Frankly, a new makro kids bike would cost less than a bike shops costs to do all this.  Only reason I did it properly is because they were handing the bike down and it was going to be used for years

[Me rida my bicycle]

18 minutes ago, madmarc said:

Unless you own a TREK Top Fuel - replacing all the suspension bearings will make your eyes water.

Or a Fuel EX with I think 8 or 10 pivot bearings. I would like to see where Rob gets good quality ss bearings at R40 a pop. 

[RobertWhitehead]

8 minutes ago, Me rida my bicycle said:

Or a Fuel EX with I think 8 or 10 pivot bearings. I would like to see where Rob gets good quality ss bearings at R40 a pop. 

Gents, gents, gents. I own a Trek, slightly older, Superfly (2013) but ok. I am willing to go through the hassle of trying to source some pivot bearings, does anyone have a code close by without having to strip a frame? Let's see what I can find 

[madmarc]

28 minutes ago, RobertWhitehead said:

Gents, gents, gents. I own a Trek, slightly older, Superfly (2013) but ok. I am willing to go through the hassle of trying to source some pivot bearings, does anyone have a code close by without having to strip a frame? Let's see what I can find 

3801 2 RS - 8 off (21X12X8) - Last paid R 299 each (this was the killer same price overseas)

6800 2RS - 8 off (19X10X5)- Last paid R 80 each

17286 2RS MAX - 4 off - Last paid R 80 each

I also had a Superfly - bearings were fairly cheap to replace - Different story with the Fuels

[madmarc]

1 hour ago, ChrisF said:

 

^^^ THIS ^^^

 

Friend paid a big brand shop "to service" the kids bike.

 

What they actually did:

- new tyres

 

What I did to that same bike a week later:

- brakes

- repack rear wheel bearings 

- BB was broken, replaced it

- repack front bearings

- replaced the grips

- fitted bar ends 

 

 

What was okay:

- chain and drive train

- pedals

 

 

Steering felt smooth, so I did not open it.

 

 

 

Frankly, a new makro kids bike would cost less than a bike shops costs to do all this.  Only reason I did it properly is because they were handing the bike down and it was going to be used for years

All my kids bikes were MAKRO specials

Before they even rode them for the first itme i would completely strip them down and rebuild them

They lasted for years.

Its not the quality thats the issue, its the Makro staff assembling them thats the problem - Sportsmans has the same problem, but they have improved over the years

[Wannabe]

I also do all (most) of the servicing on my bikes. (Road, Duel Suss Mtb and homebuilt Gravel Hybrid)

But I'm in the fortunate position to have a friend who owns a small LBS, and every so often I take one of the bikes with when I do my monthly all day visit to him. We then go over that specific bike and tweak / fix all that's needed. 

As I'm quite pedantic in cleaning my bikes and lubing them after every wet / muddy ride, my Mtb has not needed a single bush or bearing to be replaced in the years I have had it (2013 Scott Spark Elite, in in my possession since 2018).  Wheel bearings has been replaced as and when needed (Lyne Pulse 25's with a good few km on them already)

Fork gets it services when needed, shock will now need a full service for which it will have to be sent away (Fox Float RP2) as he does not have the tools for it.

With me being in the position to spend a whole day in the LBS, I can see and understand why bike, especial Mtb services are expensive. The number of DIY Bodge jobs he has to repair on a daily basis is staggering. Sometimes a 1-hour job can take up to two hours to complete due to an owner (or other LBS) Bodge.

Tools / equipment are also expensive, and one tool does not work on all bikes, so a variety of tools, sometimes very specific tools, are needed to service the different brands. 

 

Edited April 13 by Wannabe
Added content

[Theunissa]

23 hours ago, buckstopper said:

I went to collect my forks after they were serviced at RBC yesterday. They replaced seals.  Parts and labour R1120. Great people, got a tour of the workshop, met everybody. Happy to pay. I would send my Ferraris to them...

5 ⭐

Why is about R900 per hour at VW ok, but R450 a rip off at a bike shop? Are the mechanics more skilled, or what?

Wil ek ook weet. And it's R1800 per hour at vw and R1600 at Ford. 

[Theunissa]

On 4/12/2024 at 6:18 PM, leonvandyk said:

My Scott Spark (2018) is in for a full service at Hotspot Cycles and they send the shocks to Cogent.

The service requires new bearings and full shock services on both shocks. The total cost is coming to 2000 for the service and over 4000 for the shocks.

Is this normal? Im now paying more for my bike to be serviced than my car. There is nothing else wrong with the bike.

I only do a full service once a year but geez it’s expensive.

Jy het obviously lanklaas jou kar laat diens by 'n proper mechanic shop. 

[ACE Cycles]

On 4/12/2024 at 6:18 PM, leonvandyk said:

My Scott Spark (2018) is in for a full service at Hotspot Cycles and they send the shocks to Cogent.

The service requires new bearings and full shock services on both shocks. The total cost is coming to 2000 for the service and over 4000 for the shocks.

Is this normal? Im now paying more for my bike to be serviced than my car. There is nothing else wrong with the bike.

I only do a full service once a year but geez it’s expensive.

And thats why I ride a rigid hardtail with AXS 90% of the time

[madmarc]

My view on cost of maintenance for cycling, especially with MTBing and more so MTBing with FS bike - You need to learn some basic service skills - there are lots of resources online like University of U Tjoob and even on some OEM websites. Invest in some time and try them out yourself you will realise it isnt rocket science and will save you 1000's of ronds

So what should you be able to do yourself

Wheels - Fix a puncture; Change a tire; replace rim tape and gorilla snot; do a complete tjoobless conversion; True a bent wheel; Depending on which hubs you have you should be able to to service and replace hub bearings 

Brakes - Replace brake shoes; re-cable brakes - A bit more advanced, but brake bleeding is not that hard. 

Drive Train - Remove the cranks; remove and reisntall a BB; Measure wear on a chain; be able to break a chain to correct length; replace a chainring; replace a cassette; RD setting and tweaking; replace RD jocky wheels. Re-cable gears.

Suspension - Oil Service -I learnt this online and done it many times - Now i just send it off to RBC and pay them to do it, but i can do it myself if i have the time.

Bearing replacement - This is doable yourself, at most you will save on labor, but you will need to have the  bearing puller tools for removal and reinstalling. I made my own from threaded rod and some different size washers, which work great. When i change bearings, i dont skimp i replace them all even the ones that still look okay.

As far as tools go - there are not that many that you would need to add to your toolbox

Bike service stand (this is a must) - Spoke wrench - Allen Key set - Torx set - tire levers - cable cutter - 15mm pedal spanner - Chain whip - chain break tool - chain wear gauge - Cassette tool - BB tool depending on your BB type - Valve core removal tool - shock pump (you should have gotten one with the bike) - big bottle of Stans - some syringes - proper grease, I'm sure some can add to these baisc tools needed

Over the years i've gotten more and more adventureous and made a lot of bearing tools - Park wheel building stand with all the bells and whistles (which i never use) Built my own bike service stand - Air compressor (Makes tire maintenance a pleasure) air gun and digital tire inflators. I even have the L/R thread taps and inserts for crank repairs.

So over time you learn basic service skills and eventually you will be stripping and rebuilding the entire bike saving you lots of money at the LBS

The best part is if something isnt done right you only have to argue with yourself and not some A/hole wannabe bike mechanic 

 

 

 

[The Ouzo]

On 4/14/2024 at 9:56 AM, madmarc said:

My view on cost of maintenance for cycling, especially with MTBing and more so MTBing with FS bike - You need to learn some basic service skills - there are lots of resources online like University of U Tjoob and even on some OEM websites. Invest in some time and try them out yourself you will realise it isnt rocket science and will save you 1000's of ronds

So what should you be able to do yourself

Wheels - Fix a puncture; Change a tire; replace rim tape and gorilla snot; do a complete tjoobless conversion; True a bent wheel; Depending on which hubs you have you should be able to to service and replace hub bearings 

Brakes - Replace brake shoes; re-cable brakes - A bit more advanced, but brake bleeding is not that hard. 

Drive Train - Remove the cranks; remove and reisntall a BB; Measure wear on a chain; be able to break a chain to correct length; replace a chainring; replace a cassette; RD setting and tweaking; replace RD jocky wheels. Re-cable gears.

Suspension - Oil Service -I learnt this online and done it many times - Now i just send it off to RBC and pay them to do it, but i can do it myself if i have the time.

Bearing replacement - This is doable yourself, at most you will save on labor, but you will need to have the  bearing puller tools for removal and reinstalling. I made my own from threaded rod and some different size washers, which work great. When i change bearings, i dont skimp i replace them all even the ones that still look okay.

As far as tools go - there are not that many that you would need to add to your toolbox

Bike service stand (this is a must) - Spoke wrench - Allen Key set - Torx set - tire levers - cable cutter - 15mm pedal spanner - Chain whip - chain break tool - chain wear gauge - Cassette tool - BB tool depending on your BB type - Valve core removal tool - shock pump (you should have gotten one with the bike) - big bottle of Stans - some syringes - proper grease, I'm sure some can add to these baisc tools needed

Over the years i've gotten more and more adventureous and made a lot of bearing tools - Park wheel building stand with all the bells and whistles (which i never use) Built my own bike service stand - Air compressor (Makes tire maintenance a pleasure) air gun and digital tire inflators. I even have the L/R thread taps and inserts for crank repairs.

So over time you learn basic service skills and eventually you will be stripping and rebuilding the entire bike saving you lots of money at the LBS

The best part is if something isnt done right you only have to argue with yourself and not some A/hole wannabe bike mechanic 

 

 

 

and yet somethings are not worth the frustration and its easier to pay the mechanic to sort it out.

 

Did a sealant topup yesterday. I've been putting it off because my wheel and tyre combo are a PIA. Always one tyre that wont seat.

I thought I was in luck, my neighbour started his compressor up before I started, I asked if I could come and use it and was given the thumbs up.

Rear wheel. 10 minutes start to finish, no issues.

Front wheel, as I let the air out is unseated. I topped up, then decided I was going to try the old tube over the tyre to hold it under pressure trick. Consequently lost half the sealant out the tyre.

Went next door, compressor was not helping, we bumped the compressor up to 10bar, still no luck.

Jumped in the car, headed to the nearest petrol station. Tried a few times, lost more sealant, still not seating.

 

So I headed home, drained what sealant was left and decided to put everything in the car and take it to the LBS this morning. I'll pay their R200 and let them deal with it.

[BaGearA]

6 minutes ago, The Ouzo said:

and yet somethings are not worth the frustration and its easier to pay the mechanic to sort it out.

 

Did a sealant topup yesterday. I've been putting it off because my wheel and tyre combo are a PIA. Always one tyre that wont seat.

I thought I was in luck, my neighbour started his compressor up before I started, I asked if I could come and use it and was given the thumbs up.

Rear wheel. 10 minutes start to finish, no issues.

Front wheel, as I let the air out is unseated. I topped up, then decided I was going to try the old tube over the tyre to hold it under pressure trick. Consequently lost half the sealant out the tyre.

Went next door, compressor was not helping, we bumped the compressor up to 10bar, still no luck.

Jumped in the car, headed to the nearest petrol station. Tried a few times, lost more sealant, still not seating.

 

So I headed home, drained what sealant was left and decided to put everything in the car and take it to the LBS this morning. I'll pay their R200 and let them deal with it.

Years of experience tell me another layer of rim tape here would've saved you. 

[madmarc]

1 hour ago, The Ouzo said:

and yet somethings are not worth the frustration and its easier to pay the mechanic to sort it out.

 

Did a sealant topup yesterday. I've been putting it off because my wheel and tyre combo are a PIA. Always one tyre that wont seat.

I thought I was in luck, my neighbour started his compressor up before I started, I asked if I could come and use it and was given the thumbs up.

Rear wheel. 10 minutes start to finish, no issues.

Front wheel, as I let the air out is unseated. I topped up, then decided I was going to try the old tube over the tyre to hold it under pressure trick. Consequently lost half the sealant out the tyre.

Went next door, compressor was not helping, we bumped the compressor up to 10bar, still no luck.

Jumped in the car, headed to the nearest petrol station. Tried a few times, lost more sealant, still not seating.

 

So I headed home, drained what sealant was left and decided to put everything in the car and take it to the LBS this morning. I'll pay their R200 and let them deal with it.

The strugle is real i tell you - I just did my 26er wheels - Front would just not hold air - removed the tire about 4 times cleaned the rim and the tire bead, rim tape was still fine, pumped it to 4 bar, water and soaped the entire rim and bead, no bubbles, came back 30 min later and its flat - WTF!!

I lost my Sh%t and dunked the pumped wheel in the pool only to find a hole in the sidewall.

Note to self - Next time soap the rim and tire