covie

You did? just wondering if they struggled so much how come they were in front?

all ya all STFU and go ride your bikes ...... jeeeezas. Ok its been swell back to work.

whatcha bitching about tomorrow's weather is bootiful can get a lekka pre weekend ride in, spend saturday huddling indoors, and then sunday a bit of strength training in the wind. Rule 7 peeps

The cheapest ones are "splashproof" the more expensive ones are rated properly waterproof. Its clearly states on the box. That said i have cheaper and expensives ones, official magicshine and ripp offs and they have all outlasted water weather and rain, and one or two dips in rivers.

if thats the rules im sure any opsoition would have done the same so not seeing the point here.

Get the XTC components break, and then you replace them one by one, looking for a decent secondhand frame doesnt always pan out. And to open a can of worms i use to be XT/XTR freak, thought my new bike with a mix of x7 x9 will be stripped immedialty and upgraded, X7/x9 kicks the crap out of shimano XT. Havent felt the need to remove a singular component. I am no a SRAM fan when the first thing breaks XX/XO here i come.

Ill let you have the honors lol.... I still say its true though

Nah Caerus, Fox makes a great but highly overpriced fork thats total high maintenance thats just a fact unfortuanitly. for half the price of a entry level fox you can get a Reba that outperforms most fox forks "in my humble opinion" and the Reba's you service once a year if you ride them hard. If your a weekend warrior once every two years is generally fine.

To answer your question fox doesnt offer anything at the same price as a RS Recon, that said, I own high end bikes in general, and had to ride with a recon gold instead of my Reba RLT ti, and the recon copes with everything the Reba or the Fox does. Its just not as plush, So nothing wrong with a recon gold air shock. (i didnt know you still get coil shocks these days) And stay away from fox, a great shock that you have to spend a fortune on to service the bloody things every 3 months or they will drop you at the worst possible time by splurging liquid like a 14 year old school nerd.

Well look at the hub logic here and generally SA logic, a custom build cycle lane is put down for the saftey and conveniance of us cyclists at a great cost. Now, becuase its not designed for "group" or "club" rides and the fact that you might have the inconveniance to touch your brakes and turn your handlebars becuase the service is not buttery smooth, the logic here dicates that its not to be used since its more fun and better training doing a group ride with 7 abreast in the middle of heavy traffic therefore it must be legal because its not a perfect solution that we wanted. Roughly equates in my mind to taxis thinking they have right of way in oncomming traffic, the yellow lane is for their use exclusivley and indicators are optional accessories.

1940 5106 Reg. 311(7) Pedal cyclist rode a pedal cycle on a portion of the road not set aside for cyclists I 2 100 50 50 0 Very open to interpretation that regulation is,

Almost none of the SA distrobuters will take back any tyre for any reason, Its up to the lbs if they happy to take it back or not, has nothing to do with Conti per se. In the UK and EU its a diff story.

We need to stop agreeing , yeah i normally take my geax or my conti's change them floor pump and sorted, I have two maxxis ikons the normal foldable and the exo, the foldable one the bike shop managed to fit once, took it off and have never been able to get it to seat again. The exo one is now on a spare rim with an overinflated tube in it to see if I can manage to form the tyre properly so it will seat. I am not hopefull. As to the longevity of the ikon vs x-king. The post above refers to normal folding bead x-king which is the same tpi as the maxxis exo 120 tpi, I destroyed the sidewall on the folding ikon, after about 200km on it. So yeah the x-king foldable should not be run tubeless and neither should the ikon. The x-king protection is 240tpi double that of the maxxis, and the x-king UST is about 320tpi almost 3 times that of the maxxis. I am happy with the strength of the middle ground vs weight ratio, i.e. the conti protections. The x-king also corners better and sheds mud much easier, take a ikon on a wet rock or root at your own peril. I did like the ikon in summer condtions though, but its not worth the effort of getting them on the rim and if they that crap to seat, makes me wonder how easily they come of the rim under load.

DTswiss cheese again tsk tsk tsk.

so who is seeded where?

Yeah im with you, if you take your bike to any bike shop and the pedal is stuck they will rack it up and moer it off, your BB wont be harmed unless you go on like a gorrila in heat.

look at "2nd change welfware" on FB they placed one of my dogs.

youd be amazed you dont hit with any force, you can pin it down and jump with your full weight on the pedalwrench and it doesnt move a mm, couple of soft taps with a hammer and it releases just fine,

Did you put grease on before you put it on, what generally happens is simply no grease, so it rusts a bit and becomes tough to remove, 1 x spanner and a couple of taps with a hammer sorts out 99% of these cases.

your going to have to compare tha AM classics against the ZTR gold race not the crest, and the gold race is about 10k

renay@sciencetosport.com

definite sizing issue there lol, go do a ergofit or bgfit before you buy a new bike, that way you know exactly what your reach is and what geometry will suit you best. And you can use the settings to dial in your new beast.

I didnt want to say anything about his comment about x-king being weak, conti's in my experience, and i have had most of them are some of the toughest rubber arround. Definitly tougher than anything maxxis geax or schwalbe has (have managed to totally destroy all three these brands consistently). But you do get the odd one in the bunch, i managed to rip off a side knob on one of my mountainking 2's a while back. Actually threw away a brand new maxxis icon wanted to put it on, after an hour at the bike shop half a bottle of stans neither me nor any of the bike mechanics could get the tyre to inflate enough to settle on the bead. I think we nearly burned out the compressor trying. I think i now realize why a certain bike shop had/have them on special. Currently running the x-king protections and I am very happy with them.

Gaint then scott then momsen, Momsen might have a kickass groupo with steller wheels, but with the topline group and wheels it wheighs the same as the Gaint/Scott with medium spec groupo, i.e. you can still shed a lot of the Giant and the Scott, and not the Momsen, (if weight is your thing)

go demo a 29'er you have to realize some things, 1. there are a lot of people that paid a fortune for their 26" bikes and they will defend them to the death, 2. In europe where most of the tracks gets ridden with AM/DH bikes they prefer the 26" format and not the 29" format becuase they need the extra travel. 3. 98% of ST in SA doesnt require you to have a long travel 26"bike and can be done just as fast if not faster on the latest generation 29'ers 4. 650B or 27.5" might become an option but it will take them just as long to sort out the products and geometry and designs as they did with 29" so you might have a decent 27.5 bike in about 3-6 years from now. 5. if you want a 29"er that can handle just as good as a 26" you will need to look at the more niche brands though. The bikes you mention are specifically designed for marathon type races and might be slightly deadfooted although the giant XTC have had some rave reviews on the handling aspect. 6. Theres nothing wrong owning a 26 or 29" both get the job done, generally if your a tall lad 29" will suit you better, if your a shorty 26" will feel more comfortable.