Skylark

Lol, just imagine the amount of money and work to fix that body up and then you still have a patched up hulk(still riddled with hidden rust) with no engine or drive train. I can only think people with too much money get stupid!

Thanks Andyman, that sounds more like it. How often should a Dt175 be rebuilt to keep them reasonably peppy, every 30,000km or so, that's with careful moderate riding?

Nice one Nerd, whereabouts are you based, hope you are also selling online? Once you get volumes up couriering gets quite affordable, from what I have heard a good deal closer to R50 than R100 per std courier bag.

I've been itching to get another Dt175, such awesome bikes that anyone can work on, the price I was referring to was for a rebore of the cylinder and rebuild of the crank, I also thought the price was a little excessive. What ballpark figure at Yamaha's typical retail spares prices could you do a rebore + piston + gaskets/seals + crank rebuild for on a Dt175?

You guys mentioned R40k to rebuild a older 250 2t road bike motor, why so expensive? Are oe parts even available for those bikes? That being said I spoke to a Yamaha dealer R15k just to do a Dt175 engine, which was rebuild crank + piston so not even a total overhaul.

I'm assuming that results in premature/accelerated wear on the piston and rings relative to more modern bikes with air filters?

Does that nice looking chrome air intake hide a decent air filter inside it? Historically bikes of that era sucked air straight as it came, incl dust and whatever was kicked up by the rear wheel?

What do you guys think about these micro coffee roasting machines that are popping up in coffee shops every where, some aren't much bigger than a desktop computer tower. If the operator knows his stuff and has good beans can they produce good coffee? I'm sure the old cooking adages apply, consistency of temperature, even temps throughout the roaster etc, things that often aren't always feasible or possible in small diy type cooking machines running small batches but I'm not sure if that has as much affect in coffee roasting or not.

Those gearboxes can be a real pita, I found one of the 1st generation Dt250 a good few years ago, it ran well but wouldn't shift into 5th gear, split the crankcase so many times trying to work out why, would shift fine when stationary and then not at speed, eventually gave up and sold the bike as is.

I can imagine your tears of frustration with your own wreck but I said use an impact drivers/drill to loosen not tighten, they are perfectly safe if not the preferable tool in that instance. I have yet to strip threads loosening a bolt/nut with an impact driver/drill but I have rounded many a nut/bolt/screw head of impossibly tight fasteners before the advent of cordless impact drivers/drills and significantly less since. In any case in the right hands cordless impact drivers/drills are also fine for tightening as long as you do the final tighten by hand/torque wrench, if you are paranoid and feel that you can't rely on your hands just set the clutch to a torque well below the desired final torque, use 2N.m for instance. Any tool can destroy in the wrong hands, common sense - use it!!

Perhaps also try a slightly thicker oil. Best thing to open those engine side cover screws is a cordless impact driver or 2hnd best a cordless drill, either allows alot of down pressure to be applied keeping the driver bit engaged in the screw head whilst the tool does the loosening. Also there's that trick if the engine has an aluminium casing, which most do, hit the screw heads with a screwdriver and big hammer which somehow breaks the lock, very easy to loosen them after that. I remember my Xt200 side cover screws getting insanely tight despite only torquing them to spec, then an old bike master dude shows me the hammer blow technique, thought it must be bs when I initially heard about it but it works like magic in most instances.

Good points there, which reminded me that you'll pretty much be guaranteed to get all and any spares for these engines on eBay for peanuts, I'd definitely have a look there at the very least.

And only R500k, fark me.

I think most people on this thread DIY rather than capsule but that sum does put the cost into perspective!! R1000 for 1kg of stale grounds :eek: My little eBay cheapie ceramic burr grinder properly opened my eyes to the value of freshly ground, ain't nothing that can compare, the grinder needed a little fiddling to get the burr to grind correctly centered but now working like a champ.

Thanks for the explanation guys, with the doserless do you just grind until you are happy the portafilter is as fill as you want it or can you tell the machine to grind say 8g/1 shot/2 shot?

I've heard that term but what exactly is doser vs doserless?

Some GPS tracks must be available for such an often ridden route?

That's one of the challenges with building up a non runner, you never know what surprises await when you get it complete and ready to run.

How much is shipping? I can't see that without registering

Link to the item on Takealot?

I have bought the Guatemalan beans a few times and they were great relative to other store bought beans, price also good. Do keep an eye on the manufacturered/sell by date, they can sometimes sit on the shelves for a long time before you get there, not always but I have seen them pretty old before so I just took the freshest beans variety they had.

Hahaha classic come back!! The meditation one.

That's the coil and spinning magnet parts? Seeing this isn't a stock build/renovation wouldn't it have been hugely cheaper/more convenient to have an engineering shop fabricate those bits from scratch.

Has anyone used a Kway Franklin rain jacket, the breathable DWR one that's R1400 from Cape Union Mart, if anyone has I'd be interested to know how waterproof it is and how breathable? Has anyone used breathable gore-tex type rain jackets and have recommendations/advice?

Does anyone sell the Baratza Virtuoso Coffee Grinder in SA?