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Chat to wayne at Rapide. They do a 12speed non boost freebody micro spline hub, with thru axle Ive got one, its great

Becareful you don't void the towbar warranty by going to the car agents

You like to throw money away... Go sit on the people that fitted it rather

Adding my 2c in here to compliment Lyne on the great service My dropper started acting up (well, not up), I contacted Dayle and they were quick to send a courier to collect, ship it down to the cape, service it, and send it back all under warranty. Thanks Dayle, its been a pleasure to deal with Lyne components and your team

Its your earth connection to the car plug that is faulty which is not making a good connection, or a dry joint. Any towbar fitment centre will sort you out in a jiffy, or if you are confident with a small screwdriver, open the car plug yourself and ensure the connections are all good (Use Barry's drawing above, its the same for the car) 12v isnt complicated - but everyone tries to make it complicated in order to fleece you out of your hard earned beer coupons

Then I'd hazard a guess he was trying to bullsh!t you

That makes no sense to add weights to dampen a vibration or frequency on the frame. You'd have to put a fair amount as a thumb suck, or dial it in specifically and be super accurate on the weight and position. Excitor beam 1 0 1 How much did he add?

Meezo, I think, has the better solution above. Face the frame posts a little, maybe give it a gentle file with an emery board or (not so coarse) file to ensure the face is flush with the caliper mounting faces - also remove any paint residue/powder coating on the caliper faces/frame faces to ensure a cleaner mate of the two surfaces. Dont take too much off as it'll change the angle of the caliper to the rotation of the disc. Also, put a little drop of thread lock on the caliper bolts, and torque to correct spec

I have a set of Rapide's already which I'm very happy with

Thanks Theo. I'll call Wayne later

Thanks Nico

Thanks chaps One of the dings is leaking, so I'd rather send it away for a quick panel beat. @nick_the_wheelbuilder you in Jhb?

S'up hubbers? Any suggestions for a wheel repair person in the local Jhb area? Here's the gen: Aluminum rim (mtb) 30mm width The rim has 3 dents in it which I need panel beaten out on the non drive side (I presume its from running the pressure too soft) - The dents are the outer edge of the rim which has bent inwards. 2 of them still seat without a hassles, the one doesn't and leaks sealant They're a 5 month old wheel set and spec'd for enduro/down hill style riding, but I suspect the supplier will not entertain a claim due to my reason above I can drop off tomorrow or Wednesday and don't mind waiting as I have a second wheel-set to continue with the daily riding. Any suggestions?

Over the years roadie bikes have been designed to go faster etc - you know, the whole aero stuff and all which besets itself to an internal headset routing of the cables. Mtb's... well, thats the exact opposite. I believe over the past 20 years the bikes were designed to be slower in order to climb, hit gnarly trails blah blah. So, that being said, what the point of internal brake cable routing through the headset for aero benefits? (assuming you have electronic shifting of course). I think a mtb rider will get better aero benefits by wearing more roadie type lyca with less floppy shirts, baggie pants, have a smoother rolling tyre tread and passes a good throne sitting in the morning. I'm about 95% of the way there on my mtb as it is and love my lycra Oh, sorry, I digressed a bit there NsbB....If you're going for the cool factor, then hell yes do it. It looks the part for sure. A clean and tidy cockpit is the bomb. I recall seeing on the Porsche e-bike video doing the rounds a while ago that those bikes had internal headset routings - they looked like a dream!

Or get hold of @droo I think he taught @Bicycle Yard Zarras WESTERN CAPE the ropes 😉

What he said 👆

Should put a keeper in those pockets - some nice KVD triple grip #6's or #8's treble hooks will do the trick Sadly, sometimes violence is the only answer @Jewbacca 😉 Today is that day

Please be cautious when you visit a shop... They'll spin you the worlds best ideas to get the sale that might not be right for you. Sure, go visit, ask questions, look-see etc. Then walk away and think about it. And, don't forget to budget for safety gear - helmet, gloves, warmer gear, maybe shoes (at a later date), some decent socks etc - sorry if I missed this from an earlier post

I say let the OP buy that HT and the fork. Having a look at his previous posts, it seems taking advice is not part of the curriculum. Lets call it school fees

You chaps are too generous on the lauf. If you scratch around you'll find them wanting for around 3k to 4k max. Askhole... thats the best chirp Ive heard all month! 🤣🤣

You'd be surprised jewbacca Heck, I know I do sometimes, fortunately its not today

It changes the angle of your fork to be more slack (ie: a slightly longer wheel base), without changing any major components on the frame https://9point8.ca/collections/slack-r-kits If you buy that HT, just know the lauf fork is very specific for its intended use. You'll hate it on the first single track you hit.

Geez, put a slack-r-kit on it and be done. No need to change up that frame for a HT

No disrespect to the lady, but I'm sure Ive seen her in the area riding solo - and the area isnt exactly the safest either