nox1111

Mmmm, I don't know. Feels like a hoax, even though the new climb st is absolutely fantastic, I don't think it cuts actual climbing time to saaltjie. My times on both is within 2mins of one another to the top.

I've had the same issue previously and only realized after getting the wheels built. Tubeless and all ready to ride...so my deepest empahthy. My Fox 36 came with a broken cable guide from CRC - I fought with them for a while and they ended up sending me a new billet one. I reckon stand your ground and ask at least for the adapters for free.

Yassie, just checked all the POV's from top to bottom all stages - moerdyk, in for a lot of time in the hurtbox. Fitness at 1/10 is not really a good place to start...

Flip, seems I'm also in - haven't raced an enduro in a while. Looking forward along with serious nerves...

1. Measure steerer tube properly before cutting. Measure three times before cutting. Include top cap, spacers stem and headset cap in that measurement and then take around 5mm off that overall length to make sure that it is good to go. 2. As the other guys said - don't do a big race or day out on a freshly serviced or newly built bike. Ride it at least once before to settle in and suss out issues.

1. In general - it is better to do-over than to overdo. 2. I have gotten a bearing press stuck in a frame after pressing in chainstay bearings... and I had to get in a second opinion to come up with a plan to get it out. There's a lesson in there - make sure the press removes to the outside, not the inside of the stays. 3. After getting silicon sealant on my rear rotor, there's only one way to get it off (and I tried everything else first). Get a small plate, douse brake pads in around a shot of spirits and burn them with the brake surface up. Wait for flame to go out completely (this is important - otherwise you will end up without facial hair). And redo. Redo another three or four times. You'll hear them boil and see the bubbles and eventually they burn silent. Then, wait to cool, sand lightly with 350grit and wipe off dust with a paper towel. Then also burn your rotor brake surface 2 or 3 times - until it is clean - you can actually see the contaminant burn off. Fit and go (don't touch the brake surfaces again with your fingers) - best braking I've ever had! 3B. Apparently silicon sealant makes a moeruva good lubricant. 4. Soldering cut cable ends (I hear superglue works just as well and is easier). 5. I still (to the irritation of my colleagues and riding partners) fit my tyres wrong way around pretty often... but can not tell the difference on the trail tbh, so I just leave them that way. 6. Emergency valve core in your spares can save you a long walk home. 7. Building solid & straight wheels are actually easy - the 5th time around. 8. Calculating spoke lengths for said wheel is not in my list of talents.

I'm of the opinion that most brand name brakes will be good if set up correctly. I've, up to recently, ridden with the new Deore M6000's and they were great - not a minute worth of hassle. Good modulation, plenty of power. I did however manage to get silicone sealant on my rotor which caused me hours of trouble - and then I figured out how to clean it properly and back to good braking. I moved on to new Zees and they are better yes - but not by an arm's length. Decent brakes are one thing - but you have to match them to good pads and good quality rotors. I've even ridden the new Acera, Altus or Alivio's (they look very alike if you don't pay them too much attention) on a demo ebike and they were very good -considering they are dirt cheap.

Please post some pics when you get it!

Jy al jou bike gaan ry? nope - ekt noggie

Ito value - you won't beat the Stratos AL5 for bang for your bucks. That is the identical frame used on the AL1 - the top end Alloy machine that costs around R40k. This has new school geometry (very similar to the Stratos SBC bikes) and fit for purpose parts. It is internal dropper post ready and if you're not going to be rallying enduro stages, there's nothing wrong with that fork. The Skyrim is not even close to the same type of bike... different categories

any pics - sounds rad?

I dig that vibe, but will pass - I'll end up with chainmail

aaand lycra for male ballerinas I don't know what male is for ballerina. Ballerista? Ball-exhibitionist? Jokes. I get why - but not a fan and they just don't look right on my skateboard - er, em with flat pedals and sneakers

I have no issues with Maxed if they look/work lekke. Padded etc?

It seems they only do two versions - both Upadded

Hey guys, I've now officially worn my Fox Ranger and my el-cheapo baggies from the UK to bits and keen to get a nice new pair. I want a padded liner with the shorts - I'm not keen for a bib under a baggy or boardshorts. Any pointers of what to look for, where to look? Ideally not imports and I've destroyed google without satisfying results. Not keen on orange, neon yellow or even bright blues. Prefer grey, black or navy - or at least darker colours. I've already looked at: Fox Ranger new version - so far on topIndola enduro shorts - two zipper pockets at odd placesFirst Ascent Trail baggies - pretty good actually, but Med too small and large way too big.

don't you trashtalk my trance! I loved my Trance. This machine is pretty special. Magic carpet

Yes, it will be. Had a look at production artwork - moerdyk!

I may or may not have lost it and went overboard... Split and parted out my bikes and built a new machine: Silverback Slider 150mm 29" prototype asymmetric frame - testing this, not available YET Fox Float Trunnion rear shock Reynolds TR309S Carbon 29" wheelset Fox Float 36 Elite 150mm fork XFusion 150mm dropper Shimano Zee brakes Icetech rotors 180mm F/R 35mm Sector Trail bars, 45mm stem Borntobefast enduro lockon grips Ryder Copy Spez saddle (not sure I like this yet) To accompany this I also got a Fox dropframe helmet I'm running a mix of tyres since my back end clearance on the prototype does not yet allow my Rekon 2.6" GX Eagle drivetrain No decent photos of the complete yet.

https://www.bikehub.co.za/classifieds/361451-stans-flow-s1-2019-on-promax-hubs/ you should have dropped me a pm

Not all 'new bike days' are blasting through berms and hitting jumps...

that seems to work... but I would hazard a guess - only on downhills.

Please no! On the ups I had 32/42 to get me up there. I tried a singlespeed for one G-Spot session, and hated the ups, and spun out on the downs.

I did a shoddy job of setting my gears before my last ride, and didn't notice before I was around 500m away from my car, so I only had top 4 or 5 gears on my cassette working. And having little time for a ride, I decided to keep going and to work with what I have. Long story short, the climb up Helderberg was fine, not an issue. BUT, going down there's no way to pedal fast enough in the available gearing. So that forced me to flow to keep speed in sections where I would normally just work in a crank or two. Strava don't lie (often) but I had three of my best DH sections on the trails, without being able to out power down when needed.

Hey, I can not speak for all the other tyres - but an Ibex 2.4 works 100's for me. I ride the absolute hell out of them and have yet to run out of grip in corners. My recommendation - oil on your rotors, forcing you to carry even more speed through corners - the notion to stay alive will add major grip to your tyres. jks.