TheV

Do they have a frameset only option, wondering if the sum of the parts add up to the complete retail price? I would guess that you could build a more reasonably priced top spec option for a lot less, different forks, wheels, finishing kit... It's still an awesome bike, if I had the cash to splash, why NOT?

Fork me, these threads about who should ride this/buy that, and what is too expensive or blah blah blah... So what house is enough for an average person? What should you spend on food/clothes, etc then? Cars, woman, ???? Why do you care what other people spend their money on? Why judge or decide for others, just get over it. No one can tell you what's good enough "for you". It's all relative to what you earn and how important the cycling/hobby is to YOU. Further to that it comes down to your individual DNA and makeup. If bikes are your thing, then feel free to indulge, if not move along and stop trying to judge other people. It's not your place to decide what others should drop their cash on. Such a stupid mentality. Argh!!!!

The "Switch" technology first seen in the SB-66 was only licensed by Yeti for a period of 3 years exclusivity. They co-only developed it and they had 3 years, from 2011. So this is no big surprise. I'm still trying to understand how exactly this works, but the obvious advantage at the moment is the weight saving, getting this frame to 2.3kg's is amazing, compared to the first SB-66's in the 2.8+kg range ... The weight of the previous system was what killed the success of the SB-95, awesome bike, but was just way too heavy. The carbon versions were better, but still not great in the weight class. I'm a Yeti fan, but can't say that I have that "must have it" attraction to this bike... not the best looking Yeti imo.

If you are like me, just knowing the "crack" is there will drive me nutz...

You would think the forks design need to include a guard of sorts, like on the Lefty's... I cringe to think what a wrong line through a rock garden could potentially do to the "lowers"....

Condolences. RIP.

Classic footage your shiner will heal-up, and you will always have that recording. Imagine in 20 years from now how you going to laugh when watching that again. Looks like you just hesitated a bit too much there, the other rider in front didn't help either, maybe caused you to slow down cause before that you were going at a lekker speed, in sections like those, speed is your friend and the slightest hesitation a fkup.

Too many pies?

Yes, but you push you bike most of the time. I'm around 1.8 bars in front, and closer to 2 bars in the rear for me..

Hi Ludolf, welcome to thehubsa. Buy a continental Race-King for real, and X-King for the fron, and never worry about grip, punctures, weight, speed or anything tire related again. 2.3 bar is high, the trend is lower pressures nowadays, try going down slowly.

From your list, the Silverback offers best value/spec. The lightest, Shimano brakes a big +, try and get a better deal/discount on it.

Charged as a criminal? Wow, really?

Post from phone, sorry for grammar, spelling, ranting, too difficult to edit, etc.

Couple of things can cause noisy brakes, common issue with new bikes, especially the entry level brake sets and rotors. Brakes have to be run in. But before you do that you have to get the basics right first. Firstly take out the pads and ensure pistons are pushed in evenly and flush on both sides. If they are not flush/equally set you won't get them to move in concert. Be careful not to pull the brake lever too much without the pads/rotor installed otherwise the pistons will pop out. But sometimes it helps oiling the pistons by braking them out and dabbing some brake fluid around them, pushing them back in/out till the move together. Install pads, and try to align caliper as perfectly centered as possible, taking into account the alignment is aimed at having both pads making contact at the same time on the rotor when braking. After you can spin the wheel freely without pad contact, and also get both pads to engage at the same time, as as close balance as you can get, then you have to make a couple of high speed straight line tar road brakes by going fast, braking slowly and increasing breaking force until total stop. Do a couple of runs breaking back only, then front only, then both front/back, easing into braking power to seat pads and rotors. After than you can check alignments again, maybe have to another couple of braking sessions. Not many shop mechanics will spend this amount if time getting brakes run in and set up for you. It's a personal investment. Be very careful when you clean your bike to never contaminate the pads or rotors, use isopropyl alcohol to clean rotors and pads.

If you have Chrome - you just right click on the Image and choose "Search Google for this Image" - you will find other listings on other sites. It should be the #1 thing you do when buying online. It will uncover 95%+ of scams.

Continental X-King front, Continental Race King rear.

Spez or Cannondale, they like to mix X7/X9? Don't know why they don't just make the bike R500-R750 more and make full X9. Irks me. In any case, the X9 is awesome, what you could probably do is just upgrade the X7 shifters they usually sneak in to X9, because you would notice a difference there, but do it in your own time as fun spoil yourself upgrade down the line... next major upgrade could be the brakes, if they gave you 5 or 7 series brakeset then it's going to suck. Wheels on Spez or Cannondale are usually not too bad on X7/9 level bikes.

You are joking right, did you take his badge number?

Delta Park being taken over by the organised fun walks and runs anyhow these days.... gazillions of them nowadays.

Just goto Morningside Cycles and look at the Yeti's, for enduro I'd certainly go for the 66 or 75, not to keen on the 95 unless you splash out on the carbon.

You just dwaal in front of the pie counter, no getting past you there. Seriously, forget about the letter and check out the hairy-leg model they put in the mag wearing R20,000 racing outfits and garments. I'm having nightmares. Almost like seeing mayhem in Lycra.

Serious? So cheap they can't even afford to shave his legs or photoshop in a vein or cyclist tan, etc?

On the topic of this Bicycling issue, did anyone notice the model they used to show off +- R10,000 winter riding outfits- he look the part, at first glance... if you then take another look and see his scrawny hairy legs with no calves or any sign of ever being a real cyclist, wtf is up with choosing such a poser to pose such expensive kit?

Was she hot? Cause it totally matters to me if the chick who rides into me is hot or not....

About 15%-16% for the vat and admin fees, no tax on frames.