Alouette3

Replaced my rims a while back with Rapide 30mm ID rims, the front is holding up ok still but the rear lasted 2 months before being completed destroyed, rim bead folded in on itself with no major evidence of a big hit, so tossed it and replaced with a Spank. School fees paid.

Know how everyone likes their ACME cups, heads up at Whitehouse they running a special on their own label cups, turn them over... ACME stamped on the bottom. R50 each and 6 for R250

Go for the Teng Tool unit. I've got one in my toolbox. Great quality, comes with calibration certificate. The importers are based in Ndabeni and own an engineering works. Good support and will organise calibration etc too

Looking for 11 speed Shimano derailleur cages, medium and long cage for M7000/M8000 series. Any range Deore etc as long as it fits

Looks like the same part Lyne uses on their 27.2mm post, looking at the top picture. (Bottom ref pics is a Reverb)

Anyone have a Jeffsy Derailleur hanger?

Also got some Nukeproof Neutrons I've been running for years across multiple bikes, they grip like crazy and just don't die. Pity they don't make the aluminium Neurons any more, but if you can get your hands on a set, don't hesitate.

If you are swapping from Shimano levers and Calipers to a SRAM system, then you need to changes hoses with the levers and calipers. Shimano uses Mineral oil and SRAM uses Dot fluid (Just to confuse things, SRAM has now also released a range that uses Mineral oil)

Another option is simply sharing your live location on Google Maps with a chosen few. Can be a little problematic with iPhone as it's tends to kill off everything running in the background after a couple hours

Buy yourself a Shimano Deore 11-46T 10 speed cassette, a new chain and a front ring. Budget option, but good range, fairly affordable and no need for new shifter and derailleur. I'd start with a 30 or 32T chainring

On the up side, the dropper stanchion is not a sealing surface, so with a service you could possibly keep it running for a while still, depending on the damage. I've resurrected an old Reverb with badly damaged stanchion, someone gave me, using IGUS bushings, and it still does regular service on my dad's bike

I'd replace. Rim failure could land you at the dentist and the hospital

Contact Teng Tools, if they don't have they may be able to get

Thanks Zarras, I'll drop you a whatsapp 👍

Thanks Robert, let me know if you find one and we could maybe arrange to get it to CT, unless someone in CT has something. I have 10spd mechs, but the lever ratio is different between 9 and 10

Thanks, I'll check up with him what he has got. Did a bunch of work and with chain, grip etc a couple months back. He wants to get into it as exercise and commute

Looking for a Shimano compatible 9 SPD rear derailleur. The security guard that works across the road has destroyed his and want to help get his bike sorted.

Do it... I have a spot on the counter for that Oscar

Found a bike computer in Tokai this afternoon. Get in touch if it's yours or pass on the info to other riding groups

Watch out for rotating 2 different chain brands. I did this with a Shimano and KCNC chain, they wore at different rates and by the second rotation the one chain didn't mesh properly so had to go back to the old chain and ran it till everything was finished.

Dive shop will have Aquaseal. Pity you not in CT otherwise Paul at second wind could sort it out for you. Otherwise I'd help out, still got a bit stored in the freezer.

You are not easily going to gain more rear travel by changing the shock, maybe 10mm here and there on certain frame, but unlike a fork, extending your rear travel is often limited but the possibility of your rear wheel touching the frame or linkages interfering. Just because your frame can take it, doesn't mean you should either, there is a lot of science that goes into leverage ratios and progression, which could result in your bike riding much worse. If you new to full suspension, look into getting a proper suspension setup, or find someone that can teach you what everything does, so it's setup correctly and operating as its supposed to. If you really want, maybe try lengthen the fork length a bit?

So with cape winters on the way, here is a little something I found works great to keep the mud and junk from accumulating on my lower frame and around my lower pivot bearings. Cut down a cheap R50, commuter seat mount mud guard, available from most bike shops, drill a couple holes and add 2 beefy zip ties. I also put a strip of thin adhesive craft foam sheet where it contacts the frame. Ran it last season already with great results.

As much as I dislike the "Hout Bay Organised" FB group, it might be worthwhile putting a post up there to reach a wider audience. Have seen the community club together on a couple other projects, maybe someone is willing to help with tool and supplies.