Alouette3

Ask for the 2RS version which denotes rubber seals on each side rather then steel like in your link above

Replace

Some owners are also just stupid though, saw a Levo left on a bike rack last night, no chain or cable, only the clamp lock on the top tube which are know to do nothing at all.

Get some Magnetec 5w30 from your local Midas etc Would avoid fork oil for the lowers. There are a couple threads about oil alternatives. Droo will be along shortly with more info

Their home Cobrata blend makes a seriously good flat white

Last torque wrench my dad checked out at Cash Converters was a decent Geodore unit, but when asking the sales person, they said it's great, it just doesn't read accurately.... as if they didn't know what the use of the wrench is for. Look out for Teng Tools, very good product and they often run specials. Comes with a calibration certificate. I bought a cheap AutoZone 20-210 torque wrench from CC for just over a hundred bucks, still need to do a calibration on it, but basically just use it at 40-50nm for cranks and cassettes.

https://www.backyardbrewcoffee.co.za/ Found these guys at the Under the Trees market on the weekend, running some specials. Chatted with the owner a bit and bought some Nicaragua and their Cobrata blend. Keen to try it out!

I bought the Ryder 6nm unit. They about R210 and super hand for those bar clamps and stems etc

Dremel tool or needle file will sort out that insert quick quick. I important thing is that there is already a hole in the frame, so you are not modifying the frame. Otherwise toss the entire insert and just a grommet of sorts around the cables.

Buy tools individually as you require them I'd say. Start with the basics Cassette removal tool Chain whip External BB tool Spline BB tool (for square taper) Crank extraction tool (for square taper) Cable cutter - This is essential Chain breaker Cone spanners (if you run cup and cone bearings)

Run it into the frame on the left where the other cables go in. If the insert only allows for 2, you should be able to get another insert to allow a 3rd cable in.

That is a SRAM clamp mount you are after, fairly common, just not cheap. Other options are using an old left hand shifter and converting that, or a lever unit from Lyne or Rapidé cycles.

Let us know the brand and use, if it's a shifter or dropper post and it someone can steer you in the direction of which clamp you need. They all different.

That would be appreciated

You would be welcomed with open arms in this thread. Page 1 has nothing much to do with what it has become by page 420.

I'll give some feedback once I've used it a bit. Been wanting one for years. Know a couple helicopter engineers that have the whole range and it's all they have in the traveling tool case for spanners.

5-25nm. Got it through Teng Tools locally online. Normal price R1153, got it on their Braai Day special for R1038. Comes with calibration certificate etc and quality is tops. Drop Simon a mail, great bunch, very helpful and often run specials. Knipex came with a friend from the UK

New additions to the bench.

Knipe Racing has just replaced a drive side thread for me last week, they use inserts which as much better then using a Helicoil. R380

Think the general consensus here is that most things are better then Nespresso. Been using my Moka pot again a fair bit recently when I just want a quick americano style instead of warming up the Gaggia for a Cappuccino

Glad you stayed on! Learnt to respect the wind on Tokai Vasbyt /Dh3 entrance, 29" wheels are like sails in the SE'er, bought the second table top for the cost of a collar bone.

The stiffness is not found in the air strut, but rather the keys and bushings in the main stantion. Open up your lyne post and check for excessive wear or maybe a dud bushing. They have published a video on how to service. Though at a couple months old the play should not be excessive. Chat to Lyne, they always very helpful.

Use an old left hand front shifter. Pop it open, remove the ratcheting mechanism spring and you sorted and you will probably get one for free from someone

Won't work, I tried on my Radac single speed.

Basically any 28H rim will work, if you importing then maybe Chain reaction has something in their Nukeproof range? The important number to look for is the ERD if you are wanting to keep your spokes and nipples. The ERD will basically give you the diameter of the rim at the point where the nipples rest on. ±2mm should be fine and you can keep the same spoke length.