Captain Fastbastard Mayhem

Right to a point, but if there are gears left and ir just won't move beyond a certain point then it's more than likely a slipped cable in addition to the barrel adjusters. The fact that it was okay beforehand points to slipped cable syndrome, as no matter how useless an LBS mech is, I doubt they've had adjusted the barrel adjusters when shifting was performing fine before and after the service. If they even touched the shifters at all to begin with.

Nope. Sound like a case of slipped cable syndrome. Treated many of these trail side on unsuspecting riders who suddenly can't shift anymore. Shift into top gear (10th) on the RD, tighten the barrel adjuster on both the derailleur and the shifter (so that the little knobbies are completely in the barrel adjusters, and all tension has been removed from the cable) and then loosen the bolt that holds the cable in place on to the derailleur. At the same time, put a bit if lube into the cable housings and shuffle the cable housing around to distribute the lube along the cable. Adjust the limit bolt so that the derailleur sits in the proper position for 10th gear. Then pull the cable as tight as possible, and reattach to the derailleur. Route the cable so that it rests on the uppermost side of the bolt, so that when you tighten the bolt it in turn pulls the cable tight as well (if you put it on the bottom of the bolt, it'll fray the cable when you tighten the bolt, and loosen the cable tension at the same time) You've now taken up all the slack that was there before, and can start adjusting cable tension to get the shifting right. Remember to adjust the upper limit screw so that the derailleur doesn't shift past 1st gear. If you have a top normal rear derailleur (where the derailleur naturally sits under 1st gear when all tension is released) then substitute 10th with 1st and do exactly the same operations. If that doesn't fix it, then it's more than likely a dropout hangar. But the fact that you still have shifts left on the smallest gear points to cable slippage.

You won't feel a big difference in the climbing, but it's 10% extra travel. Which will help a LOT on te bumpy and fast technical stuff. Doooo eeeeet

And then you get the standard response of "but we have crossmarks. Those are THE.BEST.EVER"

Yep. Naas, I tell you one thing - if you're able to get quality 26" rubber in stock, reliably, then I shall sing it from the rooftops. Most (okay, all but one) of my riding buddies are on 26", and we ALL like good rubber. And we ALL have to either bring it in from overseas, or faff around searching between bike shops who may or may not stock a rangy old Minion DHF or at best a Nobby Nic. That needs to stop. And I reckon that ratio has a lot to do with people being forced to buy from CRC / Wiggle / EBay etc

If that's te case, then there's still a definite market for the sixer tyre. I hope you're doing your bit in trying to get the distributors to wake up and smell the motherflicking rubber!

I reckon it's the combination of the pedal posiitioning and the management / catalytic converter that makes the throttle response so poor.

Wait, Naas - is it available in Trailstar, or PaceStar? Just phoned Janos and he confirmed only Pacestar, and even though I wanted TS, I have requested the PS. Please advise urgently!

Yeha. I'll give it one thing - it's FLIPPIN hard to kill, apparently. And it's great for hardpack. That's about it.

AWESOME!!! EDIT: Naas, you have mail.

Beautiful. Any idea on price?

Hey Naas, are you bringing in the Magic Mary yet? And the Rock Razor? 2 tyres I am VERY interested in, and I know of a lot of people who have been forced to buy from overseas as a result of the pathetic local stock levels. Also - I reckon the lack of general local support has forced people to look online, and discount any local retailers, which is why you're not seeing the movement you were expecting.

Ja but bro, there's very little stopping them from bringing in smaller amounts of stock in addition to the stuff they're bringing in at the moment. It'd br a brilliant decision. Not like the one the WTB okes took to "stop" importing the Weirwolf, Weir's signature tyre, when the Bronson came out.

The thing is, Roux, that there IS demand. We just have to go overseas (bikediscount.de, on one, ebay etc) to get them, 'cos the local distributors are 29 & 275 befok. If the distributors brought in sixer rubber, in proper sizes and selection, they WOULD sell. I'd LOVE to buy a Magic Mary, a Vigilante, Rubber Queen etc locally, but due to the distributors not willing to bring them in, it forces us overseas. And then they have the temerity to blame US for loss of sales. I'd also love to get the agency for Schwalbe or WTB. I'd bring in the full range, because I KNOW they'll sell. Downhillers, trail riders, general weekend warriors. We all either have sixers, or know someone who has them. And they're not going anywhere. It pisses me off no end.

Yeah. And it's really, really difficult to do this in a car without a proper pedal box orientation. I used to do it in my mini, my dad's subaru(s), my Citi golf and numerous other cars, but my a4? No chance. There's just something about the orientation of the pedals that prevents you from doing it properly. That, or the management system and cat just take so much of the response out of the throttle that by the time it's registered movement on the accelerator pedal, your foot has slipped off the brake. And I have BIG feet...

It's impossible to classify a crossmark as a "tyre" In order for that to happen, it would have to have 3 properties: 1 - Rubber construction 2 - capable of holding air 3 - capable of providing grip It has properties 1 & 2, but unfortunately it lacks property number 3 in any way, shape or form. Caveat - it adopts property 3 when coming into contact with a substance known as "asphalt" or "tarmac" - 2 substances that a mountain biker has no experience of.

In days where you actually had to DRIVE the car. Manual clutch. Manual gear-change. Wide tyres due to necessity. No traction control. And it was also won on the gear-changes. You could be a brilliant driver from a basic driving perspective, and suck at changing gear - and become a middle of the road performer. Really shows how talented the drivers of that era were.

Wyatt is the only oke I know of that builds a good wheel. This through other ppl in the industry.

Yes. Definitely.

Wheel builders. Droo at stoke suspension works in woodstock. Lance at Epic in wynberg. Devon at Action in town. William at Williams Bike Shop, in Somerset West. No one else.

Yep. Normal tapered steerers.

http://www.27bslash6.com/brochure.html

BAHAHAHAHAA!!! Love it! The Milk Carton On Tuesday morning, Holly and I argued about where the milk carton should be kept in the fridge. I often work from home and while I don't need a desk or filing cabinet (as I work from a laptop), I do have one working requirement: Coffee. I drink around twenty cups of coffee per day and I have milk in my coffee. My valid suggestion that the milk should live in the door, where it is readily accessible to the person who uses it most, was countered by Holly's anarchic opinion that "the milk doesn't have a special milk spot in the fridge. Its special spot is wherever I put it." The fact that I drink a lot of coffee was also quickly hijacked. As we own a Keurig, which uses little plastic coffee buckets that work out to around a dollar-fifty per coffee, Holly calculated that my daily consumption of twenty cups amounted to forty-five dollars. She then used an actual calculator and admitted it was closer to thirty dollars but that it was still "a ridiculous waste of money." Ignoring my justification of coffee being a 'tool of my trade', Holly began pounding keys on the calculator and spouting numbers such as "That's two-hundred and ten dollars per week... eight-hundred and forty dollars per month... ten-thousand and eighty dollars per year... We could buy a car with that money." "Yes, to live in," I responded, "because without coffee I wouldn't get any work done and I wouldn't get paid; we should probably buy a station-wagon or perhaps a camper-van. Even then it might be cramped, what with the dog and..." "I work as well," Holly interrupted, "It would only be you living in the car, the dog would stay here with me. You can take the Keurig." "Fine," I replied, "I will live in a car by myself and within a day you will call and say, '''Im bored and want to play Trivial Pursuit. I was going to watch television but the garage door keeps opening when I try to change channels. Come home.' and I will reply, 'No, sorry, I like living in the Waffle House carpark.'" "That won't happen," Holly responded, "I will be way too busy putting the milk wherever the **** I want." Also, while on the subject of Keurigs, when it is out of water, I take the reservoir out, fill it, and replace it. This way there is enough water for the next person and several more coffees. On the rare occasion Holly finds the Keurig empty, she fills a cup with water, takes the lid off the Keurig machine, pours the cup in, and makes a single coffee. When I was at school, I was taught that 'good manners are contagious' but this is clearly bull****.

That. Is. Brilliant.

No, it's more a case of you stating that the weight loss is the only advantage, as if it is a fact, when in actual fact, there are various things to consider when / if going 1x. Your opinion would have been something along the lines of "1x is not for me as I believe / have heard / was told" etc That said - the arguments AGAINST 1x are also varied. Less choice (especially if you go 1x10 without one of the 42 / 40t cassette options with your 1x) Less top end, especially if you're in to marathons and so on. Less potential bail out gears (also, especially if you're not going true 1x11 or 1x10 without the 42/40t cassette) and also more chance of choosing the wrong chainring for your purposes. At the end of the day, you need to determine what works for you, while looking at the available options and gear ranges. If the majority of your riding is spent in one of your rings, then 1x is for you. If you use the entire range of your 2x or 3x crankset, and don't have the cash to splash on an X01 cassette and RD / Shifter combo, or one of the available 40/42t conversion options, then 2x or 3x is for you. If you spin out on the flats, but still battle to climb, then 2x or 3x is for you.