Captain Fastbastard Mayhem

VERY good tools. Them, AEG, Metabo, Makita, De Walt, Festool and a couple of others are the big dogs of the tool world

Can see the emotion in his dad's expression. Looks like a tough kid though! Healing vibes...

I think that's the best looking bike Nicolai have ever put out - no longer looking like the back end of a barn!

YUCK!

WTF dude!? And a switch is less than R 10 at the local leccie.

Not bad for a ballie who "can't jump"!

Yeah. Indeed. Although the steel cutting discs (diamond tipped segmented blades) are a lot hardier, they should always hang. Never rest on the blade. ESPECIALLY if they're those fibre reinforced blades.

True that. My grandfather almost lost a foot 'cos his kicked back on him. He's not that strong anymore and it bucked straight out of his hands, connected his foot, jumped off the boot and dug down behind the toe-cap. Sliced his big toe down to the bone and then luckily got caught in his pants leg. This from a guy who is METICULOUS with his handling of tools. It was just a little 4" grinder, but they spin up so fast, and their motors have IMMENSE amounts of torque, that for the size blade / cutter you're using it's an overkill of note and WILL go wrong if you lose concentration for even a nanosecond.

Sorry I couldn't make it even though I signed up. Family needed me today...

Yeah. I'd LOVE to get hold of my grandfather's Record & Stanley planes, spoke shaves and chisels. They're the PROPER stuff, 40 plus years old and still going strong. Proper steel. I wouldn't touch anything with the Stanley name on it now. Even their levels & set squares are out at times. I'm going to say it, and my flame suit is on - but - I'd buy GRIP tools before I bought Stanley.

Yeah, it's the amperage rating of the battery that you have to have a look at. That and the motor windings & brushes.

Old Ryobi (as in 20 - 25 years ago) is fantastic stuff. Then they started going the way of "lowest possible cost" assembly and motor / tolerance selection, and their quality went down the tubes. I have a Ryobi tablesaw that I WILL NOT USE. It jacks down 1" when you start it (with the height selector "locked" in place) and can't cut for $hit. Even with a brand new blade in there, it doesn't cut true. Same for all their other stuff. If you use it once or twice a year, they're okay. But anything more than that and they'll break down faster than a bulimic teen at a cupcake party. Same as modern STANLEY tools. They used to be King Dong on the handtool circuit. And then profit margins and cost cutting got in the way. Sad, really. Oh - and as for the Ryobi cordless variety - their battery packs are packed with vastly inferior batteries. Over extended use they need to be swapped out. quite often. And then the batteries that they're repacked with invariably last much longer due to the far higher quality. Although there are exceptions, they aren't that common (their little Li-Ion cordless screwdriver is an example)

Just a tip. Never ever buy Ryobi.

There is www.tooltime.co.za for the DIY oke. Not name brand stuff, but imported white label stuff from China / Germany etc. Very reasonable prices. Sometimes you win, sometimes you lose. Then there's http://www.newcopowertools.co.za/ and http://www.skarpa.co.za/ Not much else though. Maybe try The Powertool Man in CT to see if they will send some stuff up for you. VERY well priced, father and son owned retailer based in Pinelands. Just bought a Makita 8.5" sliding mitre saw from them for 2k5. They know their stuff. And will be happy to talk to you over the phone and advise you on what you need. I'm going to use them for all my future powertool purchases. They handle Makita, De Walt, Bosch (and Skil) Maktec and Metabo. PHONE THEM 021 531 4050

HAHA! Yeah I do... Hey bro, it'll be an awesome trip. Just don't go in your cabbie - you'll lose your fillings by the time you get there. His is MORE than sufficient (and comfortable. And fast) Unless you hire an H10 or something...

Don't always trust that the mech did a good job - on my old hardtail, the hub was serviced and CV joint grease was put in in place of wheel bearing grease. Needless to say, a few rides later the hub was toast. I only found out that it was CV joint grease when I took it apart myself to find this black, gritty gloop all over the bearings. At that point, I just bought a new wheelset. The rims were k4k anyway, and the hubs weren't suited to my riding style (heffalump)

Cool, except that this is a steel hardtail....

JB - if the spokes are loose, the wheel will flex. Your post is misleading as it assumes that there will ALWAYS be tension in the spokes. Sometimes this is not the case, and this needs to be checked out. OP - also have a look at the rear hub's bearings. Depending on what they are, they could be worn to the point that they are causing lateral motion in the wheel itself, through no fault of the spokes, meaning the wheel isn't so much flexing as shifting position around busted bearings. Also look at the axle's cone, to check if that's tight enough (if your hub has cup & cone bearings) - if it's loose, it'll have the same effect as busted bearings, in that the wheel will shift laterally and give the impression of flex. Another one to look out for is the QR - is it tight enough? A loose QR could give the impression of flex, and will cause problems when stuff gets "real" Lastly - do not tighten the cones too much, as it could end up in a few crushed ball bearings, which would NOT be good for your riding karma.

read his post: Alcohol Content. It also frees up your nasal passages, allowing you to breathe deeper and therefore push harder.

Thing is it's probably just ONE person doing it. A disgruntled dog walker or some such, irritated that MTBers and hikers are on THEIR mountain when a dog isn't allowed anywhere near the other areas that MTBers and Hikers are. Catch the criminal, sentence him to 100 hours of community service or some such, and make an example out of him / her/.

YT - mirroring Crow's reasoning. The PIKE beats the 34 hands down any day of the week ito adjustability & reliability, especially with Fox's C(rap) T(rademarked) D(amping) system that has had more than just one report of un-warranted, uncontrollable fork dive just when you need it. The Pike, on the other hand, is a RS Gem.

Kandui is Rob Vogel of Table Mountain Bikers. Pain or Shine is Deon de Villiers of Tokai MTB and AMARider. Both have very good relationships with sanparks.

It's been happening more and more often lately. Pm Kandui and Pain or Shine with any details you can remember as well as pics of the sites (if you can) Generally dog walkers who have a long history of not having access to certain areas like Tokai etc and trying to "claim" certain areas for themselves.

Nothing... They'll pay out.

Burrrrrrrrrrrrrn!