linnega

This software worked in the old days (when I had a Polar Coach watch) converting SonicLink files to .hrm files that are used in the PPP software: http://sysm.tripod.com/download.html Still a bit of a ball-ache as you then need to convert each file and then manual attach it to a workout in the PPP software.

Grapkas - Many of the pros are using compacts especially on mountain stages. And Bikemax is right about the power output. If the climbs are short (under 5k) then it is reasonable to use gearing that prevents you from riding at an optimal cadence, as the damage is less severe than it would be on a 25km mountain pass. But there is no compelling reason to subject yourself to unnecessary suffering. Gumpole is right about the straighter chainlines. It is easy to ride 50-21 (on a 11-23 cassette) without any chain rub. I often use the 50-23 when I have the 12-25 cassette on the back. Having the extra gear for climbing also allows you to ride a number of different gears to keep your cadence constant. The reason people haven't been riding compact is mostly because Shimano haven't been making them. It is only in the last 15 years or so that the pro's have started to be more active in selecting their equipment and more eager to try new technologies. That has seen more innovative component companies always looking for new fads. They are not all effective, but compacts I feel are a very positive fad.

Splat has it spot on. 50-11 is as near as dammit to 53-12 as you would care to be, and 34-23 is about 39-26. So you lose nothing but have a wider spread of gear options. It is true about compacts dropping the chain more often as the jump from 50-34 is much bigger than 53-39. Despite that I don't see myself ever riding a 53-39 again.

Not true that guys riding L or XL frames will necessarily be over 100kgs. I ride a L Giant and weigh in under 80kg. About the wheels, at a hundred kg's no manufacturer will officially recommend their factory wheels. The best solution is as suggested - a set of 3 cross 36/32 spoke wheels. I would suggest 105/Ultegra/Chorus hubs (depending on preference) and either Open Pro/CXP33's. The main difference between OP's and CXP33's is the profile of the wheel. Strength is similar, but the aerodynamics slightly favours the CXP33's and weight slightly favours the OP's. I use my Record/OP wheels for commuting and have no qualms about riding off pavements, over potholes, speedbumps etc. I have had them 4 years now and they have never needed truing.

The middle of the picture is where the waves are breaking.

Just checking Google Earth. Got a strange altitude for the place in the pic below: uploads/linnega/images/2006-07-28_193226_GE.jpg

Grease all the corrodable bits. Big lumpy globs of grease are good as it doesn't matter if dust is attracted. Hang the bike in a garage for the storage period. When you want to use it again, just rinse with a hosepipe. Wipe of the water and excess grease. Lubricate like normal and hit the road.

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Easiest is just don't clean your bike and then chips aren't very noticeable. smileys/smiley2.gif Or you could do what Homer says...

Asthavent works fine for me. It contains Salbutamol which is on the banned substances list. If you are licensed and race at national champs or place in the big races then get a Therapeutic Use Exemption from Cycling SA.

Weather looks similar to the weather I have had the last two times on the route. Shiver through the first 20km with just arm-warmers and maybe long finger gloves if you are averse to cool temps (was 1C when I rode with short finger gloves). Tactics are simple - do no work until Hilltops - none, not even one pull. Hilltops is tricky - steep at first then levels to a comfortable gradient +-7% for little while then another steep section. The ride into and out of Nelspruit is up and down constantly. Again do no work if you can help it. Obviously do something if you are in a small group. Boulders is longish but not very steep. The main problem is the heat (usually). Do not descend Boulders like a demon, unless you want to be a dead demon. Even renowned mountainbiker (he did the Epic you know) Owen Hannie has fallen here - more than once if I recall. The rest of the ride is very tough. Constant rolling hills. Make sure you drink and eat constantly from the bottom of Boulders. The groups will probably be quite small. Don't try and bridge gaps between groups, as there is very little opportunity to rest between climbs. Do your fair share of work - ie in a group of 4 do 25%. If one person isn't working, still do 25%.

They make us wear them at races you know. Just remember the important bits - lightweight, good vents, easy fit.

You can't really go too wrong with the offerings from Bell (both their Giro brand and the Bell brand). Giro is good because you get great deals on the Pneumo. They have taken to releasing a new "top of the range" offering every year (as have their sister company). Difference between the Pneumo and the Atmos is a bit of carbon and 20g - difference between the Atmos and the 2006 Ionos is another 20g and more carbon. Go into your local bike shop and try both the Bell and Giro offerings to check which fits your head better. For Bell look at the Ghisallo and the Sweep, for Giro look at the Pneumo and the Atmos. All are lightweight and well vented.

Seems to be: Totalcycling - +- 542 Euros www.ribblecycles.co.uk - +-480 Euros

530 Euros at rullobike.com

Oh yes, and I play a round of golf every now and then. Who doesn't?

At the moment I "only" ride either my road bike or MTB. Used to play hockey, rugby, football, tennis (pretty seriously), cricket, triathlons, running, duathlons, squash, cross country running, high jump, plus the odd game of stingers on my parent's tennis court after a few ales. Also played a decent game of pool - used play for beer money at varsity (got drunk a lot).

...and if the chicks don't care/notice then at least your mates will be impressed!

If they sent you what you didn't order, just phone or email and tell them to send you the right stuff. They will probably let you keep the wrong items - which I would be happy to take off your hands if you want to get rid of them.

The solution is rolling your shirt up as stated. Also don't pack the night before. If your stuff does crease this is easily smoothed out if it has only been developing for an hour or so. Leave work shoes and a couple pairs of trousers at work (you can wear the same trousers during a week). The all you have to carry is shirt socks and underwear. Get one of those lighweight hiking towels from Outdoor Warehouse or similar. I drive in Mondays and drive home on Fridays, and just leave my trousers and shoes in the car. Good solution if your office parking is safe and you want to be able to drive around at lunchtime. You'll find if you ride when the traffic is very heavy that it is easier to get around particularly near the Rondebosch/Kenilworth area. Heavy traffic means motorists are trapped and can't do something stupid. Also riding with a bag on your back means you feel 5-10kg lighter (because you are) when you ride on the weekends.

Marius - B and C are you limit stops. The one stops the chain from jumping into the spokes, the other from jumping of the smallest cog onto your frame. Adjusting the settings is done by either tightening the cables, or by turning the adjustment barrel. This effectively lengthens/shortens the cable housing (the plastic and metal around the cable). Use the Sheldon Brown method - it is pretty straightforward. Don't worry if you don't get it right at first, it takes a little practice and patience.

Safe for the tyre to go to 160psi, but like Bikemax says a waste of time. Not sure that the rims would hold (I think they have a 150psi max rating, although Campag is know for underrating the strength of their rims). Anyway the main benefit of the Fortezza's is they have a very flexible side wall so they feel comfortable without but are still fast. Pump them to 160psi and the sidewall of any tyre will be rock hard. I would recommend pumping a little more (10psi) than you usually use on clinchers so that they don't feel too soft when you first ride them.

Same here - Arione on the road bike and Gobi on the MTB. Both as comfortable and far better than anything else I have ever ridden.

If you have a 720i or 725 it will work fine.