droo

It's probably the Disco. If you arrived in a Range Rover the neighbourhood watch might escort you from the premises. Woodstock Main Rd can be judgey.

I see it as motivation for your training. If your wife can't catch you, you're safe...

Sheesh, one from the archives... have you only just got out of the dogbox?

Leave the rock at the bottom of the hill and go for a ride rather.

Where does one find these charts? Looked on WeatherSA and they've only got a few PDFs from the previous day.

I'll check Monday and let you know.

You may be able to find koolstop or swissstop inserts for cartridge pads. If you can, those are the ones to go for. If not, Jagwire do a wet weather compound. Buy a few sets cos they don't last long, but they work.

If you want the indexing and all 3 settings you're in for a new compression assembly, but if you're ok with on/off you can just buy the adjusters. Compression assembly will need to be done as part of a service cos the damper needs to be stripped to fit it.

32 comes standard on all new cranks from the local supplier, so there will be many of them getting ditched brand new for other sizes. With Eagle going to 52T a year or so back I'd guess 34 mostly.

Same same. And yes, Pedro's stuff is great. I have the last of the old stock in a box somewhere, I must actually catalogue and flog it.

Pedros tyre levers. Thank me later. Also, possibly technique. Make sure the bead sits in the rim bed all the way round before you massage the last bit on.

This is the guy your stanchions are scared of...

2 bumps in and that stuff would be bunched up around the crown like a foreskin. Looks shiny in the photos though. (On a serious note, the reason stanchion tubes are anodised aluminium is because aluminium oxide is one of the hardest substances known to man. Vinyl is not.)

The Mongoose will be orders of magnitude better than the Raleigh, which is more a bicycle shaped object than an actual bicycle. If it's used you may need to spend a bit of cash getting it fixed up, but it'll last far longer and be a much better ride.

Ok, I'd guess jam nut not tight enough then. They do tend to tighten as you pedal rather than loosen, for obvious reasons... Next time skip the complete disassembly part. Pull the axle assembly out, wipe all the grease off, set the bearing, half fill the pedal body with grease and reassemble. Old grease will be forced out of the pedal past the axle seal and you're good to go once you've cleaned it up and reseated the seal. It's a 10 minute job.

Did you completely disassemble the bearings, or just pull out, set preload, fill body with grease and purge as you tightened the collar back in? Did you tighten the preload jam nut enough? If you completely stripped it, then some of the balls may have come adrift. Those things are a pig to reassemble properly.

If it went back to Omnico they would most likely have replaced the brake, they're pretty good with warranty stuff. If no stock they would have said so and probably given you options. Not sure if that screw should have an o ring under it or if it just seals on the caliper, but replacing the o ring is about a 5 minute job. If no o ring then the caliper is faulty and will need replacing.

Yeah, we were offered Tranny when A Line shut up shop. I think the polite word for their dealer agreement is onerous. Banshee, on the other hand, are a pleasure to deal with and will bend over backwards to grow market share in far corners of the world.

Manufactured in Salt River, and they'll probably be able to repair if you send it to them. Otherwise 50% off a new jersey is better than a poke in the eye.

Nope. Local guys got the moer in with waiting and threw in the towel. I'm sure they're glad they did, with all the big brand discounting going on they'd have been sitting on a mountain of stock that they'd battle to move. Sad, they're great bikes and Tranny SA were easy to deal with.

As others have said, that's the first sign of a scam, and most likely not his ID. Especially if he was the one to suggest it. Bikehub Pay FTW. Have used it a few times now for transactions I haven't been able to close in person.

Meh. I guess the choice will come down to resale value or n+1 then... Either replace damper and flog the old one when it's repaired, or replace fork. Then you can either flog the old fork or keep it and start looking for a new frame to put it on when it's fixed...

All of them except the Lezyne are made in the same factory, so pick whichever one matches your tool board's colour scheme. The RS 600psi one will be easier to get to 350psi because it has a thinner barrel, but otherwise they're all pretty much the same thing. The Fox and RS digital ones go to 350 as does the Fox analogue one. The Ryder ones have a bit of an awkward chuck. IIRC the RavX one does 400psi and has a 2 stage manual chuck with a pin that releases the valve manually, so it'll be easier to remove once inflated since you can close the valve and release pressure from the hose before screwing it off, which will save wear on the chuck and valve stem. If you can find one of these it'll be first prize. Gauge accuracy isn't really an issue as long is it gives consistent readings - it only becomes a problem if you're swapping between pumps.

Yeah, I could fit that seal for you for not much more than a standard rebuild. Shipping would probably kill it for you though. How long till you're back for a visit?

For marathon you'll get away with most things as long as they're 29" if you're not too worried about the descents. XC and light trail use the one that I'd probably go for is the 2017+ Scott Spark 120. But be prepared to spend on getting whatever you buy fixed up. Most "bargain" bikes in this segment have been ridden 6 times round the world with very little servicing - a FS that's been treated like a road bike and pressure washed at least once a week is going to need a lot of stuff replaced.