droo

Nobody needs your sensible input. Especially not on a Friday. Pitchforks are what we need here.

That's the way most of them will get sold. The OE market is orders of magnitude bigger than aftermarket.

With all the bleating about pricing and new standards, there's one thing I'm not understanding. If you're looking to spend R 30k on a top tier electronic derailleur, you're probably already riding something that's up to date enough to have a UDH. If you're wanting to put an XX1 AXS RD onto a 10 year old MTB frame you may be approaching the "problem" from the wrong angle - you'll get far better bang for your buck elsewhere on the bike. Suspension, wheels, or a frame with more up-to-date geo will make a far bigger difference than the latest and greatest rear mech, no matter what the salesman at the local bike supermarket will tell you. If you want a new drivetrain on your old frame, buy something else. Don't hate on new stuff just cos it won't work for you - let's face it, you were never going to buy it anyway. And the guys who made it know that. /rant

That FS Zaskar frame weighs about 9.5kg, so maybe that's what he meant?

That sounds more like a freehub seal or bearing dragging than an issue with the drivetrain, unless it's the extra inertia from the 52T cassette over what I assume was a 36T before?

Not even remotely accurate. Most mid-tier and higher forks need a new air spring to change travel because of the way the positive and negative springs equalise.

Check the SRAM spare parts catalogue for your exact model of fork as per the Trailhead description. It'll tell you what you can and can't fit, and I'll put a pint on the fact that the 120 spring won't be on that list, It exists, but that doesn't mean it's compatible. Alternative solution - buy the 120 spring, fit it, and see what happens. Maybe it'll work, maybe it won't fit, maybe you'll write your fork off. No need to import, you can get them locally.

The 130 doesn't have base maps, as capediver says - but it still gives you a breadcrumb trail which will be fine if you're not going too fast or on technical terrain, since you have to keep your eye on it quite closely. For something with maps installed and turn-by-turn nav, you'll need a 520 or higher.

I'd probably go with a DT or a Hope for a better chance of a yes...

This. Chat to Lloyd. Nothing on their system, but if it exists he'll know where to find it.

Same for most RDs really. Remove the stop, release spring tension, remove fixing bolt, remove cage. Installation is the same in reverse.

Quintana Roo are around as well, I know Sportopia in Salt River stocks their framesets.

If your foam rings are dirty your seals are finished. Replace the lot. Cleaning them with brake cleaner will give you the warm and fuzzies while wearing your fork out.

You don't say where you are, but we can get all the things if you're in CT, and if you're not we can ship to you. None of these things are hard to find if you know where to look. PM me an email address and we can chat there.

When in doubt, Sheldon has the answer: https://sheldonbrown.com/gloss_n-o.html#opc

Ah. I'd forgotten about these. Start looking for 1/2" threaded pedals then.

If there were no threads, how would the BB stay in? And how would you adjust a cup and cone system? Take the thing out, you'll find the threads.

BMX pedals will probably fit. Standard pedal threads are 9/16", but BMX threads are 1/2". Otherwise any cranks should fit - if the BB is square taper just get a set of cheap and cheerful square taper cranks and off you go. You say the BB has no threads, so I'm guessing it's a 1 piece - if this is the case you'll need to bin (or donate) the cranks and BB and replace the whole lot. The 68mm BB shell should be a 1.37" BSA thread which will fit any English threaded BB, so you'll be able to fit whatever cranks you like - as long as the chainline is correct.

I'd have to see the rim, but it may be possible if it uses internal nipples - they should allow for a greater range of entry angles. Though it may be a pig to access the nipple. Only way to find out is to lace up and see. OP - Powertap hub and deep section rims are always tricky, The angle the spoke enters the rim is often too severe because of the size of the hub flanges.

For an ebike, definitely steel.

Then I'd guess they probably snapped. Alu bolts or steel?

Unless you've been up in the last 2 years there's some new spice you haven't seen...

I thought I did, but sadly not. Neither does the supplier.

Or Schwable tyres...

It'll never be perfect, but it'll work. And if it doesn't, Wolftooth Goatlink will sort you out for less than the price of a new RD.