brussel

almost every time I have tried sintered they land up squealing... they do last longer and work better in the wet...the noise is so bad you 'll ride slowly the whole way so that you don't have to use the brakes at all

Worcester Wheelers what is the pricing on the saguaro in 29er tnt?

I broke a gobi too, also gave me numb-nuts

Knobby The wear is from the bush, but the seals tend to run dry compared to oem stuff, they tend to put small scratches into the stantions which means ingress of dirt and then the bush eats the hell out of the stantions.

your wear is too deep. but even if it was not normal anodizing would not last long enough to have any really substantial increase in wear as it is not as hard as the hard anodizing found on forks. Also normal anodizing has a much rougher finish which will both increase stiction and wear on the seals.

Hi RickyBobby the issue is your enduro seals. The enduro seals are much better at keeping the crap out, but they are made of a MUCH harder plastic rather than the original rubber seals. I had them on a fox and had stiction and wear problems like that. you need to replace the upper assembly and the seals and it's gonna cost a bit I've seen some schweet deals on fox forks on the hub.

hmm OK if you check out the litespeed site there is no dent like that on the frame, nor on the one linked above. something is odd there...I agree with Mintsauce...give us some better pics from some different angles

Jacques where are you based?

it is a problem and it will get worse you need to replace the bushes and the crown assemply....gonna cost a few bucks

probably waaaaaaay overdue....cant remember the figures but it is after a couple of dozen hours of riding. Learn to do it yourself, there are threads on the hub about it. You'll save a LOT of money and get loads of satisfaction!

BB30 will not go into a normal frame at all as far as I know...you can however fit a normal hollowtech crank (like XT) into BB30 with a set of machined aluminium spacers (check on Enduroforkseals.com)...or you get a press fit case that presses into the BB30 shell and takes a standard BB

brighter lights interesting comment on the enduro wipers. I have had them and have exactly the same issue 2 rides max and then stiction becomes a big issue...I did manage to retro fit with a foam ring and the enduro seals... slightly better: three rides and then stiction. I went back to OEM seals too. they let through a bit more gunk, but are much smoother. To the original poster...learn to do it yourself, it's not hard, the oil is readily available (I use belray fork oil of the correct viscosity from the local motorbike shop) it takes me 20 minutes max to do a seal service as per brighter lights...my fork is buttery smooth too!

they are riding attakwas on Saturday so it could well be them...

I'm an engineer and I'd argue that it has far more to do with the design of said object rather than material. I have a cheap alu post...it is rigid as all hell. I also have a KCNC one that is much softer. Not because of the material but the wall thickness is thinner and so it flexes much more. Nothing to do with material but rather the structural design of a seatpost. I'd argue that with carbon frames the ability to tune parts of the bike to flex is what gives carbon it's softer ride rather than the material itself. I ride an alu Bulls 29er and I have ridden the carbon one too...it is softer and I could feel that from the first bump I hit. But again I'd argue its a feature of the ability to put material where you want the frame stiff and to remove it where you want it compliant. Not the material itself.

I have a 29er with XT cranks I recently got a double set of rings that use the inner and middle blades only from Chain Reaction. They are blackspire and I use a 38/26 combination with an 11-34 at the back

CWC, you guys rock! What can you do on a 9 speed chain: either Shimano or SRAM?

it is a 2x9 setup 38/26 up front no idea what it weighs...a bit more than the niner...but that may have been why it broke too little material

Bulls bike is cheaper - about R5500 carbon is coming soon - that costs R20 000 frame only I rode it two weeks back week...very very nice!

hehe forgot about the logo...sorted

In the two laps I did around the block exactly the same as the niner seriously though: the angles are identical so from that respect the same. I do think it is going to be more rigid as tubing is larger and hence stiffer. The detailing on the frame is really neat and hopefully I will break her in the afternoon.

I built mine last night... not so much bye bye specialized mine was bye bye niner. Broke my air nine after four months...5 weeks later and still no frame.

hell the two of them could not even scare off a dassie I did offer to come along but was told I ride too fast. how far did you guys go in the end mtbmom? We went to jonkers yesterday Greg had to pick something up...had a good ride, was hot as hell on the climb up the saddle.

The new Trek GF frames are different to the old ones. Not sure how good the new ones are but the old ones are terrible. I know someone who has been through two of hard tail version.. .they ride nicely but get very soft fast.

I have the xm version on my roadbike and the standard road one on my mtb (gotta keep colour coded you know!) for me it is the shiz. I have ridden flat saddles and they dont work for me. Gobi also not. but you must ride the saddle first - each butt is unique and you have to try before you find something that fits you

iRob FYI there are two kinds of benzine benzine - safe benzene - dangerous