MaxUmis

Is it nearing dinner time B.A???

Went out in my new kit over the weekend. I can also say that the sizing is half a size smaller that SA brands. My size large Indola shorts fit perfect, the new kit bib sits ever so slightly tighter. I have no issue with the shammy; it might be slightly thinner than the Indola, but a little firmer I think. Either way, the 4 hour ride on Saturday wasn't any more uncomfortable than usual. As for the shirt; it feels a little shorter than my other size large jersey and the sleeves sit a little bit higher on the arms. So I wonder if a xl would have been a better fit... But it's okay. Zipper isn't great. It's plastic, but it's okay too. It also doesn't have the little zip compartment in one of the back pockets where I normally put my moolas. I may have been better off thinking a little further than my nose about the white HTC kit, since it WILL go see-through if wet. So I'll just have to be sure it won't rain while out cycling. The fabric doesn't strike me as "top quality", but so far it's breathes alright. The printing is sharp, vivid and clear. For now... The only major complaint I have about the kit is the fit. Maybe 1 size up will sit better, but lets just say I'm glad the bib is black in the middle All in all I would expect to pay R700 for a similar quality kit locally. So I'm happy with adding and extra kit to the shelf for only $50. Just disappointed that by some miracle it wasn't top quality stuff.

Just stopped by FPC. They carry Specialized everything. The lightest Specialized is the Turbo Road at an estimated 68g and R65 a pop.

I'm going with 1.65rkm = 1mtbkm But there are to many variables to really have a solid number... I'd say terrain is the biggest factor between the two.

Mmmmmm, normal tube... Continental Race 28 -> 105g Vredenstein Race -> 109g Michelin AirStop Butyl -> 102g Kenda Superlight -> 82g Vittoria Ultralite 19/23 -> 86g All according to Weight Weenies

MoorwoodMad's team would never have caught any of the other teams if they played that song on one of these! The other okes would have fled in horror! What price will they be going for Brad?

Ja ja, but that 200g isn't the same as a 100g on the outer diameter of the wheel. Plus it's not the chocolate that's the problem... mmmmm beer...

Indoor trainers are the most boring things ever to have been seen by the face of the earth, BUT they make doing "interval training" very accessible.

Interesting... I have a 1 year old Maxxis Ultralight (also from CRC) that's been on 2 different wheelsets and has seen the inside of 3 different tyres. It probably has the best part of 2500km on it. To be fair, the "Ultralight" is the 67g tube and not the 52g Flyweight (thanks for the weights Mampara). The plan is to run the ultra light tubes in races and use my "kannie dood", stupid heavy, sealant filled Specialized tubes for training.

I found this on good old Wiki and thought it might explain my previous rambling a little better. Here's the link

I heard that latex reduces rolling resistance. Why, I have no idea. They are very $$$ though.

Well, if you think about what causes the bulk of punctures on roads then I would have to say not really. If a piece of glass sneaks through your tyre, chances are you're going to puncture. The real advantage comes with saving rotational weight on the bike. So basically, you can shave 100g of the weight of your wheelset for relatively little money. Problem is, you don't want to puncture your R100 tube doing a training ride... (or yank the valve out of the tube...)

Perhaps it's because you ride harder during races than when you train. Thus exceeding your lactate threshold, resulting in excess lactic acid in your leg muscles, resulting in PAIN. You can train close to or at your Lactate Threshold to increase/lift your HR where you start to produce excess amounts of lactic acid... 2cents.

The 65g Maxxis tubes are the "Ultralight" ones I think. That's a good buy at R50ea!

Dude, that music is terrible!!!

Hi guys, Does anyone know where to find Ultra light road tubes? Something less than 60 grams and which is the best and why? 2 examples are Maxxis Flyweight(55g) and Continental Race Supersonics(50g).

Just a quick 2 cents. Apparently your body only goes into "fat burning" mode after 45mins of aerobic exercise. So, you'll burn more fat doing "easy" (HR @ 65% - 70%) for 60mins than doing strenuous exercise for 20 mins. Much better for your heart and joints AND you don't sweat as much.

Shimano road: Sora - Tiagra - 105 - Ultegra - Dura ace Shimano MTB: Acera - Alivio - Deore - SLX - XT - XTR SRAM MTB: X3 - X4 - X5 - X7 - X9 - X0 - XX Not really familiar with the SRAM road stuff, but if you run SRAM RED okes will look at you like you have money and a drop-dead sexy GF and a Ferrari...

Some guys do seem a little ambitious with their prices on second hand goods. Second hand duel suspension bikes seem to be one of the areas where prices stay high. But I suppose if they get it sold at a high price, then that's just the way the market is...

Chicken, use the XPG R5. They have the highest lumens per watt rating and they run cooler than most other LEDs.(yes there are reports of brighter Cree's, but they're impossible to source.) Look at this page at cutter. You'll find basically everything you might want from here. If parts you order are in stock, your order should be here within a week. Have a look at the Lux-RC page. This guy is my hero and one day I'll design something as good as his products. Awesome awesome stuff. Also, when selecting a LED you must consider the color of light the LED will produce. While we might automatically think that cool blue/white (which is also the brightest color lumen wise) will be nice, I have found that people doing night rides actually prefer a warmer white. Warmer white seems to highlight textures and rock better. Cool white tends to "wash out" terrain, leaving you uncertain of what's coming up. If you are gonna look at the MC-E, then you have to look at the SSC P7 too. PS, if you think selecting the right LED is a process just wait till you get to selecting optics.

Sometimes you need to take the rotor off to service the hub bearings... (Don't know if this is the case with 6 bolt) Easy on - easy off is a nice plus here... just note it's not idiot proof. You can miss-align the lockring if your not careful and then manage to strip out the thread of the hub...

What time would one need to leave Centurion to make the start?.?.

Confusion has set in now... I got my new XT rims yesterday and was tempted to run them tubeless on the night ride. Opted not to in the end BUT I read this thread My linkhttps://community.bikehub.co.za/topic/56755-fold-up-or-wirebead-for-tubeless/ Quoting Shamus "Pressure - the minimum infation pressure as indicated by the manufacturer. a minimum (and maximum) pressure is usually indicated on the sidewall of the tyre. For safety reasons, this should be maintained. Tyres that roll off rims either do not conform to ETRTO or are under inflated" Now, here's where my confusion sets in... The numbering on my Monorail says 35 - 65 PSI. I take it that 35 PSI is the minimum... AKA 2.4BAR... So the minimum inflation on the Monorail is harder than the maximum recommended inflation for running tubeless... uhm...?

I run that setup when it's wet and muddy out. The knobs on the Albert are so big that they stick through the caking!

That caught my attention. I've always thought that I have good lungs; I have no problem with holding my breath for over 60 seconds and I can swim the length of the Planet Fitness pool on one breath quite easy. I can even make the turn and start a second length. Anyway, about 3 weeks ago I started to feel like I couldn't breath when pushing a bit on the bike. I thought it's because I'm pushing too hard, BUT it seems now that it actually happens when I start to go hard with my HR under 150. If I slowly get the HR up past 160 and then go flat out I max out at about 184 with breathing being quick, but not labored. But that "can't breath" feeling IS labored and SLOW and is not cool at all. Any insights?