David Marshall

I find the following easiest. 1) Release the cable before you set the lo limit screw. Set the low limit with the chain on largest sprocket at the back and smallest in the front. The chain must just clear the inside of the FD cage. 2) Connect the cable without any slack but not tight enough to move the FD off the lower limit setting. 3) Change to the smallest sprocket at the back and by pulling on the FD cable with your hand (between the guides on the downtube) change to the largest chain ring on the crank. Adjust the Hi set screw so that the chain just clears the derailleur cage while on the large ring (keep the cable tight while setting). 4) Release the cable and the chain will again move to the small chain ring. If you have three rings on the crank, use the shifter to move the chain to the mid ring. 5) Now shift through the full range of the rear sprockets and see that the chain does not contact the cage. If it does adjust the cable tension with the adjuster until it just clears. Once this is done the other rings normally don't need further adjustment. 6) If your crank only has two rings, I set the screws as above and then adjust the tension to clear the FD while on the large ring. Then check the small one. Just be careful of not making the cable too tight otherwise it will prevent the FD reaching the low limit setting. Hope this helps.

Yes

Take water enough for 400ml+ per hour and a bite to eat. Oh! and if your mates say it will be a short ride, remember your passport!

I think it is too much hassel to change the crank and reset the derailleur each time you want to ride on the road. Either as suggested try the 48/36/24 mtb crank as a permanent fix or add a cheap second hand hybrid to your stable. You can pick one up for the cost of a crank. Also remember that the cost of chain rings, especially on the cheaper cranks, almost equates to the cost of a new crank.

I have a Excel spread sheet which is handy for comparing gear ratios. PM me your email address if you want it.

Did the 111 km. Still bleeding.....

I haven't come across any chain that has just broken under load 'though I'm sure it can happen. Usually there is some underlying cause. It could be a poor pin connection. When the chain is joined with a pin the chain effectivly becomes uni directional as the direction of the pull should be such that the the outer plates on the link pull the connecting pin towards the chainwheel. If put on in reverse the and the roller pulls the pin towards the chainring the outer plates have more chance of splaying under force and the pin popping out. If you have to rejoin the chain at some later stage you should never replace the original pin but brake the chain somewhere else for the new pin. Be sure that the chain direction is correct for any existing joining pins if you decide to use a speed link later. Some chains have pins that can be reused if you need to remove the chain for servicing. This is often done at service. The effectiveness of this depends on how the chain was made in the first place but I wouldn't do it. It then becomes impossible to see where joins have been made. With the simplicity and reliability of speed links it is just not worth it. It is easy to identify which is an added link pin by the marks on the pins from the manufacturing process or the chain tool used. If you know how many, if any, link pins are in your chain it makes the analysis of such damage easier. For me, speed links all the way. Makes for quicker and more accurate gear setting and cleaning/service.

Re the chain breaking - just be sure to eliminate chain suck on the middle chain ring as the cause. I always use speed links to connect my chains. Most 10 speed are reusable (YBN or KMC) but the Sram 10 speed does not have the indents on the side plates for the connecting pin to seat into and they do not recommended reusing them. If you use the Shimano pin to connect be sure to follow the instructions that come with the chain viz the direction. Check for any previously connected links and make sure that you keep the chain direction the same. A Shimano chain with a pin connection becomes uni directional.

Should be a simple matter to resolve. They shouldn't work loose if they were set up right in the first place. Unless the cones or cups are damaged I wouldn't replace. Just get the bearings serviced.

Firstly, Knight, there are options but a new crank is probably the best and cheapest if the thread is stripped. Just remember the left hand pedal - from the riders position - has a LEFT HAND THREAD! RobinD, If the pedal alone is falling off (not the pedal and crank arm) make sure the thread is not stripped and then tighten the pedal to the correct torque of 35 to 40 nm. This is way tighter than you can ever get with with a multi tool. Probably as tight as you can get with a 250 mm handel pedal spanner. Again remember left has LH thread and the right is RH. Similarly if the whole arm is comming off retighten the bolts holding the arm to the square taper to 35nm. (Both have normal RH threads). Yes, you will need to get a new bottom bracket for a hollow crank.

[extract]4) Besides water sanding paper there is quite little you can do besides replacing parts to actually remove scratches from metal.[/extract] There was a thread awhile ago were guys were touching up STI levers etc with a clear spray. Can't remember the brand but I have seen similar products at art shops and motor spares.

In my opinion the days of "conventional" bike servicing are over. How do you service a bike with sealed wheel bearings, sealed headset bearings and sealed BB bearings? Smear a thin line of luminous grease on the threads and charge the same as if they were all servicable ball bearings? I check the bike over with the owner, LISTEN to what he needs done, fix the issues and charge accordingly. Bike valet service takes time and I charge for time.

As previous posts have mentioned go for a bike setup. Even a visual inexpensive one will help greatly. Sounds like your frame is too big for you. Get your sit bones measured at the same time so that you can look out for the right sized saddle. If you are close to Fourways you can bring it to my place for some free advice. PM for details.

I'm a mechanic. I service/repair bikes. I thoroughly clean everything I work on - components/cables/bearings etc. Bike wash (if necessary) is charged for as an extra. I will not repair electronics, apart from checking the installation. Big difference is that I make this clear upfront when you bring the bike in.

My 2C. Always allow for a spacer or two, say 5mm, above the stem. Not only for resale but if you ever change the headset you can fit one with a different stack height. May sound iffy but often it is cheaper to replace a headset than the bearings. Also the clamp area on the stem can vary from one to another so rather be safe than sorry.

Still not sure what exactly the problem is. Is the stem moving around the steerer or the bar rotating in the stem? Either way what stem type are you using? Is the bar clamped on with 1, 2 or 4 bolts? (Makes a BIG difference to the torque settings). A picture is worth a 1000 posts.

Post a pic so we can see the handlebar/stem/steerer set up.

It's a real pain. Last year I took out a full race licence but had to race open seeded for the first 5 months of the year because of the delay in updating. Needed just ONE result from the previous year to get a seeding.

My 2C. Whatever route you go make sure that you get the right size frame to fit your body. To me this is more important than the bike brand. Check out the sizing charts available on the web as a guide. In the price range you mention I would go second hand. A new road bike would be very entry level and would depreciate significantly the minute you left the shop. Second hand you could pick up a bike with better components and wheels (the parts that maintain their value over time) and you are unlikely to need to upgrade soon. Having said that you can get entry level bikes 2nd hand for between R2-R3000. This is an option as the outlay is not too big if you make an error you can move the bike on without too much of a loss. Good luck!

I have a sleeve that converts a 1 1/8" stem to a 1" (I think!). Also have a 120mm stem for standard (not oversized) bars. You are welcome to try it. I'm in Fourways area.

In my opinion not worth it. You will have to change the shifter as well and it does not make economic sense on an older bike. As the previous posts have said, rather change the cluster. You may need a longer chain, depending on what you have at the moment. I'm guessing it will be an eight speed 23/11. If you can get a 25 or 26/11 or 12 you should be fine for 94.7. I ride 25/11 and don't think I used the 25 on any hill during the race.

I was in the same boat a few years ago. Had to close my business down due to unforseen circumstances and have not worked full time since. Don't even remember the way to the Doc's rooms. Happy as the proverbial pig. (Wife getting a bit cheesed off though!) As others have said - stress plays a big part.

My apologies! I did not follow the thread - looked only for messages. Will send you my contact details now.

Me again - I very much doubt headset wear is the cause, unless it is loose. The fact that you have only had three wobbles in 7000 km makes me think it is more likely to be rider related. You say it happens on Dainfern hill. Are you descending early in the morning? Could you be tensing with the cold? Has it happened on the way home when you have warmed up? I put my aluminium frame into a wobble at the start of last years D2D, in the neutral section on the N14. Shivering. Another guy in VC had the same problem further along the same section. I also did it during the Macsteel, just after the start when you go under the highway - dark glasses, no lights - cold rider tenses - bike wobbles. I used to be so bad down Dainfern that even today I sit at the back of the bunch in winter- just in case. NB braking worsens the wobble. The fact is that changing anything that inhibits the wave will solve the problem leads to all the solutions - changing stem, wheels, fork etc. As I said before, unless there is an obvious problem you are unlikely to find what the real cause is.

This topic has been commented on here on the hub - I think under "shimmy" or "high speed shimmy". It is caused buy a wave like resonance developing in the bike similar to a wheel wobble in a car with an unbalanced wheel. Can have a host of causes - from rider tension to wheels to fork alignment and everything in between. Once you have eliminated any obvious damage as a cause you are reduced to resting a leg on the top tube or gripping the tube with your knees. My solution was to change my frame. I could control my bike but could not get up the confidence to really let loose on the descents. I suspect that my build (long legs, short trunk) was not compatible with the very compact frame I had. The distance from BB to top tube was short relative to the top tube to saddle measurement. My new frame is less compact and I have had no hassles.