David Marshall

I would be more concerned with the squeal. Sort that first.

I've only had good service from Solomon's. Having a (big) shop means overheads that web shops don't have so don't expect the same prices. They do carry a massive stock level and will always hassel the suppliers to get what they dont have, and quote you a cost plus price there and then. The rand weakness has come through on most stock items - like cassettes, bbs, chains and chain rings. Don't compare a web price without first confirming stock first. I ordered a tool for R229 online only to be told that the new stock was R419. Solomon's gets my buck anyday.

They should be available locally. They come with the Giant tapered headset so someone may have one lying about if they didnt need it.

You can see by looking at the bike. A "straight" head tube is the same size at both ends where the fork steerer protrudes (top and bottom). Both the headset cups are the same size. On a tapered steerer the bottom headset cup is larger than the one.

Could be one of a few things. First check the obvious - chain length - In the granny and small at the back the chain should be roughly paralell to itself at the pulley wheels. When on the large/large gears the derailleur cage should not be pulled forward more than about 45 deg. Next check that the RD is mounted properly, making sure that the small extension on the mounting assembly that hooks on the step on the deraileur hangar is on the right side ie at the back of the hangar so that the spring will be activated when the cage is pulled forward. If you can't find the cause get someone to have a look at it. You shouldn't need any additional bits and pieces - these things are normally robust and reliable.

It's removable. Ideally you would use a blind puller with a slide hammer but you should be able to get it out with a hammer and a longish punch. Have someone hold the frame steady and insert the punch from the top - making sure that the punch is on the bearing and not the headset cap. Strike on opposite sides of the bearing. If it is a Specialized mindset headset you need to remove the cap and bearing as one. If you are near me (Fourways) I can give you a hand.

I would never buy a wheel with proprietary spokes. I don't care which team rides them or how good they look. If I can't get it fixed in Knysna, Nelspruit or any other small town then it is not for me.

RavX and Lezyn both sell a preset torque driver which clicks at 5nm which is perfect for your general settings. They retail at around R300-00 and come with a 5mm 1/4 inch drive bit. You can add others. Suggested torque settings for bars, stems, disc bolts, shifters and brakes, cable clamps and derailleur clamps are all in the 4-6nm range. Seatpost clamps less (about 2) and saddles, crank bolts and pedals higher (8-15). Your BB's, cassettes and freehubs much higher ( 40+nm). Park tool Blue book has a good torque setting appendix and you can get info online.

A Fox fork service is around R750 and a Fox shock service is around R350. That will cover labour, suspension oil and a seal kit. If repairs are needed that would obviously cost more, depending on what is wrong. I can do it for you email me at dave@spokeandspanner.co.za or call 072 222 7185

The changes listed in 1) above will bring the bike up to 10 speed and in theory the wheels will be interchangeable. You may need to do a minor gear adjustment to get the shifting perfect when changing the wheels. Any 10 speed Shimano or Shimano compatible road cassette will work - Tiagra through to Dura Ace or Sram. It may be more cost effective to buy a second hand 10 speed bike than to source new parts for the old 9 speed.

Once you get a bit of corrosion around the bolt they can be pretty difficult to get out. Helps to have a drift of the right size and extra hands to hold the frame. The worst I've seen came out with a terrible scream and a bit of persuasion from a 16 tonne hydraulic press. No damage to the carbon frame but the mechanic was sweating somewhat.

I can't see why they should cost more. A spoke is a spoke - only the length varies - and they vary over a big range. I'll bet you will find deep section road wheels with lengths similar to 650s. As for the black vs silver the swing is to black for most builds, however you still need plenty of silver for repairs and such. I am expecting stock eaqrly in the new year but I am sure the local distributors will have.

At 93kg (or for anyone above 70kg) I wouldn't reccomend the Blunt SL. Actually for a 29er I would stick to the standard Blunt rims.

I don't know about MTB but at 70 Jan van den Berg continues to embarrass (or should I say humiliate?) me on the road, 10 yrs his junior and no added parts.

Conti City Ride

Those rims are available locally. They are not available as factory builds as far as I know so you will need to get them built up. You can also get the Italian DRC rims which are very similar to the Open Pro but less pricey. Velocity Fusion (Austrailian) are also an option (I priced them about two weeks ago at just under R1000 ea). If you want a durable wheel and are gifted as you say, go for more spokes. I built myself CXP 33's on 36 hole Dura Ace hubs (I had the hubs) and they are strong enough for a tandem. If you want me to quote you just drop me a pm.

I would replace the cable and housing before looking at the STI. Dirt, wear and even a kink in the cable can introduce a lot of drag.

I ride 25's and won't go back. The difference is significant and I put it down to the fact that most 23's are closer to 21 in reality. In theory the rolling resistance is better but obviously the weight higher. As for tread, you don't need any on a road bike, as long as there is some rubber over the kevlar or whatever and you don't get punctures keep riding. 25's are less likely to pinch puncture and you can safely ride at 6 bar for touring. No noticable difference in performance - I still get dropped.

You can bend the frame to accomodate the axel. Not easy, you need a jack, frame alignment tool and a lot of nerve. Also be careful if you adjust the wheel by removing spacers as it most likely will have to be re-dished.

You can use the 20 hole Darkhorse rim on the rear. I would suggest more spokes for a more durable wheel if you don't have the hub already. I can cut and thread the spokes for you as well as build the wheel. Give me a shout (I'm on your doorstep). 072 222 7185

I got mine from Checkers Hyper in the tool section. Cheapest by far.

Sounds like you will need to replace the headset as you won't get the lower part on its own.

I can cut, thread and supply spokes. You need to make sure that the spokes in your wheel are the optimum length ie the spoke end is flush with the nipple slot. Take one out of each side and measure carefully from the inside of the J bend to the end of the thread. Often the ones you order online are in packs of 72 of the same length which is not helpful for a single build. Also, wherever you get them from, go for double butted. I charge R300 labour for a standard wheelbuild if needed.

Wheels are a bit like the hammer I inherited from my grandfather. Two new heads, three new handles and it's still going strong! Thinking of the wheels I have scrapped over the last while it has usually been because of fatigue (cracks around the nipple holes) or that the cost of repair exceeds the wheel value. Mostly this is when you have non standard spokes, rims or hubs or a badly worn brake surface. (I have seen a rim where the tube has burst through the worn braking surface). A well designed, built and maintained wheel will last many years.

Who got there at 11h00 this morning? Just revisited and yes, there are min entries in the open groups but the licenced are better supported.