David Marshall

Difficult to say without seeing the hub. Free hubs don't often give problems because the wear on the mechanism only happens when freewheeling. I have come across a similar symptom when the RD was too close to the cluster without enough space between the jockey wheel, chain and cluster. This can be adjusted with the screw on the back of the RD. You can check this with the bike on a stand and back pedal in the different gears and look carefully at what is happening between the chain, gear and jockey. If the freehub is "failing" why didn't your LBS replace it? I am sorry but I don't buy any "about to fail analysis" without a second opinion.

You won't damage the derailer or the chain. The derailer will do what the shifters tell it to. Your problem may come in with the difference of cable pull between the 9 speed and 7 speed shifters (the spaces between the gears on the 7 speed hub and the 9 speed are not the same). If they were the same - no problem as you would just have to set the derailer Hi/Lo limit screws. Furthermore I doubt if you can replace the 7 speed cluster(??) with a 9 speed casette. I don't think it will be worth the hassel anyway because every time you change wheels you will have to reset the limit screws and possibly have to adjust the gears.

If you have time - always worth shopping around. Of the eight bike shops within 10km of my house I spend the most at Solomons Woodmead followed by Cycle Lab and then Cycle Fountain. I get my USN products from Hyperama - usually cheaper than both Dischem and Makro.

I think the diffs is insignificant. I prefer the road type jockey wheels with bushes over the bearing types - they wear but generally don't fail even if you perceive the drag to be more. At least you can finish the race or ride home.

Plus one! A change of saddle also helps.

Maybe you could add cone wrenches for wheel hub service and a pedal wrench. A decent cable cutter is also worth it. A magnet on a telescopic handle and magnetic parts tray are also useful items. Some plastic syringes for grease and copper compound and of course you need a sharpened spoke to "pick" rubbish out of your brake pads and tyres.

Yup - 6,7 and 8 speed use the same chain.

Yup, that's me - and I shouldn't really be there 'cos I can't keep up with the top half of the group, but getting some good workouts in the meantime !

I run like that for exactly the same reason.

I have spent a number of years in the FMCG field. I would be very cautious about entering this sector. The way I see it you have three problems, 1) To get your product onto the retail shelves. 2) To get your product to move off the retail shelves and 3) To successfully compete with the existing brands. Just looking at 1) You are already stepping into a minefield. Establishing a product is extremely expensive. Your packaging and labelling costs come upfront before you even get an order from a retailer. No major retailer is going to accept your word on your product. You will have to prove by independent lab verification that your product does and contains what you say it should. You will also have to submit your production facility to regular audits by the retailer specified auditors (at your cost). Then I have never seen a store with sufficient shelf space. For your product to get on to the shelf something has to come off. You now need to convince the buyer to do this. If you get over this step you will now be pushed to the worst position on the shelf. The big guys have access to full time instore merchandisers to look after their shelf space and don't give a hoot about you. .... I could go on all day! You may be able to start small and supply your club mates with stuff packed in your garage but to be successful in the long run you are going to have to put some heavy investment in. 32GI is a case in point. From what I see they have a successful product (from the reviews I read) but instore you only find their product if you really look for it. I see that they use an established company to pack their products and maybe also distribute and merchandise for them - all costs. I would also keep my day job!

I'm happy to help - have the tools and expertise. Based near Lonehill - Midrand. Will pm contact details.

I feared this from the start. After yesterday I thought I may be wrong but no such luck. The people in the city just do not want cycling on their turf - especially if they are not informed before hand. I know how peeved I get when the metro cops put up a road block in Sandton on a weekend because the traffic is BAD. Same happened at the Nationals in PE. You can't bring to the people what they are not interested in. (maybe once the tour is on the map?) Stick to country areas and small towns that can see the benefit of hosting these events. This kind of thing just increases tension between cyclists and motorists. Poor show!

For MTB, especially shocks, Johan Bornman. I've never had a bike serviced at Solomon's in Woodmead but I've spent a lot on parts there. Always been most helpful to the point of stripping a derailer off a new bike for me when they did not have the one I needed. (Had six different Deore 8 speed RD's in stock but I needed the seventh). I'll be back.

Forget the style police. Use small neat saddlebag and you won't forget anything in the car. I am a two tube man. Once hit a pothole in a stage race at about 50kmph and punctured both tyres - only one tube and I lost a lot of time. Not very easy to borrow a tube from guys passing at that speed.

There is not a big demand for second hand aliminum frames. I recently bought a light Scott with seatpost, stem and FD for just under R1000. You see frames advertised for more but you don't see much movement on them. Even the bike shops have older model (unused) ali frames at low prices.

In a road race I carry a small pump and in my saddlebag I have one CO2 bomb, tyre levers, two tubes and a speed link.

I am seriously concerned about the Tour of SA in Gauteng this weekend. Nothing but the most general of communications to date. No advisory notices, no expected times, no publication of finish position or the approach to Monte. Traffic in this area is HECTIC on weekends. Are there going to be closures, partial closures or even rolling closures? If we as keen cyclists are in the dark heaven help the poor unsuspecting motorist.

Like Trubie I got stuck at the back of the ALs on the line. I did not manage to rejoin the main group but the smallish bunch I was in (mixed with tandems) had a safe ride all the way, finishing in just over three hours. As to the issues raised in this thread, I think riders have to be made more aware of the rules and etiquette of group riding. Riding in the licensed groups last year I was shocked at how many riders are guilty of cheating by hanging onto passing vehicles and bunches - some of them not even aware that it is not on. It is so dishartening when the guys you have dropped come flying past you on the back of the A bunch. Perhaps the marshalls should have a photographer on the back of the bike to record the culprits. A warning and pic in the post may help.

Personal choice "but" you need a tyre with a puncture resistant lining like a gatorskin or even a hardcase, or one of the more expensive brands. The "sport" tyres (R100 to R200) are inadequate. They have little resistance to glass which is our main problem in SA. Glass also sits under the surface of the thicker, softer rubber and leads to repunctures. I have tried a number of the cheaper tyres (Bontrager sport, Conti ultrasport and Maxxis detanators). In my case the last mentioned performed best but I would not re purchase. The Continental gatorskins have reasonable resistance to punctures and are really training tyres but most of your opposition will be on them as well. In addition to Crown, Solomons have them at R300 including a tube. Interesting tyre write ups on bikereview.

I use USN Vooma. Around R80 for ten at Hyperma

I agree - also check that the portion of the axel protruding out passed the cones is the same on both ends of the axel - count the exposed thread - it should be the same on both sides

What does the wall look like from the inside? You may have a cut through the reinforcing which has allowed the bubble to form. Even a small cut from a glass puncture that damages the casing can cause the failure. If you haven't punctured the tyre at all in the past I would take it back to the shop and they can follow it up with continental.

Book a course with Johan at Yellowsaddle. Afternoon course costs the same as a LBS shock service and you come home with a serviced shock as well as the knowledge to do it yourself in future. He can also supply most oils and seals

I am with you there - may not use the 53/11 much but when you need it you need it. I will always choose to have this option available.

Other possibilities are that the seatpost is too high for the small frame or that the rear suspension bushing/pivots are worn. If you hold the frame and rock the rear wheel there should be no lateral play at all.