David Marshall

Johan Bornman

Go with Mudda's formula. The problem for a LBS in using anything other than tubeless tires on tubeless ready rims is that you can waste a lot of time and effort (and strips and sealant) before you get an acceptable outcome. I also won't do it for a customer although it can obviously be successfully done.

There is no regulated training or qualification for Bicycle Mechanics in SA. Also there is no incentive for anyone, including Johan, to register courses, train assessors and go the whole seta route. I don't think that the retail bike industry working together could pull it off. Even the Department of Labour does not rate bike mecs very highly. In the proposal for the Occupational Qualifications Framework they are listed on the lowest level. 3. Skill level 1 occupations · will be certificates not awards · skills requiring little theory and primarily taught on-the-job Example: Stable hand, fast-food cook, shelf filler, porter, bicycle mechanic Leaves the potential bike mec with three options - go overseas, learn on the job (on our bikes from a mec with no qualifications) in a retail store or try something like what Johan is offering. As for Simon Kolin's comment - '' My “beef”, since you rhetorically asked (yes I recognise the irony), is this. I have issue in the way you have (IMHO) misled and thinly disguised your attempt to procure income for yourself under the guise of “Apprenticeship”." IMHO you have not thought this through. Johan's unrecognised and uncertified courses are oversubscribed (just follow the threads) so how is duping two extra candidates going to make him rich? Cheap shot. What I read from the OP is that there is an opportunity available for a keen person to get an intro into a career with possibilities, not guarantees, by training in a top class workshop under a respected mechanic. The fact that the mechanic can be an arrogant, opinionated perfectionist just means it won't be plain sailing! Take it or leave it.

Seals you can get from a bearing supplier but the dust wipers are the problem. You need to make sure that the recess at the top of the lower leg assembly is deep enough to take the oil seal and the dust wiper that you need to use. Enduro can probably supply both but you will need to measure everything carefully first. Oil you can get from a motorbike shop.

Park Tool's Big Blue Book has an appendix of common torque settings.

There are some fancy tools around, some for fitting and removing the bearings in the frame and others for servicing the bearings themselves. Of the ones I've seen I like the Enduro one (Rushsports) the best. Must admit that in our workshop the prefered method of installation is the large bench vise and two people. Removal is more difficult (unless you don't need to reuse the bearing) - then we use the Shimano tool (similar to the one in the Enduro kit). I have the Enduro suspension bearing press set which comes with BB30 fitting discs similar to the FSA one above.

The resonance can be set off by anything - finding the exact cause is difficult as changing anything that affects the set up (stem length, wheels, fork etc) can cause it to stop, even if that component did not set it off in the first place. I 've noticed that rider tension can be a significant factor in the onset, even just shivering from cold! It can happen to any bike and a bike that shimmies with one rider at 50 km ph can be rock solid with another at 100km ph. It has to do with the combined rider/bike set up. It is not a brand or cost thing - put any bike on a workstand, turn the crank and see how quickly the lack of balance becomes obvious. If your bike set up is right and everything is in good shape and you still have a problem, time for a change - it is not worth that feeling every time you descend.

They are specific to the model. You need to get the series number off the brake eg 5500 or whatever and then see if you can get them. Agent may not have the older stock but can possibly get them.

Some shops service in house - others send to the agent. I guess an oil/seal replacement service will be around R600-700 for a Fox or Rock fork. Yours may be more depending on whether it is the seal or hose leaking. Give Yellowsaddle a call.

700x28c will fit on most RC3000 models. I think the carbon rear stays on the RC7000 and 8000 were too narrow for 28mm tires.

Johan Bornman will be back in the country on Monday. I'm sure this will raise a response from him.

Your LBS can order for you from agent (Cape Cycle Systems). Easiest as you suggest to swop out with somone who wants remote. Unfortunatly most people look to go manual. As a last resort you can do a backyard job and remove the spring from the damper cartridge.

could also be a problem with the freehub.

Sanity check! Reverse thread on left side - from riders position - standard thread on right.

You will get some oil loss when deflating. Depends on how much oil was in to start with. The service manual specifies 5ml but I put in a little more.

Agreed. You can then depress the brake without the pads in but with a suitable spacer between the pistons and apply a drop of whatever fluid you use to the pistons with a cotton bud to lube them.

I would say reduce the length by 1 to 2.5mm (1 for competition type spokes and up to 2.5 for revolution type spokes). You need to measure the ERD more accurately than you have done above. Measure the length of two spokes from the end of the spoke to the J bend. then put the spokes into opposite holes in the rim, fit a nipple to each of two spokes and screw the nipple to the point where the spoke is flush with the slot in the nipple. Pull the spokes towards each other and measure the distance between them (to the same point on the J bend that you measured the spoke length. The length of the two spokes plus the gap between them will give you the ERD. The spokes on your existing build are a bit short. They should not be recessed in the nipples, or stand proud for that matter. On the surface it looks as if your spokes should work for your proposed hub. Be sure not to mix up drive and non drive side spokes AND make sure that you use inbound and outbound as they were. Check and recheck your measurements- preferably with someone else as any error will only become apparent well into the wheel build.

Cones, balls and axels and spacers can be bought through a bike shop. If the cup part of the bearing surface in the hub is pitted - you will need a new hub. Use the point of a ball pen to feel around the surface of the cup (or cone) where the balls have run to feel any irregularities. Use a magnifying glass to check the balls. Replace them if there are any signs of wear.

I don't see any advantage in changing it to a 10 speed (unless you already have one). Rather get a 9 speed Sora. The shimano 9 and 10 speed road derailleurs can usually be made to work when swopped around but the shifters, chains and cassetts can't. What makes you say your RD is on its way out? They usually outlive everything else in the drivetrain, unless you grate them on the tar.

My opinion, not worth the cost or effort. Hybrids have no second hand value so you can pick one up second hand for around a grand - new they are about R4000. I recently bought a Raleigh Platinum Breeze for 900 and an Avalache Mistral for 750, both with Acera groupsets. You will battle to convert anything at those prices.

Pre owned. There are some good buys out there.

The derailleur will do what the shifter tells it to do, so as long as there is enough space between the limit screws you should be able to get just about any derailleur to work with any shifter. This will apply to both front and rear. The shifters need to be compatible with the cassette. Don't mix 9 and 10 speed and also check which brands are compatible. The derailleurs obviously have to be able to cope with the chainring and cassette range. Chains can be used backwards ie 10 speed with 9 and 9 with 8 etc but rather use the correct width ones.

Most have a bolt inside to expand the thing against the steerer. You have to remove the top cap bolt completely and then usulally you can see the head of the tightening mech. Most LBS have them from cheap (around R50) to not so cheap. I prefer the ones with a rubber surface as they tend to slip less.

Sounds like the tube has been pinched. Either with tools when fitting or more likely between the tire and tube when pumping up. I always fit tyres with my hands alone and make sure that there is just a little air in the tube when doing so. Then pump the tube a little more and check the tire is seated in the rim all round and the tube is clear. Squeeze and move the tire to check this. I then press the valve stem into the tire to check that it is free, as this is the area where pinching happens most. Pump to full pressure and then screw on the valve retainer.

As far as I know they don't. They take strain on the J bend from the natural tension and relaxation caused by the wheel rotation with the riders weight. This is worst on the rear wheel non drive side. Still depending on the value of the hub/rim it is hardly worth re using the old spokes. Also you would need the new rim to have exactly the same diameter as the old one. Idealy your spoke length needs to be correct to 1 mm.