David Marshall

The derailleur will do what the shifter tells it to do, so as long as there is enough space between the limit screws you should be able to get just about any derailleur to work with any shifter. This will apply to both front and rear. The shifters need to be compatible with the cassette. Don't mix 9 and 10 speed and also check which brands are compatible. The derailleurs obviously have to be able to cope with the chainring and cassette range. Chains can be used backwards ie 10 speed with 9 and 9 with 8 etc but rather use the correct width ones.

Most have a bolt inside to expand the thing against the steerer. You have to remove the top cap bolt completely and then usulally you can see the head of the tightening mech. Most LBS have them from cheap (around R50) to not so cheap. I prefer the ones with a rubber surface as they tend to slip less.

Sounds like the tube has been pinched. Either with tools when fitting or more likely between the tire and tube when pumping up. I always fit tyres with my hands alone and make sure that there is just a little air in the tube when doing so. Then pump the tube a little more and check the tire is seated in the rim all round and the tube is clear. Squeeze and move the tire to check this. I then press the valve stem into the tire to check that it is free, as this is the area where pinching happens most. Pump to full pressure and then screw on the valve retainer.

As far as I know they don't. They take strain on the J bend from the natural tension and relaxation caused by the wheel rotation with the riders weight. This is worst on the rear wheel non drive side. Still depending on the value of the hub/rim it is hardly worth re using the old spokes. Also you would need the new rim to have exactly the same diameter as the old one. Idealy your spoke length needs to be correct to 1 mm.

The work you guys did was impressive. I had a few sniffs of the fresh air on the front of that bunch but not enough to be called a worker. My feeling is that if someone is strong enough to be seeded in a bunch ( man, woman, old or young) they are capable of doing a turn on the front - especially after the teams have "left" us. What I really find hard is trying to get to the front from 5 or 6th wheel just because someone who insists on being third wheel refuses to do a turn. That and guys who join the "loop" without any intention of hitting the front - and then not giving the spent workers a gap to get back in. Leaves me shaking my head. (old guy in Cyclelab kit)

Was seeded AL last year, started BL as I was boxed in in the starting pens. That and the depleted elites gave me a great seeding index for the race (best i've ever had). It has kept me in the top twenty all year. Guess that will change come Sunday, sigh!

I have a 2006 Merida 904 and 25mm fit with plenty of room. I am sure 28mm would fit, but try before you buy.

The threaded part is on the steerer tube on the fork, the part of the fork which goes through the frame. If that has a thread on and a nut holds it all together it is a threaded headset. From the pics above it looks like your set up is a threadless one (from what I can see of the stem). Here the bolts clamping the stem to the steerer hold it all together. If you replace it you will need to knock out the cups from the frame and remove the "race" - the cone part that the bearing runs on - from the fork. You will get new ones with the new headset. It looks like you have two spacers between the headset and stem so stack height should not be a problem. After removing the cups from the frame carefully measure the diameter of the tube where the cup fits. I think that there is more than one standard for this. Chain reaction cycles carries quite a range of headsets so you might get one there but as Johan says - not cheap! weigh it up against a newer second hand frame and fork (less than R1000). To remove the cups take a piece of metal tubing (conduit or curtain rail) about 30cm long. Split it with a hack saw for about 10cm. Prise the ends apart and pull it into the headtube so that the split ends rest on the internal lip of the cup and hammer out. If you don't have a bearing puller for the race use a flat screw driver and some care.

Best grease is the one your neighbour keeps in his garage. Use a plastic syringe to put it where you need it. As Walker said copper compound is great for threads and just about anything that comes into contact with anything else, which you may want to take apart again, and does not move. Cables, housing and the end caps get from your bike shop. The fork seal kits you can order through your lbs or get online. There are generics available.

The guidelines for qualification and the format of the tour were published beforehand. The problem as I see it is that it was too little too late and not in the right media spots. An event of this magnitude should be on the calander months in advance. This past weekend I rode the Druiwefees (what?) at Madimole (where?) and we had a similar sized field. If a small country event can get those numbers the World qualifyier should be able to do much better! Just a few comments on the preceeding posts; The race itself was well organised with good support from traffic police and I felt safe all the way around. There is little chance of another race in South Africa as the 2012 qualifying events have already been sanctioned by UCI. UCI and not CSA determine the qualifiers. Supposedly the top 25% in each age catagory and up to 50% if necessary should qualify. Me thinks the strange results are due to the fact that because of the low numbers multiple catagories were started in the same bunches which led to big splits within each catagory. I think that in the older cats a number of riders, including myself, have been given the benefit of the doubt. Possibly to ensure enough riders for the big day? I'll take my "wildcard" anyway.

I was also pleasantly supprised to see my name on the list. But what really shocked me was to see the number of Aussies who made it - 69 in my age group - and they still have anothere qualifying race to go. We fielded a TOTAL of 15 riders. I think part of the reason for our low numbers is that the event was not advertised on the normal online entry pages. Not everyone wathces Supercycling or goes onto the CSA webpage. I have spoken to a number of guys who were not aware of the event or its significance.

The surface of the ultegra pedal (under the cleat) is supposedly sacrificial and should be replaced when it has worn down to the level of the rest of the pedal. Mine have had three years of heavy use and show little sign of wear. Black pedals always look more "worn" than silver but as long as they spin freely and the cleats attach well why change?

Not defending the age split but the tour replaces the Masters World Championships and seems to be aimed at the older riders. The 16-29 group are the "Challenger class" and it excludes any team riders, pros, Olympic riders or anyone having scored UCI points. So really the event is aimed at recreational cyclists wanting to have a go.

I see that the riders who qualified at the Msunduzi Road Challenge are now listed on the Tour website (http://www.uciworldcyclingtour.com/).

I used to sail there a lot and I would not swim there unless I went over, which was quite often, and I am still around. The council used to test the water routinely so they may have actual data - if you can find the right person to speak to. As far as I recollect the bad times were after the first few storms in spring when a lot of the rubbish in the storm water system entered the dam. Maybe the scuba club (if they still operate?) the canoe or sailing clubs have this info.

Wheel upgrade!

Can't use 9 speed with 10 speed. As for the SRAM 10 speed being reuasble, there were a couple of failures in the States which led to them packaging them as single use (Was covered on the hub a while ago). If you look at the 10 speed they do not have the pressed in recesses for the pin to seat in which are clearly visable on the 9 speed. This is the area which gets damaged with reuse but you can reuse them - just don't expect any recourse. I rather use YBN or KMC ones as they are reusable and cheaper.

You can use any 10 speed quick link. I don't use the SRAM 10 speed ones as they specify single use which is a bit of a hassel and they are the most expensive. I think they are the lightest 'though.

It is a nice frame, I sold mine a while ago (here) and eventually got R3500 for it. As Eugene said I would rather go for a new Scott. Fuji, Meridas and I suppose others are also very competitivly priced at the moment. The Nitro is becoming dated and I don't think they are supported in SA any longer.

Upgrade is a relative term. I would only consider a bigish jump (to something like the RS80, Fulcrum 3 or better) as a worthwhile upgrade. Aksium, 105 etc are a side step (may be newer but not necessarily better). I would service the hubs, tension the spokes and let her ride until the braking surfaces are worn out.

I few months ago I could not find Koolstop salmon and fitted RavX Red pads. I've been very happy with them - brake well in wet or dry and don't collect as much ali debris as the standard pads - well worth the R60-00.

Unless you are having hassels with the brakes why bother?

I don't think you will notice any performance difference. Just make sure you use a torque wrench when you fiddle in that area!

My secret is to hang on to the strong men in the bunch for as long as possible and then to pray that the second group is strong enough to carry me to the end in time. Usually works, especially in an early start group. Spreadsheets, times and garmins don't work for me - eyes finished, gone no longer working!

I have no idea of what CSA's constitution or mandate is but I have been involved in other sports and I assume that the basics are the same. Members join at club level, clubs are affiliated into regional or provincial bodies and the regional bodies are affiliated into a national body. The National body then sets national policy and represents the country in the international arena. This usually involves heavy affiliation fees for the right to use the international rules and structures. These are unavoidable if you want to participate in the international arena. The other area of activity is the involvement of the national body in the local administration of the sport and local events. This seems to be the area of dissatisfaction, if I interpret the many threads dealing with CSA correctly. What to do about it? My thoughts, which may be a bit simplistic. 1) Boycotting CSA or dumping CSA in favor of a different body is no solution. We still need the affiliation with UCI and the structure already exists. No benefit in scrapping and then trying to rebuild. 2) Dealing with the dissatisfaction in the local administration. Pressure will have to come from the clubs pressurizing the regional structures who vote in the national body. This will involve members (you and I) attending club agm's, lobbying for votes and pressurizing the administrators elected by us into taking action. Unfortunately this is left to too few interested, unpaid individuals with time constraints. The final job is then left to paid employees and administrators who are somewhat removed from the membership (and reality?) who then earn our ire when they mess up. What will I do about it? Continue to affiliate to CSA and start getting more involved in my clubs administration. What do I expect to get for my buck? Personally nothing. What would I like to get for my buck? a) Number collections consigned to a distant memory. One race number, one timing chip, one national seeding database and one online entry portal. In this day and age even I could sort this one out. B) Safe, affordable events (and I don’t care who organizes them).