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Would it not go down more if you don’t fix it?
I would ride the bike first and see as I had the same idea with my new bike going from a 10x42 with a 34 oval, very glad I did not.
Different bike rides differently, putting a 36 up front, which consisting I came from an oval is half of what I had, would have been a terrible idea for some of the more nasty climbs.
As used to it as I was, I can guarantee you I would have gone back and bought a 34 if I’d had them swap it.
I worked in insurance, I used to write the software to do the risk analysis, I know exactly what to look for.This is an excellent price, holy crap.
Just plz check the clauses in the contract.
Seems abit way too good to be true basis all the quotes i received.
You must also remember these new companies save a **** ton of money by not having legacy systems, automating most of the processes, using credit cards over debit orders. Immensely cuts down on costs, staff to maintain legacy systems is foooooooking expensive.
They get to benefit from newer tech and effectively cheaper, yet equally if not more capable developers than those maintain software written 20 years ago.
R126 on an R80k bike! That's the lowest premium I think I've ever seen. Is that comprehensive cover? Who is the insurer?
Full comprehensive, I’ve got everything covered with Naked. I pay 176 in total for 2 bikes totaling 120k. Vehicles on the pricey side but I’ve only had a 4 wheeler license for just over a year, and yet they still cheaper than the likes of Discovery, Santam, outsurance and a few others.
The problem I see with JaSure is the price, what I am paying now per month is less than what they charge for a single day., so the ability to turn it off is mute.
On top of that their excess is 10% and on my bike that’s 8k whereas now I pay a fixed 1k.
No sense paying a higher premium AND a higher excess, especially not 8x higher.
That is pretty much the problem with specialist and adhoc insurers, there is a risk cross subsidy when you have larger policies or more items insured, that’s why you will often find vehicle and content will individually be cheaper when both covered with the same insurer vs having them as individuals at that insurer.
And almost all the time, high value portable items will be much cheaper when bundles as part of home vs individual.
My insurer maxes at 50k for an individual item cover, a 50k bike is R168, put that same bike as part of content and it’s R86. Same cover, same excess vastly different price as you loose out on the cross subsidy discount.
JaSures only value proposition is the ability to pause, but why would I pay R134 and 8k excess for 1 day when I can pay R126 and 1k excess for an entire month.
2
I've never been on a Wattbike, I know extremely little about them, but I have a friend trying to get into triathlons and he is asking questions.
The extent of this guys tracking when we ride is a seldom working wired cycle computer.
He has been wanting to get into triathlons and has enlisted a coach to help him train. The coach has given him a training program which he now needs to follow. On the coaches recommendation he has registered on Strava, but obviously now he needs to get data off the Wattbike at the gym.
I'm assuming at the very least he needs some sort of fitness watch for HR data. Do the Watt bikes at the gym allow you to connect to them to get the data from them whilst you ride ?
I previously connected my Garmin to them and it would read the speed, cadence and power off them, but I was not able to connect to all of them.
4 hours of labour at R1700 is a rip off when most shops are charging R250 an hour
I am guessing that mechanic either has super cheap rent, tools or both or is not very good.
The shop I go to charges 500, but they have 3 mechanics and the lead has over a decades experience, he worked as a team mechanic internationally for a number of years, worked at the epic for 8, was a pro racer.
I am sure there are guys closer that are cheaper and I have used others in the past, but as a person who values the cost of time and understands the value of experience.
Your not paying for the 10 minutes it takes him to do the job, your paying for the 10 years it took him learn how to do it in 10 minutes.
10
I am keen to get these too, do you think they will hold in a dry wall scenario?
Depends on if you can mount it to a support beam maybe , drywall alone probably not going to support the weight of a bike against a single mount point.
I had my wall mount pull out of brick and it was rather for 15kg and was hanging a 12kg bike. After that I replaced it with roll bolts
You can imagine in SA how one could load up a Venter trailer to be equal to or greater than the weight of the car towing it!
I think in the case of them smaller cars, that may actually just be an empty venter.
When I was looking at buying a smaller car, i10 I think it was I learned that the reason they don’t make tow bars for such small cars was that it was illegal for such light vehicles to tow trailers.
More recently a friend explained the legality around towing, basically the car being soo light, any trailer, even an empty one would result in a significant impact to breaking capability.
The dealer however did say it was possible to install a tow hook, which is rated for up to 45kg, which should suffice for 2 to 3 bikes on one of the simpler racks
Reme, I'd say that the only "safe" way of moving them further out is to get an engineering shop to either make up an extension, or a longer spindle.
The easiest way would just be to either ignore it, or adjust your heels out slightly. Put some protection tape on the chainstays to prevent paint damage, if that's important to you.
The most expensive would probably be to get pedals with a wider platform, or with a platform that starts further away from the thread (longer spindle)
That’s the buy new shoes but, they too well worn in now to adjust my footing. Seems like that’s the best bet.
when I lived in the States, 20-odd years back, I bought a set of these:
Seems company still makes them, they worked well for me...
Keen to know what your SAFETY concerns are; I can GOOGLE what safety concerns may be, but cannot THINK of any; each one had thread that tightened as you pedaled, so as not to come loose - let me know!
Chris
The extension snapping, it’s adding a potential weakness, some of the reviews I read on the ones I found on Amazon mentioned exactly that, the extension snapping while ridding.
Hi have a look at the SQ lab website they have pedals with longer spindels i have bought a set last week
Those don’t look like very good pedal options, other than being ugly. 2 of the 3 are clipless and Vaults are flat pedal. Their own flat pedal is quite literally a commuter pedal, you don’t put that on a MTB.
How much do you weigh?
96/98
Not 5mm each side, maybe a 2mm spacer on the pedal each side is the max I'd risk
Maybe you could play with a Dh crank and lots off bb spacers
Lol, I was talking 10mm a side...
PeSandy Bike Pedal Extenders, 1 Pair Chrome-Molybdenum Steel Bicycle Pedal Extender Extended Pedal Spacer Fit Any 9/16 in Threaded Pedals Bike SPD MT MTB BMX Road Street Bicycle, Extended 20mm/ 0.79in https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07ZN265CB/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_aQ3zFb9X9565B
That is the most likely going to kill me extenders I found.
I suspect one does not exist but anyway, new pikes chains stays are pretty wide, so keep knocking them with my heels when pedaling.
Is there a safe way to move the pedals further out, google pointed me to some extended bolts and that just seems like it will adding a week point to a place you don’t want one.
The DMR Vaults have a decent bolt spacing, but an extra 10mm would do wonders for clearance, are this extenders safe or is there a replacement spindle with a longer bold I could upgrade too or do I just wait for new shoes so that I can change my foot position.
As a temp I simply just pedal with my feet further out, but obviously want proper placement went going down so still get some knocking.
Yeah, each time I have contacted them for a quote everything was out of stock. Stopped bothering.
I’m trying to upload my ride from next Saturday, but I’m having some problems. Anyone know how to upload a ride from the future? [emoji1787][emoji1787]
It was a typo I’m sure, once you follow the link they ask to link your strava for the future upload.
I have three bikes linking to my GC and Strava accounts, ie MTB, Commuter and Trainer.
On Strava the default is set to MTB. After rides on the trainer or commuter it is easy to select one of the other bikes for the ride, and thus keeping the records of each bike accurate.
On Garmin Connect I have set up all three bikes, with the MTB being the "default bike" ... But I can't seem to figure out how to select one of the other bikes for a ride on one of these bikes .....
Will appreciate it if you can show me how to update the bike for a particular ride in Garmin Connect, either on the App or on the PC.
My searches keep on pointing towards setting the "default bike" ....
So you have not seen the options “Add or remove gear” in the 3 dot menu?
Pyga has great products but their current way of trading isnt great. Friend of mine bought a Pyga and waited more than 2 weeks for the bike.
That’s only really a bad thing if their general communication is in line with my experience, if you know ahead of time or at least get updated as a result of delays it’s not the worst thing.
OP
Spill the beans!
Nico was extremely helpful with this and that was also partially a deciding factor, I emails Pyga a few weeks back and got a quick response to that, but my 2 subsequent replies to that mail have gone unanswered.
Nico on the other hand replied to my first message after 9pm the evening and all follow ups where really quick.
Personally, I never want to struggle or have to chase people to give them money, and 80 grand is not pocket change, my last email to pyga was “I want to buy the bike, what is the lead time and process”.
First ride will be tomorrow, this morning I’ll just hit the mini trail down the road to tune all the bits.
4. Private roads .... we get to ride many of these when attending the Stanford Classic ride at the end of February ... 2 day stage event that is very affordable ... though the costs of accommodation actually brings it close to your prices ...
Hope you get the formula right.
Personally not heard anything good about that classic, few riders I know have said it was the most boring event possible, personally I entered once but life happened and I was never able to go.
They had no publicity available cancelation policy and I emailed them 3 times and they have still not responded, given them timing I had little to no expectation of getting money back, but the least they could have done was a polite “jammer van jou *** te hoor”, but no crickets, so eff em, I won’t even think of booking again.
I was looking out a new bikes and spec for price the Pyga won out, until today when the prices shot up, now it’s R4 less than the AM Team.
To the less experienced me, the Meta looks to be the better option spec wise, bike shop being 10km vs 60km from my house also helps.
Going to demo a Meta later, see how it feels, but any insight would be great.
META: https://www.commencal-store.co.za/meta-am-29-team-2020-c2x29421762
Slakline: https://www.pygaindustries.com/product/slakline/
TIA.
CyclingMikey - nuisance or doing some good
in Cycling Safety
Posted
The amount of times I have wanted to do that, but living in SA, they’ll probably just ride you over to get their phone back.