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Stripped 8mm allen key bolt (hole)


Reg Lizard

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Thanks for those who gave some constructive advice :thumbup:

 

For those more interested in commenting on my "snake encounter", why not revive that topic and we might have some updated photo's to publish ;)

 

Did you get it out? Have you tried proper "penetrating oil"? Remember Q20 is not a proprierty penetrating oil athough it does contain lubricant. I have my doubts whether any oil will penetrate if it is seized that stuck but anything that may help must be tried.

 

Soak in oil overnight, even if you have to submerse, whacks with leather or rubber mallet to crack the bond and try again to remove? You can also try to place punch or similar on the destroyed area a whack that with a hammer. Be carefull of slips and damaging the crank.

 

Have you stripped the pedal body off? You will have to replace the axle in any case. A vice grip clamped in a bench vice around the stripped axle with a lever attached to the crank may be enough to remove it. Use kidds gloves though. Protect all surfaces that may be scratched or damaged.

Edited by eccentric1
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As I said above, rather use the crank arm for leverage. Silly of me to say clamp in a vice grip if you have a bench vice!

 

Crank arms is one reason why I included left and right hand taps for cranks in my latest CRC order. Due to the clumsiness of the pedal itself it is very easty to damage the threads in the crank arm. Chasing it with the correct tap can rescue the crank.

Edited by eccentric1
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Problem with an Allen Key is that the effort is offset. If you are not used to them they can slip out and cause damage. That is what most likely happened here.

 

A pedal wrench puts the effort on the flats on the axle and the contact point is spread over a bigger contact area. Why would designers shy away from this tried and tested concept?

 

If its seated properly, no problem, I have found that system to work well. The Torque is still being applied to the shaft, but as you mention there is an component of the force that wants to push the Allen Key out, that why it needs to be seated deeply.

 

As to why? well, they look cooler!

 

http://www.avantiplus.co.nz/images/products/SH460N898_zoom.jpg

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Put the crank and pedal in the freezer overnight. Then dunk both in hot water. Dry it off, immerse in a good quality penetrating oil for half a day or so, then try to loosen it. If that doesn't work, take it to a machine shop (not a bike shop)

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Did you get it out? Have you tried proper "penetrating oil"? Remember Q20 is not a proprierty penetrating oil athough it does contain lubricant. I have my doubts whether any oil will penetrate if it is seized that stuck but anything that may help must be tried.

 

Soak in oil overnight, even if you have to submerse, whacks with leather or rubber mallet to crack the bond and try again to remove? You can also try to place punch or similar on the destroyed area a whack that with a hammer. Be carefull of slips and damaging the crank.

 

Have you stripped the pedal body off? You will have to replace the axle in any case. A vice grip clamped in a bench vice around the stripped axle with a lever attached to the crank may be enough to remove it. Use kidds gloves though. Protect all surfaces that may be scratched or damaged.

 

Oom ek gaan eers die naweek probeer, wou die pedal net afhaal om te grease in die eerste plek weens 'n irriterende click geluid. Die geluid is nou weg so vir eers kan die pedal maar so bly tot die naweek. Moet nog so paar rye inkry voor dan ;)

 

Ek dink in elke geval die bench vice idee is die een wat ek gaan probeer. Sal 'n mens 'n as los kan koop of sal ek die hele pedal moet vervang.

 

Verskoon die mengsel van tale, maar party terme is maar net makliker om in Engels te skryf. :blush:

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If its seated properly, no problem, I have found that system to work well. The Torque is still being applied to the shaft, but as you mention there is an component of the force that wants to push the Allen Key out, that why it needs to be seated deeply.

 

As to why? well, they look cooler!

 

http://www.avantiplus.co.nz/images/products/SH460N898_zoom.jpg

 

I have removed one of these that was stuck using a vice but not sure if it will work with a Look Keo pedal .... :unsure:

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If its seated properly, no problem, I have found that system to work well. The Torque is still being applied to the shaft, but as you mention there is an component of the force that wants to push the Allen Key out, that why it needs to be seated deeply.

 

As to why? well, they look cooler!

 

http://www.avantiplus.co.nz/images/products/SH460N898_zoom.jpg

 

Cool now costs munny! The Tacoma Narrows bridge also looked cool!

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Besides looking good, less weight for the weenies, with hollowed out core. Resonates with my minimalistic outlook in life.

 

You also get XT like this (R600 on CWC)

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Thanks Grumps, appreciated, though when last where you on the floor :o although workshop skills always stay with one.

 

 

:lol: - Ha,Ha, okay, touché you got me there, probably 20 years ago is the truth, .....I do like to think the basics stay with one, but things have really changed so, okay, I admit, I am very rusty :D

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Besides looking good, less weight for the weenies, with hollowed out core. Resonates with my minimalistic outlook in life.

 

You also get XT like this (R600 on CWC)

 

I suppose with that minimalistic outlook, cool and weight weeny idea comes the "do not complain when it fails and stuffs up my crank as well" clause

 

The Shimano SPD type pedal worx, may not look cool but I spy a little hex nut just behind the peadal body!

Edited by eccentric1
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