Best Chain lube for MTB

[Pipsqueak]

I get understand the penetration of oil, but what if you ride in sand a lot? An oily chain just ends up choked, even with regular cleaning. Maybe using a solvent based lube like Purple Extreme would be better?

[GoLefty!!]

There is no getting away from the fact that there is no definitive answer to the bicycle chain conundrum...oh hold there is, wire rope dressing but see previous posts.

[gongmech]

I heard that chainsaw lube works well. Designed for long wearing at high speed and high temp....although i hope i'm never riding that fast, and designed so that bits dont stick to it...Comments??

[Mr X]

I heard that chainsaw lube works well. Designed for long wearing at high speed and high temp....although i hope i'm never riding that fast, and designed so that bits dont stick to it...Comments??

 

Chainsaw lube is designed to work well under very high temperature, your drivetrain is cold. It should not work well. Go Chain Wax is for cold purpose industrial and agri lube under normal temps like mtb drivetrains. I would not use chainsaw lube on my mtb.

[GoLefty!!]

chainsaw lube is for a high speed, highish temp operation. might be too viscous but it will seal well

[DubbelBuys]

I heard that chainsaw lube works well. Designed for long wearing at high speed and high temp....although i hope i'm never riding that fast, and designed so that bits dont stick to it...Comments??

 

I tried it.

 

Asking whether it works ? Yes.

 

Asking whether it's 1 of the "dirtiest" lubes? Yes to that as well.

 

It's too thick & makes strings as you pedal & all over where the oil strings touches dust will accumilate.

 

As JB said:

 

If your oil is too thick the above will happen.

 

If too thin then you'll see little dots on the rims, chain guard etc.

 

I'm currently trying 40 motor oil (mono grade), but still on the lookout for the 'perfect' lube.

[porqui]

Best kept secret:

 

Mix of cheapest motor oil and chainsaw lube.

Apply as needed.

 

Ratio -- yours to try out and share.

 

BTW - motor oil is useless thats why they use it in motors as there is no friction there especially at the big end which has no balls (or needles).

Edited August 3, 2013 by porqui

[djr50]

These work just fine for me @ 24.99/bottle at Builder's Warehouse

[GoLefty!!]

 

 

BTW - motor oil is useless thats why they use it in motors as there is no friction there especially at the big end which has no balls (or needles).

 

 

really.......

Edited August 3, 2013 by GoLefty!!

[NINER_boy]

Re post...

[Guest]

chainsaw lube is for a high speed, highish temp operation. might be too viscous but it will seal well

nothing wrong with my lube ok.

[mudda]

I decided to try gear box oil ... Degreased the chain, placed the whole chain in a tub , let it drip back in, and dried off the outside ... Did a rosd ride , all good ... Next test will be off road ... Gear box oil does smell different ... Will test in the next 50km or more off road ride or race ...

[DR ◣◢]

Going back to Chain-L.

 

Tried:

- Shimano

- Purple Extreme

- Renthal

- Squirt

- Pedro's

- white lightning

- Chain-L

 

Nothing works like Chain-L

[madmarc]

Best kept secret:

 

Mix of cheapest motor oil and chainsaw lube.

Apply as needed.

 

Ratio -- yours to try out and share.

 

BTW - motor oil is useless thats why they use it in motors as there is no friction there especially at the big end which has no balls (or needles).

 

Oh really, run your engine without oil and see how long it lasts.....cannot believe you actually made this comment

[DR ◣◢]

 

BTW - motor oil is useless thats why they use it in motors as there is no friction there especially at the big end which has no balls (or needles).

 

Please explain how there is no friction in a motor.

[madmarc]

Normal engine oil like 20W30 is too thin and will spray ove your back wheel depending on how much you put on.

Chainsaw oil is too thick and will create spider webs.

 

Mix the 2 together, currently using 1/3 chain saw oil (bar oil) and 2/3 motor oil which seems to be the answer.

 

As a mechanical Engineer i'd like to think i know a bit about lubrication, especially on chain drives. and I cannot believe that people still believe dry lubes work, it's absolute rubbish. Lube nees to push out and into the rollers while the chain is running, Wax and PTFE is not fluid enough once the carrier fluid has evaporated and the wax and ptfe squeezes out of the rollers within the first 5 minutes of riding but does not flow back so efffectivly it is not lubricating.

 

You need to accpet that using oil lube will attract dust and your chainn will get dirty, you will need to clean it so rather invest in proper chain cleaing equipment than expensive rubbish to lube with.

 

I use a hard brush and brush off my chain after every ride, wipe it off with a cloth, blow it out with air compreesor and relube it. I take a small bottle of lube with me and if it gets very noisy i stop and lube on the trail 2 minutes of my time.

 

once a month i remove my chain and clean it in in my parts washer rince it in clean thinners, untill the thinners stays clean, blow it out with air and relube it on the bike.

 

I invest in a small parts washer for 699 ronds and use it to clean all my bike parts

a 10 speed quicklink removal pliers for 100 ronds. Yes they say you can't reuse a 10 spd link but thats also bull**** i reuse mine up to 10 times and keep 2 spare on my rides just in case.

A small home compressor from Builders will set you back under 1000 ronds and can be used for lots of things at home especially tubeless conversions and blowing out water from your components after a bike wash.

 

My chains last for over a year with riding trails 2 - 3 times a week