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RockCoach

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Posted

I am also the in between sizes of bikes Medium or Large. I have always gone the medium route and always feel a little cramped. Next bike frame will more than likely be a large with a nice and short stem.

 

The only boys that make a medium that actually fits me well with a 60mm stem is the on one boys. Both the 26er and the 29er frames just feel right. The on one boys though have always designed around a long top tube and shorter stays. .....pretty much the route of the modern bikes these days.

 

Anyone keen on a medium MOTO frame. .... In no hurry to sell....But if there is a serious buyer I could it rather would sell and then shop around for a large something or other while riding my on one awesome fitting bike.

 

PM me with more info on the MOTO please.

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Posted

Skylark

Something definitely sounds wrong with your Qr setup.

Check that the axle part that sits within the slot of the dropout isnt too long and that there is a gap between the ends of the Qr nut and release mechanism when tightened down in the frame.

 

Let us know if you get it fixed :thumbup:

 

Also what brand of QR is it?

 

Some QR mechanisms are better than others. (Shimano still has the best IMHO)

Posted

 

remember the pressure is not on the QR itself, but on that "shoulder" bit of the hub, which is a bit thicker than the QR. Ive done plenty of flat drops from shoulder height on a hardtail with a QR, never had anything like that happen to me. I weigh about a 100kg on a good day.

 

Can also be the over-tightening that may be the problem, as the "tighness" is not what is suppose to keep the wheel straight.

 

If I land skew and the wheels wants to pull out of the one dropper due to the lateral forces then the tightness is important.

If you always land perfectly square then maybe only the shoulder on the axle end caps takes the heat but otherwise any other way the only thing stopping the wheel from jumping out is the tightness of the Qr. I'm not big or supa vris so maybe I was under tightening the Qr before, very quickly though it's hard to get a good grip on the Qr lever to open them, at the moment I've tightened it so I need bit of extra leverage than just my spindly fingers to get the qr lever open.

Posted

If I land skew and the wheels wants to pull out of the one dropper due to the lateral forces then the tightness is important.

If you always land perfectly square then maybe only the shoulder on the axle end caps takes the heat but otherwise any other way the only thing stopping the wheel from jumping out is the tightness of the Qr. I'm not big or supa vris so maybe I was under tightening the Qr before, very quickly though it's hard to get a good grip on the Qr lever to open them, at the moment I've tightened it so I need bit of extra leverage than just my spindly fingers to get the qr lever open.

 

Think the problem then lies with the swingarm, what the force is too much for the stays to stay in shape, pulling the axle skew, no amount of QR force will prevent this. Bolt will help, but think it should then be part of the frame, not just stuck on like mine used to be. What frame is it?

Posted

I am also in between sizes. I ride a large at the moment and have added a 30mm stem. Feels a little better, bike feels slightly too big. A medium also feels a little cramped. SO i have to make do

Posted

I am also in between sizes. I ride a large at the moment and have added a 30mm stem. Feels a little better, bike feels slightly too big. A medium also feels a little cramped. SO i have to make do

sucks hey!
Posted

Hi everyone.

So I'm building a Shova ST, going 1x10. 34 or 32 chainring??? Going to ride Jonkershoek mainly with the bike. Zee or SLX rear, and lastly narrow wide or simple chainguide? Hope you guys can help me decide...

Posted

Hi everyone.

So I'm building a Shova ST, going 1x10. 34 or 32 chainring??? Going to ride Jonkershoek mainly with the bike. Zee or SLX rear, and lastly narrow wide or simple chainguide? Hope you guys can help me decide...

SHOVA ST: Good Bike

1X10: What cassette are you running on the back and what is your fitness like?

ZEE or SLX: whichever make sure you get a clutch der, Zee "should" be tougher

NARROW WIDE vs CHAIN GUIDE: NW if you have the cash to do so, chain guide with roller if you are going to rock a std or SS type chainring and don't have a good couple of hundred rand to drop on a chainring that will wear out in time.

 

What fork you using on the Shova?

Posted

I have a Pike 426 air. Fitness varies, not bad but the bike will be heavy due to me using my old DH rims on the bike...

Thing is I have a 32 renthal chainring but the cost of a guide is comparable to the cost of a NW chainring...

Posted

 

Think the problem then lies with the swingarm, what the force is too much for the stays to stay in shape, pulling the axle skew, no amount of QR force will prevent this. Bolt will help, but think it should then be part of the frame, not just stuck on like mine used to be. What frame is it?

 

A Shova st, honestly can't see the stays pulling out of line that much (if at all) to be able to pull the qr axle skew?

Thru-axle is the way, no wondering if it's tight enough or if it might break etc, got one on the front, too kif ek se!

 

 

 

Posted

Cassette will be a 36

 

32 x 36 should be fine, I ride Jonkershoek with the same ratio (on a 1x9) and you should be able to get up most of the climbs without to much hassle.

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