Enduro Bearings

[zniper]

HI

 

i need to replace quite a few bearings on my specialized Epic :S and see you get enduro bearing kits ? is it really worth it ? do they last longer ?

 

Found this great place that stock bearing kits.

 

http://mbbearings.co.uk/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=19_1&products_id=25

[Thug]

I just imported a complete Enduro Max bearing kit for my Titus from Real World Cyling with the bushings.

[_im_from_earth]

Hey guys, see the previous posts on this, these are all available locally in SA: Rush Sports / Enduro Bearings

We don't do "kits" as a result of ever changing specifications from the frame and wheel MFG's, but we have pretty much every available bearing on the shelf. If we don't have it we fly out shipments every 3 - 4 weeks.

[_im_from_earth]

Posted tis video in another thread, but it shows clearly how the blind hole puller works. A little overkill for a home mechanic but... what the wife doesn't know...

 

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wGk-RD5cuSc&list=PL9DC2A0EF4BCCEF29

[zniper]

ok cool but is there such a difference if you compare Enduro bearings to any other ? worth spending the money ?

[Johan Bornman]

ok cool but is there such a difference if you compare Enduro bearings to any other ? worth spending the money ?

 

Bearing quality is difficult to assess if you're a layman in the game.

 

Enduro bearings are good quality bearings but the single biggest reason to buy them is because the company understands bicycles and thus stocks just about all the bearings required on bicycles. Technically SKF also does, but finding them at industrial bearing outlets is impossible. They're probably not even imported in the rarer sizes.

 

Rush Sports does an excellent job of stocking what our industry needs.

 

Enduro's standard bearings have just enough grease to not add too much rolling resistance to wheels - not that it really matters in the bigger scheme of things (rolling resistance is a tiny fraction of air drag, for instance) but, should your freehub bearings have too much grease, the freehub will still pull forward when you freewheel, causing the chain to bunch up and other bad things to happen.

 

Enduro has also optimized bearings for suspension use - check out the MAX series. Same size as an equivalently-coded wheel (LLB) bearing, but with more balls and more grease. High resistance, but better for suspension use.

 

Cartridge bearings, no matter what their quality, don't last long on bicycles. The seals are not protected as they should be by the hub manufacturers who should be adding one extra seal in the form of a labyrinth seal to the outside of each bearing. Further, bicycle wheels are not kind to deep groove ball bearings. A bearing, lets call it size X, in a bicycle wheel and one in a tool such as a bench grinder, will fail years and years and years before the one in the bench grinder fails. This is simply because it is easy to protect the grinder's bearing from water and, it experiences no lateral forces.

 

However, cartridge bearings are now the de-facto standard on bicycles because it is cheap to design components around them and if they fail, the component is still safe.

 

We hate them but have to live by them.

 

Removing and replacing them in wheels, freewheels and suspension components is one of the most important skills a DIY bike-fixer should learn.

Edited June 6, 2013 by Johan Bornman

[Dudes]

Bearing removal the inexpensive way.

 

You buy a rawl bolt from the hardware store for a few bucks. Tighten that into the bearing and then tap the bearing out from the back by tapping on the stuck rawl bolt. When the one is out then you do not need the rawl bolt to get the other side out as now the punch can reach the other side bearing (from the back). Quick and easy.

 

Then I got to the swing arm bearings. They also cannot be punched out from the back because there is no lip to work with. The ID of those bearings are smaller than the other pivot bearings (10 mm) and my rawl bolt described above is 12 mm. Also, it was weekend so the shops were closed to buy a smaller rawl bolt. Here I got a tip from a you tube clip. I took a 10 mm bolt and sliced a +- 5 mm slot vertically down the threaded side (opposite to the head side) with a hacksaw blade. You insert the bolt into the bearing you want removed and you then tap a screwdriver into the cut slot from the back, which expands the bolt like a rawl bolt so that it fits tight into the bearing. You then turn the bolt out using another nut added onto the bolt and a socket which can acomodate the outer diameter of the bearing. Also very simple and inexpensive. Took 5 minutes! If you need, I can paste a few photos.

[Tubehunter]

Cropped

 

Removing and replacing them in wheels, freewheels and suspension components is one of the most important skills a DIY bike-fixer should learn.

 

I have much to learn.....

[rouxtjie]

While on the topic of this....you would think its easy to find the bearing codes for popular hubs like hope pro II evos. After alot of reading this is what you will need for the hubs should you want to service them

 

Front

2 x 6804 bearings...one each side

 

Back

2 x 6802

2 x 6903

1 x 6902

[Mojoman]

Bearing removal the inexpensive way.

 

You buy a rawl bolt from the hardware store for a few bucks. Tighten that into the bearing and then tap the bearing out from the back by tapping on the stuck rawl bolt. When the one is out then you do not need the rawl bolt to get the other side out as now the punch can reach the other side bearing (from the back). Quick and easy.

 

Then I got to the swing arm bearings. They also cannot be punched out from the back because there is no lip to work with. The ID of those bearings are smaller than the other pivot bearings (10 mm) and my rawl bolt described above is 12 mm. Also, it was weekend so the shops were closed to buy a smaller rawl bolt. Here I got a tip from a you tube clip. I took a 10 mm bolt and sliced a +- 5 mm slot vertically down the threaded side (opposite to the head side) with a hacksaw blade. You insert the bolt into the bearing you want removed and you then tap a screwdriver into the cut slot from the back, which expands the bolt like a rawl bolt so that it fits tight into the bearing. You then turn the bolt out using another nut added onto the bolt and a socket which can acomodate the outer diameter of the bearing. Also very simple and inexpensive. Took 5 minutes! If you need, I can paste a few photos.

Please post some pics when you have a chance,

[Dudes]

The top puller is the Rawl bolt tightened to fit the 12 mm ID bearing. Tap out from the rear.

 

The lower contraption is the 10 mm bolt made to jam into 10 mm ID bearing by tapping a screwdriver into a cut slot on the bolt (if you look carefully, you may see the slot where the screw driver touches the bolt). The bearing is then pulled out by holding the end hex with a spanner and turning the other hex nut with a similar spanner, thus extracting the bearing into the socket. Any questions?

 

[Sniffie]

The top puller is the Rawl bolt tightened to fit the 12 mm ID bearing. Tap out from the rear.

 

The lower contraption is the 10 mm bolt made to jam into 10 mm ID bearing by tapping a screwdriver into a cut slot on the bolt (if you look carefully, you may see the slot where the screw driver touches the bolt). The bearing is then pulled out by holding the end hex with a spanner and turning the other hex nut with a similar spanner, thus extracting the bearing into the socket. Any questions?

 

Brilliant especially the screwdriver bolt bit! Now why didn't I think of that! Thanks Dudes.

[Johan Bornman]

The top puller is the Rawl bolt tightened to fit the 12 mm ID bearing. Tap out from the rear.

 

The lower contraption is the 10 mm bolt made to jam into 10 mm ID bearing by tapping a screwdriver into a cut slot on the bolt (if you look carefully, you may see the slot where the screw driver touches the bolt). The bearing is then pulled out by holding the end hex with a spanner and turning the other hex nut with a similar spanner, thus extracting the bearing into the socket. Any questions?

 

 

Pretty nifty

[Dusty]

Clever

[_im_from_earth]

The top puller is the Rawl bolt tightened to fit the 12 mm ID bearing. Tap out from the rear.

 

The lower contraption is the 10 mm bolt made to jam into 10 mm ID bearing by tapping a screwdriver into a cut slot on the bolt (if you look carefully, you may see the slot where the screw driver touches the bolt). The bearing is then pulled out by holding the end hex with a spanner and turning the other hex nut with a similar spanner, thus extracting the bearing into the socket. Any questions?

 

 

^^ PRICELESS ^^ Awesome post!