Flowta Posted July 10, 2013 Share Surely you need to make the alternate teeth thicker not grind them? All the teeth already fit the narrow sections of the chain. Not necessarily if it's for a 1/8" chain Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Showtime Posted July 10, 2013 Share Not necessarily if it's for a 1/8" chain Yes sorry I didn't think of that. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Iwan Kemp Posted July 11, 2013 Share LONG TERM REVIEW: SRAM XX1 1×11 MOUNTAIN BIKE DRIVETRAINhttp://www.bikerumor...ike-drivetrain/ "From a pure riding perspective, the XX1 has been flawless. The only downside is running out of gear (or having too much) when my days involved too many feet of elevation gain and loss. The only time that really actually mattered was during the TS Epic on a couple of the downhill fire road Enduro segments where I maxed out with a 32t but was wishing I had a 30t for the climbs. Other than that, smart selection of the two included chainrings means an entirely useable range of gearing with quickly swappable option for days away from normal trails. "I haven’t once missed my 2×10. I haven’t once thought “maybe I need a chainguide”. And not for one second have I thought about taking it off my bike." http://brimages.bikeboardmedia.netdna-cdn.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/07/SRAM-XX1-review-02-600x398.jpg Edited July 11, 2013 by The Crow Ryanpmb, Shangri la, Thinkbeeg and 1 other 4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
avatar Posted July 11, 2013 Share changed to 1x10 using wolf and extremely happy - no need for XX1 - overrated and overpriced - juts my opinion don't get angry 2k vs 12k ill take 2k What do you run on the front? chainring size and type of crank? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Iwan Kemp Posted July 11, 2013 Share What do you run on the front? chainring size and type of crank?I'm running 33T on a Race Face SixC with a 11/36 cassette Steven Knoetze (sk27) 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NotSoBigBen Posted July 11, 2013 Share I get all the 'overrated/overpriced' and other comments about going for a Heath Robinson 1*10/1*9 and keeping in mind I have done it myself BUT - the XX1 cassette with it's big ass 42 and for want of a better word small ass 10 gives a way better 'range' of gears than one ever get from the H.Robinson affairs as stated?- the easy to swop from 1 blade to another on the XX1 crank I assume means you can change it without removing the crank? As with most Shimano and other Sram cranks I have come across you would have to remove the crank to swop it? So it would seem there is clearly merit in the complete setup as opposed to just a Wolf chainring and clutch RD .... or I could just be way off and talking complete rubbish I built mine only to use as a training bike to reduce the clutter/maintenance and it is only ridden from home to the local 'XC' course at Rietvlei and back. I would never dream of using it on an 'outride' but as always that's just me. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Iwan Kemp Posted July 11, 2013 Share "SRAM are keen to point out that X01 is very much on a par with XT – this is the price point they’re aiming at for its release later this year. Cost savings are mostly concentrated on the cranks, which are alloy as opposed to carbon, the extensive and expensive cassette-building process remaining the same save for a slightly cheaper hard-anodised finish. There are slight changes to the materials used in the shifters, and the chain is the same as the one from the XX1 groupset." Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Heel Drop Posted July 11, 2013 Share What do you run on the front? chainring size and type of crank? 34 t front and 1134 back but will move to 1136 latercrank xt with hollowtec 2 BB - all works well Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Heel Drop Posted July 11, 2013 Share So it would seem there is clearly merit in the complete setup as opposed to just a Wolf chainring and clutch RD .... or I could just be way off and talking complete rubbish there is merrit but the price kicks the merrit out the door - :) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ryanpmb Posted July 11, 2013 Share changed to 1x10 using wolf and extremely happy - no need for XX1 - overrated and overpriced - juts my opinion don't get angry 2k vs 12k ill take 2kDetails of what you got for 2k please?... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
VicanZA Posted July 11, 2013 Share I get all the 'overrated/overpriced' and other comments about going for a Heath Robinson 1*10/1*9 and keeping in mind I have done it myself BUT - the XX1 cassette with it's big ass 42 and for want of a better word small ass 10 gives a way better 'range' of gears than one ever get from the H.Robinson affairs as stated?- the easy to swop from 1 blade to another on the XX1 crank I assume means you can change it without removing the crank? As with most Shimano and other Sram cranks I have come across you would have to remove the crank to swop it? So it would seem there is clearly merit in the complete setup as opposed to just a Wolf chainring and clutch RD .... or I could just be way off and talking complete rubbish I built mine only to use as a training bike to reduce the clutter/maintenance and it is only ridden from home to the local 'XC' course at Rietvlei and back. I would never dream of using it on an 'outride' but as always that's just me. Thinking of going xx1 or converting mine to 1x10, but it on the back burner gonna covert my 650b to single speed use that to train. U doing berg and bush Ben? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Iwan Kemp Posted July 12, 2013 Share Also got a Wolf 34 up front and an 11-36 on the rear. Works for me around the Western Cape. Next front chainring will be a 36 but need to build the legs up a bit more. My single speed is a 34-20 and I can get all round Tokai on that no problem. I think a 36 Wolf would be the best option for a front chainring. What I like about the 10-42 is you will have the same top end ratio with a 36 - 11 than you would with a 32 - 10. The major advantage is with a 32T XX1 you have two "extra" gears. (36 - 36 gives you you 1:1 which you will have 11 speed's 32-32, but then you still have the 36T and 42T cog.) In terms of granny 32-42 is very close to 28-36. BUT if you have a 10spd drivetrain already it is a good and cheap alternative to just go with the Wolf and work your way from there. I've been running 1x10 for over a year now and it has it's pros and cons. Edited July 12, 2013 by The Crow Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pipsqueak Posted July 12, 2013 Share Here's a real XX1 question that I can't find between the SRAM/Shimano war... Could I put a Wolf chainring on my SLX crank and buy a X01 setup at the back? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Captain Fastbastard Mayhem Posted July 12, 2013 Share Here's a real XX1 question that I can't find between the SRAM/Shimano war... Could I put a Wolf chainring on my SLX crank and buy a X01 setup at the back? Yes, but you'd only be saving R 200 or so on the new pricing of the WOLF chainrings, once they land. X01 is rumoured to be 104bcd which is the same as SHimano... Pipsqueak 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pipsqueak Posted July 12, 2013 Share What do you run on the front? chainring size and type of crank? Maybe I'm being doff, but what do you gain by running an XX1 ring on the front with your existing 10 spd cassette? Why don't you just use a single 10 spd ring in the front? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bat-ass Posted July 12, 2013 Share Maybe I'm being doff, but what do you gain by running an XX1 ring on the front with your existing 10 spd cassette? Why don't you just use a single 10 spd ring in the front? The taller teeth on the XX1 and wolf rings help prevent the chain jumping off the chainring. You have no front derailler to keep it on... These taller teeth and clutch rear derailler make it safe to run without a chain guide or front derailler. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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